2G Car won't start ;-( Fast crank?

[POlarSource]

After replacing the head the car started fine. It sounded like it had something arcing and it also had a rough idle. It didn't have a problem staying running and we also didn't have a problem moving the car.

The next day we decided to try and locate the arcing problem. We turned off the lights when the car was on the lift as were unable to find the arcing. We took off the wiring the put some electrical tape over the parts that looked as if they had a problem. We hooked everything back up and thats when the trouble started.

The biggest symptom is when we start the car it has a fast crank. Like it is spinning the crank faster than it should. We made sure when we replaced the timing belt it was at TDC and everything was lined up perfectly.

Things are things we have checked out:

-Made sure fuel was getting to the fuel rail
-Made sure the injectors are ticking
-Replaced CAS
-Replaced ECU
-Took off anything we did to the electrical, rewired

We are getting spark to the plugs but one of the coils seems to be slower than the other and is not as powerful. We replaced that coil and it is doing the same thing.

Thank you for any input you can give. I have a show that my car has to be in on the 14th.

 

[94Jettameowpsst]

Did you make sure your plugs were tight....fast cranking usually indicates low compression or no compression.

 

[POlarSource]

But if it was running what could all of a sudden make it have little or no compression... But I do understand what you are saying.

 

[Defiant]

Jumped timing, bent valves.

 

[POlarSource]

Today we will check the plugs and make sure they are seated. Also, at TDC make sure everything is still lined up, then do a base timing.

 

[Defiant]

The plugs have nothing to do with it.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Jumped timing, bent valves.

Exactly, the timing was off, jumped or the belt broke.

Either way, the cyclinder bent the valves. Since the engine is not compressing the cylinders, there is no resistance and the starter can spin the crank with ease.

On another note, if you remove the plugs completely it will spin easily as well and have the same effect.

 

[Erics_silver2g]

I see where you guys are going with this timing being off and it bent the valves causing the engine to have no compression. Here are a couple of factors to thing about though.

1. The car has not moved more then 15 feet since it was running. It was running and we heard that arcing noise tyler was talking about. we backed the car out of the shop and then pushed it in the next day to check all the wires. The timing belt was on tight before we even started the car the first time, and basically when it was running it was only idling. It wasnt like we were driving it out on the road or getting up into higher rpms. Isnt it kind of hard to have a timing belt that was on tight jump a tooth with out being reved high at all?

2. We havent check the timing marks on the block yet to see if those are still lined up at TDC but we know that the cam gears do line up perfectly. If it was to jump a tooth wouldnt the cam gear marks be off aswell?

3. The car was running, we disconnnected the engine wiring harness and pluged everything back in and then it wouldnt start. Thats what leads me to beleive it would be something electrical. But agian I see your point of no compression would be the cause for fast crank.

Well I will try to think of anything else I can and post it up on here. Let me know if you guys are still thinking the same thing.

Also whats the easiest way to check if the valves are bent? please dont said take off the head.

Thanks,
Eric

 

[Defiant]

Isnt it kind of hard to have a timing belt that was on tight jump a tooth with out being reved high at all?

Startup is the most common time for timing to jump as the crank tries to take the resting slack out of the belt.

2. We havent check the timing marks on the block yet to see if those are still lined up at TDC but we know that the cam gears do line up perfectly. If it was to jump a tooth wouldnt the cam gear marks be off aswell?

Not if the crank sprocket jumped.

Also whats the easiest way to check if the valves are bent? please dont said take off the head.

Pull the cam cover and look for inconsistencies.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Also, normally if you bend the valves, the rockers should be able to come off simply by moving them with two fingers.

So pop the Valve Cover off, and give all the rockers a good push from the sides, if they just fall off those valves are bent. Thats not to say that if the rockers stay on, that they are not bent.

 

[POlarSource]

UPDATE:

So today I went and checked a couple things out. First of all we got it to TDC by manually moving the crank. It seemed that everything linked up except for the crank. It was about an inch off. I am assuming that is the problem. We are positive that it was right dead on when we put the timing belt on in the first place. So, it must have jumped like Defiant said.

I also took the valve cover off and the rockers were pretty solid. They didn't move when I tried pushing them back and forth.

We are going to remove the timing belt tomorrow, get the crank to where it should be, then put it back on making sure that everything is solid and where it should be.

Should we take off the head just to make sure that the valves aren't bent? Or just put the tbelt back on and see if all goes well.

I thank all of you for your input. This is a great community we got going here.

Tyler

 

[laserspeeddemon]

UPDATE:

So today I went and checked a couple things out. First of all we got it to TDC by manually moving the crank. It seemed that everything linked up except for the crank. It was about an inch off. I am assuming that is the problem. We are positive that it was right dead on when we put the timing belt on in the first place. So, it must have jumped like Defiant said.

I also took the valve cover off and the rockers were pretty solid. They didn't move when I tried pushing them back and forth.

We are going to remove the timing belt tomorrow, get the crank to where it should be, then put it back on making sure that everything is solid and where it should be.

Should we take off the head just to make sure that the valves aren't bent? Or just put the tbelt back on and see if all goes well.

I thank all of you for your input. This is a great community we got going here.

Tyler

The fast crank is a sympton of bent valves you should remove the head and have it rebuilt or rebuild it yourself.

 

[94Jettameowpsst]

Not all the time, i overheated my car and turns out that my fast crank is being caused by yet another blown head gasket :-/ woohoo

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Not all the time, i overheated my car and turns out that my fast crank is being caused by yet another blown head gasket :-/ woohoo

Thats true, regardless, he would still need to remove the head.

 

[POlarSource]

The automatic tensioner was broken...

Is there anywhere I could purchase one new for a reasonable price? No autoparts store around here has one, or the ability to order one.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

The automatic tensioner was broken...

Is there anywhere I could purchase one new for a reasonable price? No autoparts store around here has one, or the ability to order one.

Ok thats ###, any autostore should be able to order an OE replacement. Autozone, Advanced AutoParts, or Pepboys should all carry/order the item. You also have the option of ordering it.

If not.
Buschur T-Belt Kit ($200)
http://www.buschurracing.com/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?0X376545

DSMotorsports Tensioner only ($75)
http://www.diamondstarmotorsport.com/maintengine.shtml

2G 4G63 Timing Belt Tensioner only ($76)
http://www.machv.com/1gtibepa.html

sanrafaelmitsubishi ???
http://www.cars.com/sanrafaelmitsubishi/

slowboyracing Tensioner only ($76)
http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?sid=PHPSESSID=144e6bcbab563a0ee6b69b966cdd3731&cat=1054


and these are just the guys I'm SURE sells it. our other sponsors might sell it as well.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Oh and while you're at it, change the water pump ALL pulley's AND the Crank's front seal.