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Did my turbo bust one?

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Benag

15+ Year Contributor
51
0
Apr 13, 2005
Atlanta, Georgia
My car did boost fine despite the fact that it wouldn't boost past 14 psi. I though it was a boost leak (ordered some intake gaskets) but now I think the problem might have been the turbo. This is why:


  • For the longest time there has been a slight grinding noise when I boost when the car is cold (I suppose this is the wheel hitting the housing in the turbo). I never though much of it.
  • Then, a lot of thick white smoke when I'm under boost. This goes on about two days before it happens (which was last night).
  • Almost home and I decide to do a 0-60 run. About to shift to second when the car kicks back and I let off the gas. Then try to boost again but it won't go past 0 psi. Car still seems to run fine though, despite a shitload of smoke now.
  • This morning I took the plug off the compressor housing and oil drips out. Took off the intake pipe and oil is setting in the turbo inlet.
  • Shook the compressor wheel and it is really wobbly. Probably a half-inch of play.

Does this mean the turbo finally died? And is the turbo probably my only problem? Hope this isn't too much reading.
 
So is all the stuff I said probably all a result of the turbo dying? I guess I'll replace it with a 14B until I get the money to upgrade everything. How much trouble is it to put a 14B in?
 
not hard to put it in.. you'll probably end up needing to fix some e-mani studs.. and you'll need some adapting piping to go to your IC.. but other than that it wont be hard..
 
After having the same exact experience with the T25 dying and replacing it with a 14b, I can advise you to do the following:
1. Get a good 14b with little or no shaft play.
2. Get a good installation kit, such as the one RRE sells for the 16g (it works for the 14b perfectly).
3. Replace the mani-turbo stud with a bolt from the dealership.
4. Use anti-seize liberally.
5. Torque to factory specs.
6. Don't go crazy on boost.
7. Port the turbine housing inlet and wastegate area.
8. Follow the vfaq for the 16g install and porting.
9. Have fun with it. :)
 
MrBoxx said:
2. Get a good installation kit, such as the one RRE sells for the 16g (it works for the 14b perfectly).

Install kits are really a waste of 225$. if anything get this one which is a good amount cheaper...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203177

Their is enough info on what you need to install a 14b/16g style turbo on a 2G without an install kit, I will let you search :)
 
You know what? I seriously forgot to add that. I was thinking it the whole time I was writing my post because I know it always comes up and it slipped my mind. :coy:

So...
10. Some people have better luck piecing together their own installation kit. Do what works best for you.

Thanks for reminding me that there is more than one way to do certain things. :)
 
No problem, I just hate to see guys spend 225$ on something that can be done for much less then 100$. I think my install kit cost me like 35$? :) because i rebent the water lines myself, bought new crush washers, filed the oil return holes out a little bit, and bought a 7cm turbo-manifold gasket. It did take a little bit extra time but well worth it to save 200$.
 
I would say it was time for that turbo to go. I had the same problem the exhaust wheel of your turbo is broke off the shaft hence the smoke and alot of shaft play. Make sure you do the research befroe buying a new turbo there are alot of 16g's for the price of a 14b. If you are planning on keeping the car I would recommend getting a new turbo less trouble. Good Luck
 
If I put in a 16g would it be fine until I get all the mods (later) if I keep the boost down to like 15 pounds?
 
Benag said:
If I put in a 16g would it be fine until I get all the mods (later) if I keep the boost down to like 15 pounds?

To know for sure use your datalogger and watch for knock (timing being pulled).
 
Well I got the turbo out and here is what the compressor wheel looks like...:
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There is about a half inch or more of play in the compressor wheel. It is pretty much just a wobble. Oh yea, after I let the jacks down I noticed that I forgot something... It is what I drained my coolant in.
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That top picture looks so familiar. ROFL

Safety tip: If you get curious to see what the rest of the compressor wheel looks like and want to take the compressor housing off, be extremely careful removing the circular snap ring that holds it on. A: You'll need a large pair of circlip pliers (special tool for these rings) and B: This thing is STRONG, and if it breaks loose, it could probably fly up and injure someone. My uncle broke the tips of his pliers trying to get mine off. It was worth it though, just to see how much play there actually was in the bearings.
 
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