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Stripped Valve Cover Bolts [Merged 5-8]

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NA4g63

Probationary Member
2
0
Nov 13, 2002
Hey guys, im new to this site but anywho...
Almost all the bolts holding my valve cover down were stripped, i dunno if any of you have this problem but what i did was get a 1/4" 20 thread tap, 6-3/4" 20 thread 1/4" diameter bolts, 8-" 20 thread 1/4" dia. bolts, 14 1/4" dia. washers.
Take the valve cover off and use the tap to make the holes a little larger. be damn careful not to get the little alluminum shavings in the engine.
 
Originally posted by alwaysworking
Just make sure they are snug, but not to tight. They will strip very easily.

If there were enough reasons to remove the cover on a frequent basis these would be good candidates for Keenserts(sp?) or Slimserts(sp?).

I use a 9.6v Makita Driver Drill on the lowest clutch setting and a modified X pattern.

I think Makita claims and I have used it for setting hundreds of #4 x 5/8" wood screws without stripping. I had some oil seepage so bumped it up to the next position but you can't lean on the trigger for it will act like a hammer. As soon as you hear the first ratchet let off the trigger.

I've used a 1 foot breaker bar and a fish scale tied to the end when making automatic transmission adjustments when caught without proper tools.

Cheers,
GTM
 
Ok i have done the dumbest thing i could have done so far on my talon. I painted my valve cover and while putting it back on i stripped the middle bolt hole on the back of the valve cover toward the intake mani. I can tighten the bolt to an extent then it goes back to being loose if i go too far. Hopefully it won't leak but is there anyway i could fix this? Or do i not need to even worry about it?
 
Hey all,
ive been reading up on changing the valve cover gaskets
i was gonna do it for my car 2(4g63), and i cant seem to find the order of how the bolts go back on.......can sumone help me? because dont you have to put them back on and torque them in stages? so it dosnt crack??? i found the order for the 420a easy enough but i cant seem to find the order for my valve cover? i dont wanna crack my valve cover:cry:
 
I started at the center & worked my way out - back & forth just like a Head Gasket - 2 ft lbs - took forever with a new gasket - the inners keep loosening up with the new squishy rubber - then you start all over but after a while it snugs up evenly - I had a new Valve cover - no cracks - no leaks - only use RTV at the half circles & edges of the cam areas per my manual... don't forget the spark plug donuts.
 
There's not really a specific order, because it's not being tightened down enough for it to matter. Center-to-outer is normal practice. The cracking comes from over-tightening, and at 2-ft/lbs it's very easy to do. Use a nutdriver with a screwdriver grip, and a light touch besides.
 
I want to find some stainless steel bolt for my valve cover. I also need the rubber washer things. Do you know where I can find these?
-Matt
 
The valve cover bolt threads on two of them are starting to strip.Should I use a tap and die or heli-coil.The others are fine,some idiot who owned it before me overtighten the two.Please Help!!!!!!!!:cry:
 
When I did this, I had to do ALL my outer bolts on the valve cover some moron over tightened them all and stripped them. I simply bought a 1/4" tap and drill bit combo and went to work and used new SS bolts to fit. SS bolts sure do looks good on a painted valve cover :thumb:
 
Originally posted by Defiant
Has anyone tried LocTite Thread Restorer on anything? Seems like if the stuff works, this would be a good place for it.

-I had tried the LocTite stuff prior of the Helicoil, it didn't work for me, the compound didn't grab on to the metal enough to allow me to tighten the bolt.
 
This is a possibly very stupid question however I need to know for sure. How many bolts are acutally holding the valve cover onto the head? i think I am missing some and want to make sure...
 
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