Could a BAD Clutch Master or Slave Cylinder keep the car from shifting

[dsm023]

Problem started about 2 weeks ago. Got in the car, started it and could NOT shift into gear. Tried again with the car in gear and it made a loud clunk, but now seem fine.

I have a Clutchmaster clutch and flywheel installed about 20k ago. Tonight while driving and accelerating the car seem to have symptoms of a slipping clutch and finally seemed like the clutch had slipped! Clutch pedal is in the normal position and master cylinder inside the car isn't leaking. Opened the reservoir and the fluid was pitch black with metallic in it.

With the car on and not on the clutch the car will not go into gear. Press the clutch and the car will go into gear. Release the clutch with car in gear and it doesn't jump forward or stall!

Any assistance would be appreicated...

 

[majik2k5]

Well I doubt it's the slave cylinder. When the slave cylinder goes out your clutch will stay depressed to the floor. It sounds like more of a clutch/TOB problem.

 

[prostreetdsmx1]

i agree with Majik. Doesn't hurt to check out your slave anyway. If anything we have seen many of the stock metal lines crack right before the slave. check around for something like that.

 

[flamingsqu1rr3l]

Umm,... it easily sounds like it could be a Master Cylinder. Also check for pivoting, and that the trans bolts are completely down to torque specs. If the clutch is not bled properly, it will be stiff, and very hard to shift, sometimes nearly impossible to shift or get it into gear at all, even when the car is off and the clutch isn't even depressed. Check to see if the MC is leaking at all, if you see a line, like an oil dribble down the plunger of it, going down your firewall, it is leaking. It could also be your slave cylinder also. MC = 60-80 Dollars, and SC around 30-50 dollars. It does not hurt to change these. If your TOB was bad, you would know it. You would notice it start to whine and get worse, like a crazy grinding. You need to make sure the whole line is not losing pressure, make sure there is no air in the system and that it is bled properly, i would start by replacing both the Master Cylinder, and the Slave Cylinder. Take care.

 

[Simpleman1]

Problem started about 2 weeks ago. Got in the car, started it and could NOT shift into gear. Tried again with the car in gear and it made a loud clunk, but now seem fine.

I have a Clutchmaster clutch and flywheel installed about 20k ago. Tonight while driving and accelerating the car seem to have symptoms of a slipping clutch and finally seemed like the clutch had slipped! Clutch pedal is in the normal position and master cylinder inside the car isn't leaking. Opened the reservoir and the fluid was pitch black with metallic in it.

With the car on and not on the clutch the car will not go into gear. Press the clutch and the car will go into gear. Release the clutch with car in gear and it doesn't jump forward or stall!

Any assistance would be appreicated...

Could this be a symptom of a crank walk?

 

[dsm-onster]

SHHHH!!! don't jinx him!!!

This is not really a symptom of crankwalk because he's mentoined slipping symptoms. It sounds like a broke clutch hub spring has gotten lodged somewhere in the clutch rotating assembly. or the hub has separated from the friction disk. Or just simply the clutch is fried.

I don't understand what everyone is saying about it being a cylinder or TOB issue. If anything goes in the lines or even at the fork, then the diaphragm will never DISENGAGE alowing the engine to free rev. But, that is what this guy is describing. . . Am I missing something?

You has something preventing your pressure plate from engaging or has a separated disk hub. Or you have a fried disk.

OR! your linkage is not shifting you into gear.