Jumped Ignition Wires, Now Car Idles at ~2-300 or Stalls

[Fitz7099]

I was in the process of installed a turbo timer on my 97 GSX. I had the steering column plastic cover pieces off and was testing the four ignition wires. I was laying on the driver side floor, looking up at the steering wheel column. I went to test one of the two visible ignition wires when i slipped. The needle of my voltage meter connect the two wires and I saw a spark arch; at the same time my interior lights died. I replaced the 10 fuse in the fusebox in the engine bay and the vanity lights worked agian. Woot!

But now there is another problem I gave up the turbo timer install, and decided to go for a quick spin around the neighborhood to make sure everything was a-ok with my car after the electrical mishap. I started the car (it was a cold start). The engine shot up to 1500, then slowly dropped to the 800rpm idle speed like usual. I got to a stop sign, and put the car in neutral to coast to a stop - the car went from 1000rpm and slowly dropped til it stalled.

On the way home I put it through 6000rpm in first and second - the boost held at 16psi (like it should with the mbc) and there was no drop off what so ever. I drove it home, and now the car doesn't want to idle at the 800 mark. Sometimes it will idle at 1000 but most of the time it will only idle at 200-300 rpm, if it doesnt stall.

I've tested the battery - off it runs at 12.5x volts and with the car running it runs at 14.x volts with everything on. I also disconnected the battery and cleaned the connectors but that did not help either.

Any ideas on what could be causing to problem? Or any thing that I should try? Before tonight the car had ZERO problems, and now it can barely idle.

Thanks
-John

 

[silver bullit]

Did you blow any fuses? I take it you did not unplug the bat. so check all your fusses and you charge fuse etc. It may have been possible that you have sent a electrical surge thru your entire electrical stuff and your batt needs to be replaced.

 

[Fitz7099]

Did you blow any fuses? I take it you did not unplug the bat. so check all your fusses and you charge fuse etc.

I didnt not unplug it because I needed to find which wire held 12v for the turbo timer.

I blew the fuse that powers the vanity lights (was red and had the number 10 on it) and replaced it. I check the fuses in the fusebox near the driver side door and checked the ones in the box under the hood as well, and didnt see any that were blown.

I did have one question though - how can you tell if a fuse, from the fusebox in the engine bay, is blown (the big black ones with 3 to 5 prongs)?


EDIT:

Also, the brake light has been coming on and off in the past 2 weeks. Fluid level is fine, but all four pads are shot, front rotors are warpped, and the rears look like the Alps. Other than that there have been no other lights. I'm not sure if that is useful or not, just throwing it out there.

 

[silver bullit]

I am not sure about the big ones other than if you can see that the element itself is broke.
Did you check the ones for the ones off the batt charging, fuel, etc and all the other ones in the engine.

 

[silver bullit]

EDIT:

Also, the brake light has been coming on and off in the past 2 weeks. Fluid level is fine, but all four pads are shot, front rotors are warpped, and the rears look like the Alps. Other than that there have been no other lights. I'm not sure if that is useful or not, just throwing it out there.

THAT IS WHY IT IS ON AND YOUR TELLING ME THIS WHY? IT IS TRYING TO TELL YOU THAT IT IS BROKE OR NEEDS FIXED. EXAMPLE: Your oil light does not come on because its lonely, it needs more oil or their is a malfunction.
Thats why its on if you dont fix it it may only result in more money being spent to be fixed or brake seizing.