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Blown turbo - excessive crankcase pressure

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TUI2I30

15+ Year Contributor
223
9
Aug 9, 2005
Frederick, Maryland
Hey guys me again. I got my new ECU and the car is now running on all 4. It runs smooth when I hold the throttle above idle and stumbles at idle, could be my injectors and no compensation. The SAFC is zeroed. I am also getting a TPS CEL. I am pretty sure the seals are bad on my turbo (dripping oil). I have shaft play side to side, and smoking at the tail pipe. My dipstick popped out while idling the car and slightly revving it. I did a compression test and read 139-130-140-140. I do not have my leakdown tool so I cannot do that test yet. :( This car is one thing after the other. I've some ideas on what to check next but I'd like your help as well. Thanks!
 
update: I've replaced the plugs gapped at .028 and PVC valve. The car seems to run better, but still has a rough idle. And the dipstick does not pop out. My car is automatic and the service manual calls for my fuel pressure to be at 41-46psi at idle with vacuum off and 33 with hose on. I am dead on 33 with hose on, and 40 with hose off. The SAFC is now 10% low - 80% high, everything else at zero. I am getting a ISC light on the logger, I'll be checking it tomorrow. So if the ISC checks out, I probably just need to adjust my SAFC. Any Thoughts?

NOW: I have smoke, it's white... I think. There is oil all over my o2 housing, coming out of the manifold at the turbo gasket/seal. My manifold smokes (from under) when the car warms up. If it is just my turbo this should be resolved when I replace it. The oil on the o2 housing and smoking from the bottom of the manifold is confusing me. It is also dripping of the low point of my downpipe right before the flex section. Any thoughts here as well?

Again, thanks! :thumb:
 
If oil is dripping out of your manifold then usually it points to bad valve seals.
To check and see if your turbo seal is bad pull off the lower intercooler pipe and see how much oil is in there.
Did you get the throttle position sensor fixed yet?
Your compression numbers are good.... enough.
121 psi is your service limit with no more than 14 psi difference between cylinders.
Keep an eye on your fluid levels. Make sure you're not running low on coolant or oil.
White smoke is coolant
Blue oil
Black fuel

Rough idle:
How long are you hold 20 psi on your boost leak test for at the turbo inlet? At the throttle body elbow?
Update us after you get the ISC fixed. :thumb:
 
well I say 'I think' on the smoke because there is not a lot of it coming from the tail pipe now, plus the car is running rich due to my injectors so it's mixed with raw fuel. I'm just glad it freakin runs at this point. I'll check the ISC and do the boot leak test tonight, I still need to build the tool. I recently pulled the LICP and there was a smidge of oil but this is when the car was only running on 2 cylinders. I'll check it again since the car actually runs now. I will replace the turbo and valve seals in the same job. I'm not pulling the head until I do my leakdown test though, the tool should be here today or tomorrow. I don't want to be guessing! I need to find the cause of the notch on my timing belt as well. I'm a hell of a lot closer though! Thanks man! I think I just need reassurance at this point! :thumb:
 
I've come to the realization that this car is a bonified piece of crap! The engine is weak, the turbo is blown, and the wiring harness is dry and brittle, everytime I look at a wire something else happens. I cleaned the oil off the manifold and temporarily stopped the smoking from it so I could get it to normal operating temp to do leakdown test. Looking deeper I am finding bare wires everywhere. I tested the ISC and it checked out folowing service manual, it is not tripping a light anymore since I reseated the connecter. I'm now throwing a CEL for TPS and Coolant Temp Sensor (the connector came off in my hand when I checked it, so I built a new one, still getting CEL and no change on logger). I tested the TPS and CTS by the service manual and they are both within spec and working. My datalogger is showing that the temp is -15 and the dash gauge is working (already replaced that connector). Smoking on the manifold came back duing warmup idle now the oil is only dripping off the downpipe, probably coming from the bottom of the manifold or turbo. All this, and it will still be an automatic.. yuck! I still did not get to do the leakdown or boostleak tests. There is no point until the electrical is straightened out. I think it may be time to turn this one into a doner car. Looking for another one now. :thumb:
 
I had similar problems with my harness. I went to the junk yard and starting cutting the harness up in a car there. Got every piece I needed and started replacing. Soldering it and convering with heat shrink tubing. Autos aren't to bad, gotta remember that you can mod them just as nice and make them just as fast. And the trans hold up a little better. How many miles on you DSM<
 
I had a similar thought of cutting and patching the current harness, but the wires are all dried out and brittle. I'm going to price out a new harness tomorrow from the dealer so I can start fresh and protect the wires for heat and drying out. Also the wires are so old that soldering and repairing them is only creating high resistance connections and cold solder joints. :notgood: The best thing I can do is pull it and replace it.
 
I got most of my issues straightend out. I replaced the coolant temp sensor and now I am getting an accurate reading. My throttle position sensor is reading between 9% and 10% at idle, if I put the pedal to the floor it reads 100%. I am still getting a TPS CEL though when idling. I'm going to replace the timing belt tomorrow and check the timing. It is still idling kinda rough, may be the injectors and only baseline compensation. Thanks.
 
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