The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2G car just dies... please help

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

blkGSTspider

15+ Year Contributor
124
0
Jun 27, 2005
northridge, California
i have 99 eclipse gst.
i was going to go car wash and i started the engine, i notice strange shake when the car started and RPM was kanna ab normal.

when you start the engine, you RPM goes little up and down to idle. but my car, RPM goes up to about 700 slowly with shaking not smoothly. i just thought that i have change my starter soon cuz my starter is not in good condition. i started go and car was little shaking on first gear in parking lot. i pushed clutch to put in second gear and car died and i start the engine and died right away. i waited about a minute and i started car again and RPM went up and down between 400-700.

anyways i parked car and died again. and now i got check engine light is on. i reset the car by pulling off +wire from battery. i started the car again car looked normal again but it started with same shaking and abnormal RPM but the idle was fine. i tried to go again and car died and check engine light is on too.

the car was fine like 1 hour ago when i went out to buy something to eat, on the way home, where was some annoying car (tail gating) and i pushed car little hard. is this could cause the problem?

i went up to only about 6000RPM
is this could be the battery? my battery is not in good condition either but i don't think is the battery??

my BOV is not recircuitlated but never had problem like abnormal RPM or stall.

please give me some advise
thank you

hm, after 30 min i tried to go again and idle was fine, so i made to the parking lot exit and i push the gas to 3000 RPM on first gear and when turbo kicks in car shakes back and forth. i made U turn and i head to parking lot right before i enter the parking lot car stalled.

does bad ISC could make that back and forth shaking during the car is running?

now car stalls right after engine started. i don't see anything is disconnected.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Get the check engine light checked out. Have Autozone or some garage you may have your car towed to to scan your computer.

The CEL probably will tell you what area to look in.

Good Luck
 
Old Mitsu Tech said:
Get the check engine light checked out. Have Autozone or some garage you may have your car towed to to scan your computer.

The CEL probably will tell you what area to look in.

Good Luck
CEL is off now.... hm... i cant check...
 
ill bet my life the ecu is poopy. tear it out and look at the capacitors and see if theyre leaking. thi sis a common problem and produce the same symptoms your having.
 
overdoseheroin said:
ill bet my life the ecu is poopy. tear it out and look at the capacitors and see if theyre leaking. thi sis a common problem and produce the same symptoms your having.
so.. do you have any link that tells me where are capacitors?
if leaking, i have to replace ecu??
 
I would check ALL the vaccum lines and intercooler pipes. This is what happened to me when a shop forgot to reconnect the LICP. But for me this happened when i was driving... LOUD pop.. car dies and then when i start it it did the same crap as your car. If all is in tact it may be the caps on the ecu.

you can get a rebuild kit for an ecu but if i were you i would get an eprom ecu if thats the case
-Anton-
 
clipse0001 said:
I would check ALL the vaccum lines and intercooler pipes. This is what happened to me when a shop forgot to reconnect the LICP. But for me this happened when i was driving... LOUD pop.. car dies and then when i start it it did the same crap as your car. If all is in tact it may be the caps on the ecu.
nothing is disconnected...

clipse0001 said:
you can get a rebuild kit for an ecu but if i were you i would get an eprom ecu if thats the case
-Anton-
from here?
http://www.dsmlink.com/ordering.html
or is there any better place??
 
Last edited by a moderator:
overdoseheroin said:
ill bet my life the ecu is poopy. tear it out and look at the capacitors and see if theyre leaking. thi sis a common problem and produce the same symptoms your having.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

how do i know if capacitors are leaking or not??
thats my ecu...
 
how can i figure out if the ecu is bad for 2g or bad capacitors..
im have few problems and im guessing its because of bad ECU...

i just took out ECU.
is there any way to find out if there is something wrong in ECU by just looking at it?
please help
thank you
 
Look for signs of visible damage on the caps then if you dont see any get a multimeter from walmart and test them... im not sure how to test but I know that google will help you out on that
-Anton-
 
clipse0001 said:
Look for signs of visible damage on the caps then if you dont see any get a multimeter from walmart and test them... im not sure how to test but I know that google will help you out on that
-Anton-
i dont see any damages but i see some strage yellow thing..
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

it looks like its been melted and became solid...
like 2-3 month ago i tried to install battery stablizer and i put + and - reverse...
and the battery stablizer got burned... maybe that could damage the ECU???
 
2G ECUs aren't known for capacitor failure. That's primarily a 1G problem. The yellowish stuff you see on your PCB is normal, it's just places the board has heated up the conformal coating a little or there were bubbles in it when it was sprayed.
Now it's a possibility you did fry the ECU when you hooked the +/- terminals up backwards, but I would guess the problem lies elsewhere. If you'd fried the ECU like that then the car wouldn't even start.
I'm not too familiar with the 96-99 ECUs, so I can't really give you any advice on what to look for. But chances are if you'd fried it like that there would be a black spot on the board somewhere that looks burnt.
What happens if you pull the battery for 10 minutes and then try to start it?
 
Are you running rich? my car was acting similar turned out i had my coolant temp sensor come unplugged and my car thought it was cold and got to much fuel. Just check out all sensors, also as long as you don't clear your ecu it should store a codes as pending codes
my $.02
best of luck:talon:
 
If he pulls the battery off he still would not be able to tell since it takes time for the ecu to map the fuel trims so the car will ride like shit for like an hour
 
Try and get the check engine code ... the code will never go away no matter how many times you reset the ecu ... sounds like it might be a stuck open egr but cant be to sure ... try to get that code.

-Pat
 
thx for help guys...
it was camshift sensor....
i got the CEL and figured out....
but another problem came up :barf:
i can hear some metal is scratching at front driver side brake while going in freeways
REALLY LOUD and step on brake while im going reverse....
i post a new thread....
damn..
 
i have the exact same problem and it is the ecu.. i've looked in junk yards and can't find another replacement ecu.. any ideas on where to look.. i have a 95 gs 420a though
 
Last edited by a moderator:
daghstdrummer said:
i have the exact same problem and it is the ecu.. i've looked in junk yards and can't find another replacement ecu.. any ideas on where to look.. i have a 95 gs 420a though

EBAY
 
I had this problem this morning. My cars sitting my driveway. Let me know what you guys think it is I think its a common problem on 420A motors.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top