Cause of knockng? Possibly timing belt off Or Rod bearings?

[5PointOh]

Howdy, I bought my DSM a few months ago with a bad timing belt and some bent valves. After a few days, a headswap and new timing tensioners, etc. We got it running, however, it started knocking. Checked the oil and there was none in the crankcase, but it only ran for maybe a minute... I put some 10/30 in it and it still did it. Oil should have quieted it down a little bit, but didn't. Then it konked out and died and I gave up. However, right afterwards, literally minutes, I tried turning it by hand with a ratchet and it was normal, but no compression. The oil pressure seems fine, at least on the guage.

My question is...
Is it possible that since it was my first time doing the timing belt and not using the special tool it was off enough to cause a severe knock? The engine was rocking slightly with each knock. It sounded external, but you could feel it if you touched the engine.

Or, the bad scenario, a rod bearing( or four) are toast?

Right now, it's 120 miles away at my parents, so I won't be able to get you immediate answers... However, I DID buy the special tool to set the tension($15 online, I got two), an I-beam style torque wrench, stuff to check/rebuild the oil pump(I'll probably get a new oil pump and keep the seals as spares...), I got a used high mileage head on ebay and had a local shop do a valve job, and deck the head for flatness and to take a scratch out. I also got a balance shaft delete kit to do if everything checks out when I'm under there checking the rod bearings. Luckily, my little sister's graduation party is a week away so I'll be dragging it home...

 

[BUCK]

After a few days, a headswap and new timing tensioners, etc. We got it running, however, it started knocking. Checked the oil and there was none in the crankcase, but it only ran for maybe a minute... I put some 10/30 in it and it still did it.

Or, the bad scenario, a rod bearing( or four) are toast?

- TOAST - & Toasted Balance Shaft Bearings too..

- Also am I to understand that you did a Head & Timing Belt job then CRANKED & then STARTED & then RAN the car with no Oil in it? :thumbdown

 

[heavyD]

Somebody needs a new bottom end. Who knew that the crankcase would need lubracation?

 

[5PointOh]

Well, it had oil when he parked it after the timing belt broke. However, when I was helping him move, we pushed the car into the street overnight, he let the tags expire because it wasn't running and they towed it. The towing service that does the city's contract is known for doing things to tune-up cars to make them run funny, however, I've never heard of them draining oil... There's no oil in the street where it sat overnight, nor is there any in the driveway where the car sat both before and after the tow.

heavy d, it's lubrication

 

[BUCK]

In conclusion it OBVIOUSLY must be pointed out here that on Water Cooled Engines it's a UNIVERSAL requirement to drain Coolant prior to Head removal to minimize contamination & a UNIVERSAL requirement to change the Oil after Installing Head due to the inevitable contamination. Putting Coolant back in is a good idea too...