Mobil 1 Oil.Now I have knock or loud tick.HELP

[cramec2]

I don't know what the noise is.All I did was put in a 2.5 inch down pipe.Drove my car for 5 miles and my turbo blew (1000 miles on new turbo).So I replaced turbo with a new one from MJM Turbos.Changed the oil and filter.And now My engine has a knock.Same power as B4 but engine sounds loud.Is Mobil 1 10w30 no good for 2g mostly stock?Full syntitcic..

 

[mastadogg2]

Not at all, Its one of the most popular brands for our cars. You sure its a knock and not a loud tick? We do have lifter tick.. And if you cant pin-point where the sounds comming from push your clutch in and listen to see if it goes away, It could be comming from your transmission.

 

[cramec2]

I did not notice it b4 I lost my turbo.It is a loud tick.Does not seem like I lost any power.It quite at idle.When I work the gas slow the noise or tick becomes loud.I have a newly rebuilt head ,1000 miles.

 

[mastadogg2]

I did not notice it b4 I lost my turbo.It is a loud tick.Does not seem like I lost any power.It quite at idle.When I work the gas slow the noise or tick becomes loud.I have a newly rebuilt head ,1000 miles.

do you know what a bad exhaust leak sounds like? thats what it sounds like you have, check your o2 housing to downpipe bolts they tend to wobble loose. does it go away once the car warms up?

 

[cramec2]

No noise when cold just as it warms up.I just put the new turbo in.It now has like 5 miles on it.O2 houseing should not have become loose..Not yet atleast..No noise at idle just when it is hot at above 2k.

 

[mastadogg2]

Try to pinpoint where the ticks comming from

 

[joeym4130]

Try to pinpoint where the ticks comming from

listen to him ^^

Get a stethoscope if needed, to find the location, hard to diagnose the problem before you know exactly where it is coming from.

 

[cramec2]

Ok I put a gun opps I mean a scewdriver to my ear.Sound like it is coming from valve cover area.I pulled cover.All seems tight in there.

 

[mastadogg2]

wow talk about throwing money away pulling the valve cover for no reason, dont you realize your gonna need about $60 in parts now just to put it back on without it leaking

 

[c5chris]

A can of RESTORE will help.

You can also try Mobil 1 5W/30 Full synthetic (blue cap). Mine dont get lifter tick with it but always have it with the 10W/30.

 

[cramec2]

Got bigger problems I think.Took it for a longer ride today.Now motor sounds like something is loose in the top end.May be a valve job gone bad..I don't know

 

[wolf20043]

Not sure if itr helps any, But Julia and I had a tick we could not get rid of. At first I thought lifters,balance shafts , and valves. on sat I was tearing down the old block I took out and found out it was actually the push rod bearings wore out.......had a chitload of play causing the "tick" we had.
Mike

 

[Froyd79]

possibly an oil starvation problem. With the turbo going and now the cams are probably chewing into the caps. Do you have a balance shaft eliminator?

 

[cramec2]

No balance shaft eliminator.Belt broke and when I told the guy that was helping me he said just leave the belt off.Today I did a compresion test and got about 180 across the 4.I did pull the fuse out to my pump also while testing. If I did not use the kit what would happen?

 

[BISHILVR]

Wolf20043, our cars dont have pushrods .
Cramec2, if you did'nt use an eliminator kit you should have engine vibrations like a mofo. That is if all that you did was pull the front b/s belt off. The problem is that you leave the rear shaft in and still spinning, maybe the rear shaft ate some bearings???

 

[CorrupTTalon]

ok im sure my experiences are going to help you because over the past month ive done nothing but fix knock noises from my car, and ive developed Two different but same sounded knocks and have fixed both!

knock number one:

my balance shafts, some how my front balance shaft bearing worked its way out to the oil pan and the front shaft was knocking against my block. knowing how hard it is to pinpoint a noise in your engine i thought it was for sure in my valve cover area! i was even about to pull my cams and check each lifter!... what a waste of time that would have been.. this knock gradually got worse, as the engine got warmer and as things expanded.

Knock number two:

this is the most recent knock, i broke two rod bearings and spun one leaving me with two good bearings, cylinders 1 and 2. im replacing all four as they new bearings are in the mail as we speak. this particular knock did not show up at idle but around 2k+ RPM's rather.

both these knocks restricted me from accellerating past ~4Krpm.

other possible knocks:

there are many things that can cause knock, even preignition or detonation. but you wouldnt have that unless youre overheating. i would start with checking your timing. start with using a timing light, then do a compression test, then make sure youre on TDC(top dead center) and that all your points line up. you may have to spin the crank up to 6times to get all the points to line up cause of the oil pump gear ratio. if thats good then pull the oil pan and check for metal debre. move your rods around looking forplay, then check your balance shafts for play.

and about the turbo, did you prime it? if not the life of it was greatly diminished.. suprised it made it to 1000k miles if you didnt

i have videos of my knocks and pics up the butt so if you need more just post

 

[CorrupTTalon]

here are the videos so you can compare, hope they still work:

knock
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183838


then to buzzing

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=184105


i dont have a vid of the rod knock but it was about the same but only when reved..

 

[cramec2]

I am going to drop my oil pan and take a look see..Do I need to remove my down pipe?

 

[CorrupTTalon]

I am going to drop my oil pan and take a look see..Do I need to remove my down pipe?

yes you need to remove the downpipe.. you need to drop the pan far enough to let the pick up free.. you undo the part at the turbo and let it hang, no need to pull the whole downpipe.

 

[cramec2]

Ok update..Spun bearing on #2 rod bearing..Theres my knock.Now.Do I just replace bearings and drive or is there a new motor in my near future?

 

[CorrupTTalon]

Ok update..Spun bearing on #2 rod bearing..Theres my knock.Now.Do I just replace bearings and drive or is there a new motor in my near future?

im in the same position man, how many miles are on your engine?

anways, my brearings are in the mail. i have a MIC reader that reads up to 4decimal places. when the bearings come in ill be measuring the spun section of the crank and comparing it to the others. it should be good to go but i hear that the cranks have a hardend layer and im thinkin if worn the integrity will of course be diminished.

the right way to do this would be to swap out the crank and rod #2 pluss a fresh set of new rod bearings and crank bearings. its actually not that much money to do.. all though i havent found a crank yet nor a price.. and i know that pulling the crank involves A LOT of work. the removal of the transmission, oil pump, timing belt.. etc..

to tell you my goal. my engine is obviously going to shit cause the previous owner drove it hard, so i will be rebuilding it in the near future.. im gonna get by with replacing the bearings as the shaft cant be worn that much and rebuild later, unless i find a crank.

anyone here will tell you to replace the crank.

 

[wolf20043]

Wolf20043, our cars dont have pushrods .
Cramec2, if you did'nt use an eliminator kit you should have engine vibrations like a mofo. That is if all that you did was pull the front b/s belt off. The problem is that you leave the rear shaft in and still spinning, maybe the rear shaft ate some bearings???

Excuse Me.....Piston Rods

 

[wolf20043]

ok im sure my experiences are going to help you because over the past month ive done nothing but fix knock noises from my car, and ive developed Two different but same sounded knocks and have fixed both!

knock number one:

my balance shafts, some how my front balance shaft bearing worked its way out to the oil pan and the front shaft was knocking against my block. knowing how hard it is to pinpoint a noise in your engine i thought it was for sure in my valve cover area! i was even about to pull my cams and check each lifter!... what a waste of time that would have been.. this knock gradually got worse, as the engine got warmer and as things expanded.

Knock number two:

this is the most recent knock, i broke two rod bearings and spun one leaving me with two good bearings, cylinders 1 and 2. im replacing all four as they new bearings are in the mail as we speak. this particular knock did not show up at idle but around 2k+ RPM's rather.

both these knocks restricted me from accellerating past ~4Krpm.

other possible knocks:

there are many things that can cause knock, even preignition or detonation. but you wouldnt have that unless youre overheating. i would start with checking your timing. start with using a timing light, then do a compression test, then make sure youre on TDC(top dead center) and that all your points line up. you may have to spin the crank up to 6times to get all the points to line up cause of the oil pump gear ratio. if thats good then pull the oil pan and check for metal debre. move your rods around looking forplay, then check your balance shafts for play.

and about the turbo, did you prime it? if not the life of it was greatly diminished.. suprised it made it to 1000k miles if you didnt

i have videos of my knocks and pics up the butt so if you need more just post

Exactly the process oif elimination I used....and all problems.
Mike

 

[tsi4ya]

umm try lucus oil sed it helped my car maybe it will help yours.

 

[cramec2]

Ok replaced rod bearing on all four.Only one spun.No more noise.Let see if that will get me to fall or winter.Need a short block for 2g anyone anyone!!!!!?