Won't Start Plus A Couple Other ?'s

[luv2eclipse]

Ok I just got done doing my rebuild and I go to start my car and nothing. Just clicked. Got my starter rebuilt and it turns over now, but won't fire. It'll sputter every now and then but that's about it. Sputters for like a fraction of a second. I got compression, spark and fuel. I just added an aeromotive fuel pressure regulator during my build so maybe I'm not getting enough fuel pressure or too much.? I doubt that's the case. The last time this happened to me the exact same thing it turned out to be my coolant temp sensor. it came unplugged some how when i was working on something else. I replaced it anyways since i already got one. And it's plugged in now. My timing is on and everything.

Also my alternator drive belt slipped off, i put it back on and it slipped off again. I looked at it while I was putting it back on and my crank pulley is sticking in a little bit farther than my water pump and alternator pulley. on my crank i got my balance shaft pulley, that shim or whatever it is, timing belt pulley, that spacer and the crank belt pulley. so why is the crank pulley of then? my waterpump and alternator pulleys are both straight so i know it's not them.

 

[brodiedehass]

For the no start I would recommend checking that the CAS is not 180 degrees out ant that your timing marks all line up correctly.
My best suggestion on your alternator belt is that the water pump pulley is on back wards. For the alternator pulley I am not sure.

 

[robs90tsi]

For the no start I would recommend checking that the CAS is not 180 degrees out ant that your timing marks all line up correctly.
My best suggestion on your alternator belt is that the water pump pulley is on back wards. For the alternator pulley I am not sure.

It wouldnt be the CAS, he said he IS getting spark and fuel.

 

[luv2eclipse]

For the no start I would recommend checking that the CAS is not 180 degrees out ant that your timing marks all line up correctly.
My best suggestion on your alternator belt is that the water pump pulley is on back wards. For the alternator pulley I am not sure.

my water pump pulley is on right, so's my alternator one. but my crank pulley isn't lineing up. and my timing marks are all lined up correctly so should i try flipping the cas?

Also I got a blitz dual turbo timier and if i crank it for a second and stop it gives me .04-.16 if i keep cranking it nothing. so it's getting a little vacuum when i crank it.

 

[femmeDSM]

How are you verifying the presence of fuel?
The fact that you just installed an AFPR might be a clue. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up to the regulator? If so, what are your readings?
If not, you might want to hook up a gauge and get a good fuel pressure reading. Does the car start with starter fluid? That would be a "ghetto" way to isolate whether it is, in fact, a fuel related problem.

 

[lasertim]

It wouldnt be the CAS, he said he IS getting spark and fuel.

Yes, but is it sparking on the right stroke?

I would try rotating the CAS 180 too and see if that is it.

 

[luv2eclipse]

Yes, but is it sparking on the right stroke?

I would try rotating the CAS 180 too and see if that is it.

I tried flipping it and it's the same no matter what. I found out what one of the problems was and that was that i didn't have enough fuel pressure. i got 38 psi of fuel pressure now and when i turn it over instead of turning free it'll turn a couple then it'll like halt, like stop and then go again. like it's a dead battery. it's a brand new one and i did drain it so i put i on the charger for a good couple hours and it cranked longer before quitting but not alot. now with the right fuel pressure it'll sputter a little bit more and actually run for a second, then it'll die.

Also another problem is i'm not showing any oil pressure.when i pulled my motor i forgot to pull that oil switch wire, that's connected like it's a ground and pulled it out. i put a new connector on it and hooked it up but i'm not reading any pressure on my gauge in side the car. i can only see i bare wire with all the alternator wires so i'm guessing it has to be it because it's in the same wire loom as the oil pressure switch thing. the one that just slides on.

Also i still have not. figured out my belt problem. i'm not going to keep the car running i plan on shutting it off as soon as it starts.

 

[GTM]

It wouldnt be the CAS, he said he IS getting spark and fuel.

The CAS doesn't know it's backwards and will fire both spark and injectors 180 degrees out. Although I've never tested this theory I suspect the knock sensor is trying to compensate and gives up and lets go with a spark on occasion that causes to try only to reset it's self. Back in the days of distributors I've seen cars run for the caps leaked so bad they would fire 2 or more plugs. I actually had my own TR3 start and run with the cap off sitting to the side of the distributor.

My money is on the CAS and then ignition timing then valve timing.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[luv2eclipse]

The CAS doesn't know it's backwards and will fire both spark and injectors 180 degrees out. Although I've never tested this theory I suspect the knock sensor is trying to compensate and gives up and lets go with a spark on occasion that causes to try only to reset it's self. Back in the days of distributors I've seen cars run for the caps leaked so bad they would fire 2 or more plugs. I actually had my own TR3 start and run with the cap off sitting to the side of the distributor.

My money is on the CAS and then ignition timing then valve timing.

Cheers,
GTM

My knock sensor is brand new. i forgot to unhook it from the intake manifold and pulled the wire out of the sensor so i ordered a new one. it's hooked up. How can i check all the timing like that? logger or what ### i haven't hooked my logger up but i do have one so if anyone knows what i should be looking for i'll log it and tell you.