Car WON't get into gear and nonstop grinds on attempt.

[AWDTalonDE]

After replacing the e-brake cables my dad noticed it was tough to get into gear on my 90 AWD TSI talon so he said we had to replace the clutch slave and master cylinders. After doing so the car can't be put in gear as it will just be a constant grind.

After searching I noticed alot of people had this problem do to not bleeding it properly but my dad said my clutch ( ACT 2600 with 5k miles on it) might be shot. He says the pressure plate or maybe the throwout bearing may be the problem. I don't see why this would randomly happen though and am assuming we just didn't bleed it properly.

The help I need is what you guys think the problem may be, what we should do to bleed it or adjust it properly , thanks.

BTW I got the speed control version of the cylinders, I have cruise control and assumed that's what it is, am I correct or did I order the wrong part? ( it fit fine)

 

[DSM MAN]

I would definetly say its from not bleeding it the right way. If you dont bleed your clutch right it will feel like crap. I dont know where the link is but what you have to do is put a little tube on the bleed nipple thing and put it into clean clutch fluid. So when you go to close it, it will suck up clean fluid and not air. Try that. Goodl luck.

 

[57TrimGST]

Here is a list of problems that would cause what you have encountered:

Here is a link for adjusting the clutch, And where the grabbing point is at:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/njdsm2/clutch.html

Here are all the symptoms that from cheapest to most expensive.

Cause Solution
Air or water in clutch hydraulic fluid Bleed clutch fluid and replace.
Master cylinder is leaking. Replace master cylinder.
Slave cylinder is leaking. Replace slave cylinder.
Clutch pedal rod is worn out. Replace rod.
Master cylinder pushrod is incorrectly adjusted. Readjust master cylinder rod.
Incorrect clutch pedal free play adjustment. Readjust clutch pedal free play.
Transmission is loose, resulting in movement when clutch is depressed. Tighten loose transmission bolt(s) by front engine mount.
Master cylinder rod too short for current clutch setup. Lengthen master cylinder rod.
Master cylinder worn out. Replace old master cylinder.
Slave cylinder worn out. Replace old slave cylinder.
Poor lubrication on clutch fork and/or pivot ball. Grease moving parts well.
Worn clutch fork pivot ball. Shim pivot with one or two 3/8" washers to regain missing travel.
Poor lubrication on pilot shaft or throwout bearing. Grease throwout bearing very well.
Worn or bent clutch release fork. Replace fork.
Worn clutch pivot ball. Replace ball.
Worn out or incorrectly installed clutch / flywheel. Replace clutch / flywheel with new clutch and flywheel machined to correct specifications.

 

[AWDTalonDE]

OK , so apparently my dad did all the adjustments but had to roll start the car in gear and said he thinks the clutch was sticking to something because it was parked for a couple weeks. Now when we drive it it is vibrating in 1st gear and sounds ok in other gears. Sometimes at idle with the clutch engaged you can hear the throwout bearing chirping. What now???

 

[UNDER_PRESSURE]

I would bleed the clutch system one more time to be on the safe side, as far as the throw out bearing squeeling you should have changed that out while you did the clutch. Now you might have to go abck in and change it out, when you do apply a little lube on it.

 

[MITZA]

I would bleed the clutch system one more time to be on the safe side, as far as the throw out bearing squeeling you should have changed that out while you did the clutch. Now you might have to go abck in and change it out, when you do apply a little lube on it.

If you change out the release bearing use a OEM Mitsu bearing when I installed my ACT clutches in the past I would get the OEM as they are reliable and will last. Just an opinion.

 

[AWDTalonDE]

how much in labor is it going to be to replace the throwout bearing?

 

[wret]

About the same as a clutch. Some have said they can do it a couple hours. I had a couple bolts that took me two hours. Eight is probably a better estimate for a novice (like me).

 

[AWDTalonDE]

oof. Anyone have any other ideas what it may be, it is intense vibration in gears and is really hard to shift. Sounds like somehow my clutch is sticking to something or something in my drivetrain is going out

 

[MITZA]

Here is a list of problems that would cause what you have encountered:

Here is a link for adjusting the clutch, And where the grabbing point is at:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/njdsm2/clutch.html

Here are all the symptoms that from cheapest to most expensive.

Cause Solution
Air or water in clutch hydraulic fluid Bleed clutch fluid and replace.
Master cylinder is leaking. Replace master cylinder.
Slave cylinder is leaking. Replace slave cylinder.
Clutch pedal rod is worn out. Replace rod.
Master cylinder pushrod is incorrectly adjusted. Readjust master cylinder rod.
Incorrect clutch pedal free play adjustment. Readjust clutch pedal free play.
Transmission is loose, resulting in movement when clutch is depressed. Tighten loose transmission bolt(s) by front engine mount.
Master cylinder rod too short for current clutch setup. Lengthen master cylinder rod.
Master cylinder worn out. Replace old master cylinder.
Slave cylinder worn out. Replace old slave cylinder.
Poor lubrication on clutch fork and/or pivot ball. Grease moving parts well.
Worn clutch fork pivot ball. Shim pivot with one or two 3/8" washers to regain missing travel.
Poor lubrication on pilot shaft or throwout bearing. Grease throwout bearing very well.
Worn or bent clutch release fork. Replace fork.
Worn clutch pivot ball. Replace ball.
Worn out or incorrectly installed clutch / flywheel. Replace clutch / flywheel with new clutch and flywheel machined to correct specifications.

Master cylinder is leaking. Replace master cylinder.
Slave cylinder is leaking. Replace slave cylinder.

Start with these two there the easiest to inspect this list above is Awsome.

 

[AWDTalonDE]

Already replaced both did all the bleeding and adjustments (according to my dad )

 

[G3ne]

I do have same issues.....
Car shifts in gears but grinds and no go at all :/
But does shifts in reverse and go...
All this week we had rain and was no chance to take a tranny out..
Ain't got garage :/
I do assume it maybe a fork....fellas what your point of view ?

 

[G3ne]

any ideas what was it ?

 

[underpressure25]

Ive done several 1g ACT kits and here is generaly the problem First the clutch should be bled good. Second you ushally need a longer pushrod in the slave cylinder, this can be made fron a hard peice f metal I used an old kohler valve that I got from a machine shop for free because it was old. Third check to make sure you dont have alot of free play with your cutch pedal assembly because in 1g cars they tend to strip and wear out and need to be welded or replaced.
Good Luck

 

[v2ner]

Check out the shift fork while your at it too. one side may have broken off. This will cause it to grind into every gear and it's usually exceptionally hard to go into reverse.

 

[98TRBOAWD]

i just had the exact same problem and mine turned out to be a broken shift fork