Car stalling

[diab0liK]

Ok, here's a link to the initial problem:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=201016&highlight=lurching

Today I went to move the car, and it wouldn't idle at all for some reason.

I went ahead, and swapped the plugs, and voila, no more lurching problem, like I was having.

However it still won't idle for shit. I got it to stay around 500 rpm's once at a stop sign, but other than that, it's just not happening. Even rolling into the driveway at 25 mph when I take it out of gear, it's stalled before I've even stopped.

I'm wondering about the fuel pump, but I don't know....still seems like the fuel filter should be suspect in there, but I don't see why....

No leaking on the inlet side, and I checked as best I could without ripping everything out for leaks on the bottom, and I can't see any. I left the car running the other day, when it was idling fine, and still lurching, and when I moved it, no fuel spot, or anything like that.

I checked the PCV, still rattles, although I wonder if it's rattling enough, but even the guy @ the parts counter said it sounded fine, and you know they want to sell you one...

Anyway, suggestions anyone?

This is on a 420a NT 95 GS btw.

I'm getting desperate here...I've had my license suspended for the last 3 months, and just got it back yesterday, and got a friend to drive me all the way up north (4.5 hours) from where I live to pick the car up at my parents house, and now it's problems central over here.

 

[bstclum]

check the timing and maby the mafs ( mass air flow sensor) my car was duing the same and it was the mafs.

 

[diab0liK]

Well.

I started it up cold, and it wouldn't start until I gave it a little gas, but then it actually idled.

I then drove it down the street up to about 60 or so, and then when I slowed down and put in in neutral it died.

Also, the car has been sitting for a few months. I usually drove it like once or twice a week to the store and back, no problems, but now that I replaced the filter and whatnot, seems to have more problems than before...

I'll check the timing, but 420a's don't have a MAF, they have MAP...I'll check that out, though.

 

[diab0liK]

Well, I drove downstate, from traverse city, some lurching on the eway, but nothing too bad. Before I left, I filled up, and hit it with a bottle of injector cleaner, and now that I'm back down here, car seems much better on surface roads. I'm going to verify that it is better, and then I guess replace the injectors.

Good thing I'm broke as all hell

Oh, I also suspect it's running lean because I used half a tank, and managed 250 miles on it, which goes into the clogariffic injector theory.

 

[t0ny007]

Try raising your idle a little bit.

 

[diab0liK]

Well, the idling problem randomly vanished..not sure what the deal is/was.

The connection to the battery on the positive side isn't that amazing though...it's one of those shitty aluminum thin ass connectors though..probably replace that, but def. need to tighten it down...I was at a friends, and when I went to leave, it randomly wouldn't start...lights went off, and I'm like...wtf mang?

So I was about to jump it, and realized how loose the connection was, and then pushed it back down, and the car started fine.

Still lurching a tiny bit, but nowhere near like before, and because I put some fuel injector cleaner, I'm feeling more and more sure the injectors are a big part (if not THE) problem.

Now I have two new issues though.....

When I when to leave the aforementioned friends house, I got a CEL. I'll goto autozone tomorrow and have them pull the code.

Also, when I was up north, I opened the passenger side door, and when I went to close it, it wouldn't latch. For some reason I then locked the door, and it closed.

Now it won't open. Won't open if you turn the key, won't open if you press the auto locks, won't open if I turn the key while pulling on the passenger side lock....I have no idea what's going on, but I need to pull off the door panel, which seems difficult with the door on....so now I'm thinking I might have to pull off the entire dash, and even then, I'm not 100% sure the screws are acessible....fun. I'm going to try to open w/ a clotheshanger at some point, or a slim jim, if I can find one.


I'm still very suspect of the injectors, I might even pull one to see how it's looking.

Also, when I did the plugs, I had a little bit of oil on the plug on the far right cylinder. Yay.


Any ideas sincerely appreciated, this is supposed to be my DD beater until I get a new car next spring/summer, so I'm a bit desperate here, especially when my probation mandates I have a job. Soon. w00+.

 

[wallyman]

Check the ISC. It should be right under your throttle body. Your ISC is an electrical motor that controlled by your ECU and automatically adujusts your idel. They are pretty expensive from a dealer($275) but not to bad from a junkyard ($50). Im pretty sure that is your problem.

 

[dr1665]

Being 95, you can probably do the "keydance" to get a general code that will, more often than not, point you right to something common wrong with a particular system. I know 97s are the last year that is keydance enabled, but you might give it a shot with your sorta-OBD1-kinda-OBD2 1995 model.

I'm thinking injector related issues as well. If one is sticking open, you will get a shitty idle and have to give it enough gas (air) to get it to stay running. I've seen this happen firsthand. It's sort of like how aggressive cams will need to be leaned out at idle in order to prevent stalling due to the reduced vacuum levels they generate. If your car sat for a longer period of time with fuel filter issues, there is a chance you got some shit in an injector. It only takes one.

Some tricks to possibly confirm this theory:
-take a screwdriver (a mechanic's stethoscope is better) and listen to all four injectors while the engine is running. If one's not clicking, it's not doing anything.
-use a thermocouple to compare runner temps on the header once the car has been idling a couple minutes. A cylinder with a stuck-open injector will have a noticably cooler runner.

With these two tests, you should see both issues manifest themselves in the same cylinder; that is, if it doesn't seem like #3 is firing, chances are that the #3 runner will be cooler than the other three. It's something like 100* or so when we tested this.

Also, there may be no need to buy new injectors. Check your local listings for muscle car shops that specialize in tuned port injection (TPI). They typically offer injector cleaning services. I think it's $15/ea. at Arizona TPI as an example.

As for the door issue, well, no idea. Pull the interior door panel and fiddle around with the latch mechanism. Once you get it open, be sure to lube everything up with a quality grease or whatever they suggest on door latches.

 

[dr1665]

EDIT:
What the hell?

 

[dr1665]

EDIT:
Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, over.

 

[diab0liK]

I'll try checking out the injectors, and/or getting them cleaned...I had already thought of that.

As far as the door..yeah, I would pull the panel, but the screws are covered behind frame when it's closed, and I can't get it open..

I'm going to try and slim jim it open, but it feels like the outside handle isn't engaging anything, it's just like a free-pull.

If I can't slim jim it, I don't know. I need a new driver side panel anyway (it's not bad, but it would be nice..auto lock panel is kind of blown out, and it sits low, it's hard to explain, but basically the hole for the screw is gone, so I had to jb-weld it up....not pretty)

I might just have to sawzall the door panel open, and rock the no panel until I can find some new ones.

The sad part, is this was just supposed to be my winter beater until I got a 4g63 something next year (I'd really like to find a nice gvr4, but we'll see), so I hate to put a lot of money into it, but it's all I have for now, so I need it to be in functional condition.

diab0liK