Car missing horribly, need help!

[Iroc_g]

OK, i have rea posts about similar problems for 6 hours now. This seems to be a common problem, but no one ever posts their solutions to the problem, so im gonna ask anyways.

I just got my car back from the local shop. They completed the wwiring repair in my 97 gsx which got a fully built 6-bolt swap. I barely was able to drive it the 1 mile to my work it ran so bad. While leaving the shop, it would continuly shut off. The mechanic tested the fuel pump and said it was bad, so we replaced it with annother Walbro 255. This changed little to nothing.

Here are the simptoms that i know for sure. It is missing, not sure what cyninders, but very obvious. My stock tach is very slugish, and dosen't look very accurate. The RPM readings on my AVCR are also all over the place. Car wants do die constantly, sometimes requires a little throttle to start.

Everything is new except the ignition components. Fuel pump, filter, rail, injectors, regulator.

My engine is new and not broken in yet. Im also not sure if there are no boost leaks or bad sensors. I know that these all seem to be common suggestions, but im 99% sure im looking at an ignition issue. Coil pack or transistors.

CEL is on, but says it is an evap code, due to lack of evap cylinoids. have not yet had a chance to fix this. Ive only had the car back for 2 days. Hell, its only ran for two days and ive owned it for 2 years!!! Please help.

 

[ddavisaf]

First thing's first. Run a boost leak test.
Next make sure you have the correct spark plugs.
Then ohm the plug wires and make sure they're in tolerance.
After that you should ohm the resistance on the primary and secondary coils in the coil pack.
If everything is good run a compression test and depending on the numbers we'll go from there.

 

[UNDER_PRESSURE]

First thing's first. Run a boost leak test.
Next make sure you have the correct spark plugs.
Then ohm the plug wires and make sure they're in tolerance.
After that you should ohm the resistance on the primary and secondary coils in the coil pack.
If everything is good run a compression test and depending on the numbers we'll go from there.

Couldn't have said it better myself. I'm leaning towards wrong spark plugs or a bad ground somewhere since you said the tach was kinda wierd. Check the grounds on the coil packs.

 

[DSM90AWD]

They completed the wwiring repair in my 97 gsx which got a fully built 6-bolt swap. I barely was able to drive it the 1 mile to my work it ran so bad. While leaving the shop, it would continuly shut off

To be clear, this is the first time you've driven it since the engine swap? Did the mechanic do all the proper wiring mods and/or is the CAS operable?

Definitely check the basics as listed above and check also the timing belt alignment/compression test engine

 

[steve]

What was the deal with your local shop? Were they just doing some wiring or the swap?

Steve

 

[sandman7000]

did you make sure all ## vacuum lines were hooked up and correctly? hook a shop manual and check the locations of the lines.

 

[Iroc_g]

OK. heres the scoop. Car had a 6 bolt in it running a AEM or some other stand alone. I bought the car completely stripped. The shop installed a new wiring harness and im 99% sure did all the propper wiring changes. They have done like 20 6-bolt swaps.

Plug wires are New taylor's, plugs are BPR7ES ngk's

Im am positive there is no compression problem. new engine built by my shop.

Yes, this was the first time i drove it.

I have yet to ohm test or boost leak anything yet. I loaned my chiltons to a friend and don't have the specs and proceedures at hand right now. I don't currently have a boost leak tester. I have trouble seeing this as the problem though due to the tack jumping and just the way it feels. Its deffinatly making boost because the few times it actually reved up to 4K rpm, the blow of valve was very crisp.

I borrowed a extra coil and transistor pack from that shop to swap in and see if it fixes it, but i wont be able to do this until FRIDAY!!! Does this seem like the first logical step other than the boost test i can't do yet?

 

[kelvinb]

If the mechanic shop has done the swap before, what have the previous customers cars turned out like? doing 20 and this happening seems fishy. Did the shop ever say anything about any problems? Did they start it up while you were there and made sure everything was good? Is the fpr stock?

 

[Iroc_g]

The two i have seen, yes, they ran very well. He actually told me about the problem. He too suggested ignition. I took the car because he had ran out of room in the shop, and my car had been there for a LONG time. I am mostly happy with their work.

Yes, the FPR is stock. I know this is going to be a problem. and it deffinatly will over run the fpr with this pump. But the tack being so erratic really make me think that this still isnt the problem. At least not right now.

 

[kellysmitsu93]

I had the same problem after rebuilding the top half of my 93 non-turbo and it ended up being the transistor. My tach was jumpy and revved really slow as well. I don't know that it will definitely fix your problem, but that is a really good place to check. Also it would help to see if you are completely losing spark on any certain cylinder. That might make it easier to track down.

 

[toofasteclipse]

Just a thought but check your plug wire placement to make sure they are in the proper firing order.

 

[Iroc_g]

GOT IT

The problem was 100% the transistor pack. Plugged in a new one ad perfect idle. cAR DESPERATLY NEEDS A TUNE NOW, BUT THATS WHERE IT SHOULD BE AT THIS POINT. tHANKS FOR ALL THE HELP!