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Resolved 1G Car Cranks, has fuel, has spark, has timing belt, won't turn over for more than 1sec

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Jackson

20+ Year Contributor
98
1
Jan 10, 2003
Okay, here is my specific problem. My car cranks but won't turn over. My battery is kinda pooched, but I charge it up and I get about 4 good tries before it's dead (I have a volt meter hooked up).

Is this the problem due to a dead alternator killing my battery in the process? I am running a VERY demanding system (800 RMS @ 4 ohms + ps2 and screens) or could this be something else?

Yet even after a good charging, my car just won't start. o2 sensor other than that its kinda old. My AEM reads the TPS fine so I know that one is good. Any ideas? Cause it will randomly start from time to time with the stock ECU. ( very spuratically)
 
Solution
This thread will now be ended. I have FINALLY got the car to turn over. Now here is the list of what I replaced:

Replaced the ECU with and AEM EMS
Replaced the MPI Relay
Replaced the Fuel Filter
Replaced Idle Switch
Replaced Sanity
Replaced Coolant Temperature Sensor

The final thing I replaced was the fuel filter. Though the MPI relay made the car turn over better, it just didn't idle due to a lack of fuel. Once I got the filter replaced, it idled up great. Now to get the car back into once piece after sitting for 6 college months.

Thank you again everyone for all the help.
Not the o2 sensor, it's not used during open loop, only during closed loop.
 
Check the MPI fuse. Its located on the group of 3 fuses on your positive battery terminal. It might be blown. Also you might want to look into your fuel filter.
 
Okay, its not the fuses, checked and checked and I am getting spark. I turned off the injectors, pulled the plugs and tested them. Haven't checked fuel filter though. One more thing to add, It doesn't turn over but I do get a backfire when I stop trying. Timing? And if so how can I adjust timing with the AEM EMS when its not idling? Cause for a split second when I turn over the car, my computer reads the timing at -14.7 for a split second then backfire and it dies again.
 
well, I got nothing. I charged up my battery hella well and I can get at best a 2 second sputter before the car dies. But, there is a weird thing as well that I noticed now. It almost sounds like and RC car slwoing down when the car dies.... could my alternator be siezed? As well, where is my ECU relay in my car? Is it the relay next to the stock ECU location or is that the fuel pump relay?
 
Sounds like mine. Ive been asking around and most i hear is the ecu is fried. I had my caps replaced and the stockers werent leaking so im not sure. Just a thought. I might end up buying a new ecu and try that, sucky part is mine is an eprom. :thumbdown
 
check ur coil pack, because mine sometimes wont start and ill get a little put when it stops starting, other then that, make sure ur timing is good and go from there...
 
InjenTalon96 said:
check ur coil pack, because mine sometimes wont start and ill get a little put when it stops starting, other then that, make sure ur timing is good and go from there...

I have some spare coils so I will try swapping them in. I do get spark, but I don't know if its good or bad.
 
Here's and update and I hope someone can help me with this or has had this problem b4 and can tell me what they had to fix.

Okay, We made sure all my timing marks are lined up, we checked and I got a beautiful blue spark from my coils after I swapped, I have fuel, but the car still won't turn over. First off, the firing order for a 1g is 1,4,2,3 correct? (please correct me if I am wrong) and secondly, if this is all in correctly, then what could cause this.

I am running HELLA rich and when we pull the plugs, they are soaked and the carbon build up on the new plugs is really bad. The only things that I have done are exhaust and a KN filter. Now has anyone had these symptoms before? They are spuratic and I used to be able to start my car once in a while. Now it is 100% stationary. I think it is a sensor, but what one? thx in advance, Matt
 
Well since you say you are getting spark then I would assume it is not your CAS. The only thing that I can think of now would be your fuel filter. It might sound a little stupid but my car was down for 2 months and after replacing many things, it would crank, get fire, etc.. and try to start and almost start every like 4-5 turns, then it would take 4-5 turns again to get it to try to start. My filter was so clogged that not enough fuel was getting there. So in the end, i replaced it and now things are great.

I doubt it is your ECU though. If you have checked it for burn/scortch marks, and it does not smell, then you should be fine. Oh, and are you sure you checked the MPI fuse in the bundle of 3 fuses on your positive battery cable?
 
have yo u had the cams off?? if so your lifters might be locked.... sounds alot like my problems and that fixed it...


Adam
 
Cams haven't come off. But you had the same problem, everything was there and the car should have turned over but it didn't? Thanks for the idea, I'll pop it by my mechanic. But what has me confused is how rich the car is running. When you crank the car over to start it, what controls the amount of fuel that is dumped into the cylinders? MAF and O2 sonsors don't have anything to do when you are trying to idle, so what else is there? SO that leads me to either Timing problem OR its running too rich due to another senso. I can't wait to get my hands on a service manual.

As for MPI fuses and relay, they are all good. As for the fuel idea, I get a SH*T load of fuel dumped in when I try cranking, its not the filter.
 
im not shure if its the same on your car as well, { i have a 98 gst} but i had the same exact problem and it ended up being the power transistor { the black molex plug next to the coil pack on mine} it had wiggled off, i pushed it down tight and my car came to life. i dunno if its any help but try it out :thumb:

Ron
 
Hmmm, I did that with all the switches and relays, but maybe I should try swapping in my spare ones, thanks for the idea.
 
i've encountered that problem before... and a turned out my ECU was bad. try swapping in a different ECU just to eliminate that factor in the equation. but earlier you mentioned and EMS... Are you running any type of fuel computer??? Check your settings
 
I have the problem with both my stock ECU and my AEM EMS. I knda ruled those ones out but I'll check again.
 
ok, your getting way too much fuel correct?
With that, it could be your fuel pump. Replace your fuel pump, and see if that helps. It COULD be your ecu, but i wouldnt bet on it, just because ecu's dont usually go out that often... (actually, i guess you ARE driving a dsm.. so its possible :rolleyes: )

Another must: check your compression!!!! If you dont readily have a tester, then take out a spark plug, and cover the hole with your finger or thunb (if they are long enough LOL) and have someone crank on it. If you feel a little bit of sucking, then you have compression. Try that with all four cylinders. But i would also user a tester, to see if the compression is about equal between all four.

If you have crappy compression, your block is most likely screwed.
 
Its the compression. Here's how painful it was, 80,90,115,100. For those that don't know, factory is 164 with 120 where you need service now. We then added oil and did the first two cylinders for sh*ts and giggles and got 120, 135. You think its piston rings much? But it still isn't that high so i am thinking a full rebuild is in order. Thanks everyone for the input.
 
Sounds like a bad starter to me. Soleniod [sp?] went out and doesnt produce that cranking power it needs to turn the car over. Check it with an OHM meter while cranking the car over it should never go under 12v. If the starter is bad it will draw the volts down under 12 not giving the car enough power to turn over.
 
ArticNemesis said:
If you can't get the engine running, then those aren't really your compression #'s.. You have to do a compression test on a warm motor.

Huh? Are you supposed to warm a car up then unplug the MPI fuse and then run a compression test? Well, if factory specs are 164 for a 1g turbo dsm, then shouldn't it be a little closer to 164 when I try to turn it over?
 
make sure the temp sensor is pluggeg in same thing happened to my brother. the lower plug on the water neck. good luck.
 
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