No Oil pressure.

[seth98es]

Well long story short, I spun a balance shaft bearing so I eliminated the balance shafts completly. When doing so, I just turned the factory bearings 180*. I used new gaskets for everything, oil sump, oil pump cover, crank seal, oil sprocket seal, oil filter housing gasket. But I have it all back together and I go to crank the car without fuel and the oil light does not go off. Yes there is oil in the motor haha.

Ive cranked it several times for 15-20seconds at a time. I took off the oil filter and there is no oil in it. Whate are some things that I could have screwed up during re-assembly? For all I know I had oil pressure before I spun the bearing. I only drove the car around the block with the spun bearing trying to figure out what it was.

Just trying to weigh my options whether I should buy a new motor or not

[Edit]
I forgot to mention, I drained my oil cooler and forgot to refill it. But that shouldnt matter correct? Just would take more cranks to fill it?

 

[seth98es]

Ahhh crap crap crap! Forgot to do this:
"Pack the gears and space in the rear cover with grease (this will prime the oilpump at startup - You can also use Vaseline, white grease, or moly lube. You basically want something thick enough to stay put until you turn the engine over for the first time to prime the pump.). "

Was right there in the Vfaq that I read too! This could no doubtly cause my no oil pressure as the oil pump isnt sealing enough to pull oil up the sump?

So is there a way to prime the pump without removing everything again?

 

[seth98es]

Ok through many pages of searching and several failled attempts at priming the pump. I finally found the solution. Use a garden spray filled with oil to spray up the oil switch hole untill oil comes out of the oil feed line. Did that and I got some oil pressure.

But when I started it up, it did not want to run well. I kept starting it up and it finally ran for awhile but felt like the throttle was stuck at 20% or so and couldnt get it to idle down. Also sounded like a lot of lifter tick going on, but just could be because it was cold(55*) and it hasnt been ran in a week or two.

So I pulled the plugs, they were nice and carbon fouled and did a compression test. 179 175 179 180 across. Now mind you this is on a JDM 6bolt with 4layer headgasket and ARP headstuds, the numbers were similar to the numbers I got a few months ago.

Could it just be that it need a few starts to get oil pressure 100% through the motor? Im not sure why my plugs were foulled, they were fine before I put it on jack stands.


[Edit]
Alright I pulled the top two plugs from the resistor pack(cyl 1 and 4) and the car started and sounded the same as it did when they were connected. I tried a set of old wires, but the same thing. Is it possible for only half of the coilpack to go bad?

 

[dmc67]

I dont know if only half a coil pack can go bad on a DSM but I do know for a fact that it will happen on a GM b/c it has happened to me. hope this helps

 

[wolf20043]

I dont know if only half a coil pack can go bad on a DSM but I do know for a fact that it will happen on a GM b/c it has happened to me. hope this helps

Yea.....only half can go bad. There are 2 seperate packs that make up the coil pack.
Mike

 

[ddavisaf]

Yup, primary and secondary coils on the coil pack.