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When is the EVAP Solenoid supposed to open, and is it intermittent? CEL code PO446

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EclipseTrbo420A

15+ Year Contributor
3,427
39
Jan 23, 2004
WhiteOak/PGH, Pennsylvania
Well the gods at autozone told me awhile back my gas cap was the culprit of a CEL I just cant lose. My spuid fault for believing them. Well I went back today and asked to run the diagnostic my self and I came back with P0446 Evap Purge Solenoid Circuit Malfunction.

Finally, narrowed it down to this thing! So the tests begin I took off the nasty connectors cut and spliced fresh connections...nothing changed.

I came in the house and bench tested it, open'd fine with power from my battery charger and sealed perfect while off. Then confused it worked, I tested the resistance like my manual said and it came back perfect needed to be between 35 and 44 and I made 38.2ish. So Does that mean the soleniod is good?

I put it on the car hooked it up and started it, went back under the hood and felt it for the rapid clicking people complain about, but I didnt get that It just clicked maybe 2 times a second like Click, Click Click, Click <--I know that means nothing unless you heard it.

So my other question is Should this be clicking unbelievebly fast like I read others are or should it be doing what I said? OR should it just open when the car is on and close when the car is off? I put a piece of vac line on it and sucked, it only let me pull in, in montion with the clicks...obviously doing its job. Anythoughts...this would be easier if I just came back out of spec or didnt even open at all, but it all checks out.

One more question...can I switch my EVAP and EGR solenoids just to test my theory? Essentialy they are the same thing and if the EGR Is working correctly the code should then change over for that if I can the EVAP one in its place. Thanks guys, sorry if that was alot.
 
My Chilton's shows a way to use battery voltage and a vacuum guage to test the solenoid. I don't know if it is a better way to determine the function compared to the test you already did but something to think about.

If you have a friend with a DSM it may be easier to just borrow his EVAP solenoid for an hour, hook it up, reset the ECU and see if that keeps the CEL from coming on.

BTW, I hate to say I told you so but..............:p (refer to post #6 in your original thread regarding this issue). Sorry, I just needed my daily affirmation :D .
 
My Chilton's shows a way to use battery voltage and a vacuum guage to test the solenoid. I don't know if it is a better way to determine the function compared to the test you already did but something to think about.

If you have a friend with a DSM it may be easier to just borrow his EVAP solenoid for an hour, hook it up, reset the ECU and see if that keeps the CEL from coming on.

BTW, I hate to say I told you so but..............:p (refer to post #6 in your original thread regarding this issue). Sorry, I just needed my daily affirmation :D .

Haha You > me

yea I was sucking on the solenoid nipple when I did the test LOL all came back as it should.... You wouldnt happen to want to see how your solenoid functions for me would you ? LIke the clicking and all that. I think im going to run out there and switch the EGR for the EVAP one and see if the code changes or stays the same.
 
Since the EGR and EVAP solenoids both have the same resistance when functioning properly switching them might just work (for test purposes).

If that doesn't help let me know and I'll check mine for you. Since I've never messed with mine I'm not sure exactly where it is at. I'm assuming it's on the firewall in the area of the EGR solenoid?
 
I tested my EGR and I got 73 resistance ?? But it wasnt at 68 degrees. Either way I just wired them up and am going to take a trip to get the code re read and see if its just my ECU dicking me around. and I just bought an eprom off of ebay too, why? I dont know LOL but the resale values are good, im not worried.

Thanks ill keep posting and other can chime in if they wish.
 
Here it is quickly UPDATE

I swapped the EGR solenoid with the EVAP since like stated above they have the same resistance. I was hoping the car would now throw an EGR code since the "bad" evap solenoid was now connected to the EGR BUT

It did not, I still threw a p0446 "evap code" even with the EGR solenoid in its place. SO that sucks. I read someone else had this problem with a 98 gsx ecu in a 97 i just didnt thingk anything of it.

WHats your all's take on this?
I hope this eprom works.
 
Update and Im about to run it off a cliff.

I orderd a 97 GSX ecu the exact one the car is supposed to have and damnit if if didnt throw the code again! I dont understand. Heres what I did so far

I swapped the solenoid-NO luck I switched to a 95 ecu and it didnt come on BUT the ecu was fried and the charging system didnt work so I could not trust that ECU...then got the 97 back hoping that the problem was the original ECU and the light is back on...

This is killing me I just want to get it inspected to sell already. If anyone has any ideas please let me know Thanks. - Matt
 
Did you ever get this code to go away. I have the same one. P0446.
 
You guys are failing to check one component in this situation. Vaccum to the fuel tank. If you have a rotten vacuum line OR bad seal on the fuel pump/most likely cause. If after running your car and you remove the gas cap and its not under pressure this will set a code. I.E the reason AZ told you that your gas cap was the issue. ( some code readers will say LARGE or SMALL evap emissions leak. Large usually is the gas cap small is usually the charcoal canister or vacuum lines to the tank leaking )
 
I know this is a old thread but I cant seem to get this code to go away either! This has been with the car since I did the 6bolt swap. THe car was a shell.

Any way I deleted the emissions so all that crap is gone. The line going to the tank is plugged. My seal for the fuel pump is good.

The gas cap is old as hell. I changed the soldenoid like four times. Im lost.
 
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