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New Bearings, Rings, Hone, Headgasket and now car wont start now with pics

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IWANTSPEED90DSM

20+ Year Contributor
83
0
Jul 27, 2002
It has fuel, it has compression, although low (I believe the new rings have to seat) and it has spark...

Mechanic double checked the timing, and im at a loss. The car started and ran before we tore the motor down. I guess it could be anything, i know it's vauge, but has anyone had this problem before?
 
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IWANTSPEED90DSM said:
It has fuel, it has compression, although low (I believe the new rings have to seat) and it has spark...

Did you check for spark on ALL cyl? Check ur ECU too for stinks and leaks.


:thumb:
Shauna
Click to expand...
 
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well since you had the same problem as i had and i fixed it today, i will post what i did.

i took out the ecu to see if the caps leaked, and they did not. so i put it back in and then i took out the spark plugs and sand plasted them so they were clean again. then i squirted about 4 squirts of oil into each cylinder from a squirt can, installed the spark plugs and tried starting it and it started. i guess all i needed was some oil in the cylinders.
 
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okay, I got it running, we replaced the MPI fuse, and changed the plugs BUT

:mad: :mad: :mad:

the car BARELY BARELY runs... we're talking -4 PSI OF VACUUM!!?!?! wtf

took it for a drive, and once it's running it actually pulls quite well. Could it be the timing? Or a vacuum leak somewhere? (although, I did check for leaks, they weren't audible or visable)

AND on top of that, the car vibrates like crazy. The only thing I can think of off the top of my head is the coilpack.
 
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hmm, double check your compression. when i got my car running it barely ran, so we adjusted the 2 bolts that keep the throttle linkage in place so that the car would stay at 1500 rpm, and we let it sity like that for about 10 minutes. after that the car was fine.
 
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IWANTSPEED90DSM said:
okay, I got it running, we replaced the MPI fuse, and changed the plugs BUT the car BARELY BARELY runs... we're talking -4 PSI OF VACUUM! AND on top of that, the car vibrates like crazy.
Click to expand...

Your vacuum should be around 19 in hg. Not sure if you used the wrong units but if it's really -4 PSI that would be 8.1 in hg. That's really low. What's your compression.

Vibration, first make sure the engine is running on all four cylinders. If it is then you need to check your valve timing again and make sure you have all the balance shafts in phase with the crank and cams. It's not uncommon for people to forget that the oil pump sprocket can lineup with the timing mark and have the balance shft attached to it be out of phase. Your cam timing being off can also cause low vacuum.

Steve
 
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I also noticed something else, the fuel pressure regulator isn't connected (via vacuum hose) to the proper vacuum source (fuel pressure solenoid), it's connected to the one furthest to the right on the firewall. (purge solenoid?!?!?)

would that cause it to run rich? because the sparkplugs are just COVERED in fuel.
 
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Just did a compression test...

160 60 100 110 I dont know the rings are fine, adding oil wont do anything, Im assuming it's either the valves (although the shop said they were FINE) or a cracked head. Could a cracked head be invisible to the naked eye? perhaps between the valves or something?

And DESPITE the low compression, shouldnt the car STILL run fine? just be slow or something?

Here are some random engine bay pics see if you guys can see anything that stands out as being wrong. I dont know :notgood:

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And whats up with this? Why are the plugs so White (crappy pic, I know, but they're all so white. Lean. It has a 255LPH Walbro :(

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that 60 isnt that good at all. you put oil in the cylinder and it didnt do anything? how long did you run the car for, i dont think youve worn in your rings yet fully. and im pretty sure that a plug burning white is normal.
 
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mysticfire6602 said:
That 60 isnt that good at all.
I'm pretty sure that a plug burning white is normal.
Click to expand...
He's got one good cyl out of four.
Since the oil didn't help I think you need to look closer at the head. A leakdown test would be next to figure out why your compression is so off.

My plugs before I switched to 7ES's where always white. They seem to run hot and burn off all the deposits rather than being abnormally lean. Don't forget that a good portion of the time the engine is running closed loop at 14.7:1 AF. So, unless you make a hard pull and turn the engine off at the end your not going to get much mixture information looking at a plug in a FI car.

Steve
 
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im starting to think it could be the fuel pump causing the poor running... the compression is like head related, but even with 60 PSI in 1 cylinder it should run.

right?
 
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A 60 psi cylinder will NOT run, so that is going to be one dead hole right there. I would say definately pull the head, you might have some bent valves. :dsm:
 
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mysticfire6602 said:
yes, even with 60 psi it should still run ok
Click to expand...
The minimum spec according to the factory is 114 psi with a max difference between cylinders of 14 psi.

Sure I've see 4G63's run on 2 cylinders but there is something seriously wrong with this engine and it's not going to run ok, in fact it doesn't run ok and won't run ok until he identifies the cause of the low compression and fixes it. I doubt it's fuel pump related, but you can check the fuel pressure and pull the return line to see how much fuel is getter returned to the tank while the rail is at pressure. That will give you a first order idea of the health of the pump.

Steve
 
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