bad problems driving after rebuild

[mysticfire6602]

so today was the first time i attempted to drive my car today after rebuilding the engine. it doesnt idle for crap, it wont accelerate at all that good, the speedometer doesnt woprk, it has a really really loud clicking noise all the time, it feels like the clutch is slipping (could just be me though), stalls when it gets below 1000 rpm, bogs down when trying to go up a hill, doesnt even want to accelerate after 2nd gear. this is royally pissing me off, my teacher isnpected everything i did so its all good. could it possibly be my ecu? if so, how much would mitsu charge me for one, because i only have like $80 left over and i cant really afford anything for at least another month.

 

[BISHILVR]

Could you do a compression test and let us know the results???, that would make it easier for us to diagnose.

 

[green machine]

well a ticking noise means that you spun a rod......and maybe you have a small boost leak,and that's why its not accelerate.but a compression check would help.

 

[mysticfire6602]

well a ticking noise means that you spun a rod......and maybe you have a small boost leak,and that's why its not accelerate.but a compression check would help.

i spun a rod WTF but i used brand new clevite bearings how on earth would that happen

 

[hewhoisknot]

no boost leak cause ur non turbo right? well check the compression and acceleration might have something to do with ur throttle cable.. so check the tension on that... did u mess with the tb at all when u had the motor out?
BUN

 

[mysticfire6602]

no boost leak cause ur non turbo right? well check the compression and acceleration might have something to do with ur throttle cable.. so check the tension on that... did u mess with the tb at all when u had the motor out?
BUN

non turbo. ill check the compression in a half hour. when the engine was out i unbolted the tb from the intake, but i cant rememebr what i did after that.

 

[blackGSX2g]

Check the plugs and wires and double check that you are getting spark and fuel in all 4 cylinders after your compression test.

 

[huafist]

i spun a rod WTF but i used brand new clevite bearings how on earth would that happen

Depends on the ticking noise - it could be something as innocent as lifter tick. Just to be on the safe side though, I'd drop the oil pan and inspect the rod bearings.
If you used standard size bearings on a polished/turned crank they'd spin right off the press because of excessive clearance. You did check all of your clearances when you put the motor together, didn't you?

 

[mysticfire6602]

Depends on the ticking noise - it could be something as innocent as lifter tick. Just to be on the safe side though, I'd drop the oil pan and inspect the rod bearings.
If you used standard size bearings on a polished/turned crank they'd spin right off the press because of excessive clearance. You did check all of your clearances when you put the motor together, didn't you?

i used standard size bearings, and i polished the crank with special paper and crocus cloth (sp?) i plastigauged everything and all was within specs. if it was lifter tick shouldnt it have gone away by now? i know our cars tick, but not nearly as loud as mine is right now, and it does it while driving too. speaking of driving today, for some reason i couldnt find mt tools to do a compresison check, so that will wait until i can find them, but i thought i might try to drive it around again for like 1 minute around the parking lot, and it bogged down really bad and wouldnt accelerate in 3rd or up, and wouldnt go past 3k rpm. when i hooked up the snap-on scanner to check the TPS voltage (to fix my idle problem) it was reading .313 volts, which is way off. so i adjusted that until i got .5 volts and it idles a little better, but not much, at WOT it reads 4.9 volts, so thats good. i am using 10w-30 oil right now, could that possibly be a factor in the ticking? should i go with 5w-30 for a tiny bit to see if it helps? and also, what are the odds that it is the computer?

 

[mysticfire6602]

compression test results:

1 - dry 175, wet 175
2 - dry 120, wet 120
3 - dry 80, wet 90
4 - dry 115, wet 115

 

[DSMTalonAWD51]

you have a huge problem there. 175 and 80??

 

[oldman]

Check timing marks and probably time for a leak down test.

 

[mysticfire6602]

Check timing marks and probably time for a leak down test.

i did check the timing marks today, 100% ok. so how do i perform a leak down test? i have new valve seals, grinded and lapped the valves, new rings, i cant figure out why my compression is so low on that one cylinder. oh, my battery is complete junk too, so when i get paid again i will replace my battery, maybe it wasnt making enough juice to make a clean enough spark.

 

[oldman]

so how do i perform a leak down test?

http://www.dsmgrrrl.com/FAQs/leakdown.htm

oh, my battery is complete junk too, so when i get paid again i will replace my battery, maybe it wasnt making enough juice to make a clean enough spark

You can repeat the test while jumping with another car. However I don't think it's the cause of your inconsistent compression numbers between different cylinders.

 

[TurkF26]

bogging sounds like either fuel related, or spark related. are the injectors all good?

check EVERY sensor connector to make sure its plugged in right and attached all good.

 

[mysticfire6602]

i quadruple checked all electrical connections. so how do you want me to check my injectors? im not sure how to do that. and how should i check the spark? i had a spark plug hooked up to all of my plug wires and they were sparking pretty good. my snapon scanner also said my ignition timing was all over the place when i was revving in neutral. idle it was at like 12 BTDC and at around 3000 rpm it was around 36 BTDC. im thinking my problems are related to that horrific clicking noise, but i cant figure out what it is, im sure its not my lifters, since they would have had to fill up by now. its not my tension pully arm bouncing off of my auto tensioner. it cant be piston slap, and it cant be the valves hitting the pistons, all my timing marks are right on the money.

 

[blackGSX2g]

Unplugged sensors or fuel/spark issues would be irrelevant in diagnosing low and uneven compression. IMO you found the problem, now figure out why it is a problem and you should be in business. Perform the leakdown test as Oldman suggested and hope its just a headgasket/head problem.

 

[TurkF26]

take the injectors out and look at the little pin. its its pushed in too far or damaged you need new ones. they coudl also look good but still might be bad.

if it says your ignition timing is off, id say try and get new coilpack to see if that fixes it, you can also unplug your fuel pump, take a spark plug out, connect it like it would be in the car, and hold it to the chassis. have someone crank the motor and watch to see if it sparks.

i also hook up a timing light and look into the timing light when its hooked up to see if the light misses at all. if it does then it is defintely either spark issue or timing issue,

 

[mysticfire6602]

take the injectors out and look at the little pin. its its pushed in too far or damaged you need new ones. they coudl also look good but still might be bad.

if it says your ignition timing is off, id say try and get new coilpack to see if that fixes it, you can also unplug your fuel pump, take a spark plug out, connect it like it would be in the car, and hold it to the chassis. have someone crank the motor and watch to see if it sparks.

i also hook up a timing light and look into the timing light when its hooked up to see if the light misses at all. if it does then it is defintely either spark issue or timing issue,

thats how i checked the spark, i had the saprkplugs out and cranked. and when i had the timing light hooked up it never skipped, but no matter how much i tried to retard the timing by adjusting the CAS, it was still too far off.