clutch stays down

[NJ99GSX]

latley when ive been getting in my car, the clutch has had a lot off loose play, when i push on it there would be like no pressure until it was halfway in, it would get a little better when the car reached regular temp but not much, and tonight i just went to get in it and pushed the clutch down and it doesnt come back up, if i pull it it pops back up but stays down when i push it

crankwalk, or somegthing with the cable or slave cylinder?

 

[Colossus]

This is my list of solutions to clutch pedal resistance problems.

Things to check FIRST:

Clutch fluid level. If Low, refill. You'll probably need to bleed the master cylinder, or even the whole line, if the fluid got low enough to allow air into the line.

Check the rubber section of the line. It's on the passenger side, in front of the motor mount holding up the transmission. Just follow the line from the master cylinder, you'll find it. If it's leaking/broken/cracked/etc. Replace it. The best replacement would be the $25 dollar or so Stainless Steel flex line replacement. Many DSM parts vendors carry these lines.

Check on the interior for the pivot bolt to be lose. The clutch pedal goes up and connects to a long rod, which extends over to the gas pedal side of the car to attach to the master cylinder. At the end of this rod is a bolt, holding the rod up. Check to insure this bolt is tightened. Sometimes this bolt can come lose, and allow the pedal to move normally until it reaches back pressure from the master cylinder, then it stops turning and just pivots the clutch pedal with spring force. This normally is made sure of by pressing on the pedal, and noting wether or not it makes a quick snap to or from the floor. If it does, check this bolt.

Bleed the lines to insure all air has been removed from the line.

Remove the master cylinder. It's hold on by 2 12mm bolts, 1 10mm clutch line, and one VERY painful cotter pin to remove. It's located above the gas pedal on the interior. The clutch pedal is attached to a very long rod, which runs over to above and behind the gas pedal. From here, it's attached directly to the master cylinder. There's a pin between the two rods which connect, holding the pedal to the master cylinder. This pin has a cotter pin on it, allowing it to be held into place. This pin is one very PITA to remove, so take you're time. Remember the replace the cotter pin upon reinstallation to insure the pin doesn't fall back out (it will). Replace the pin with a NEW pin.

Check the master cylinder. Place an ample amount of brake fluid into the container, and try compressing the rod with your finger over the line attachment hole. If you have a good deal of pressure with minimal free-play, the master cylinder is ok. Reinstall it.

Check the slave cylinder. I believe it, too, is held on by 2 12mm bolts and for sure a 10 mm line. Remove it, and check to make sure the piston is ok, the pushrod functions properly, etc. If not, replace it. If so, reinstall it. It's located underneath the car on the transmission.

If all else fails, remove the transmission.

Check to insure that you're clutch fork isn't bent or broken. Make note of a worn down Throw Out Baring (TOB), Clutch disk, Clutch Pressure Plate, or a warn down pivot ball on the clutch fork. Replace any if necessary, and reinstall.

This is my list of all possible solutions to have no pressure on your clutch pedal.

Always bleed your line if you detach any of the components connected to it until ALL air is removed from the system.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=121322

 

[NJ99GSX]

ok i took a look at it today, theres fluid all over the bottome of the tranny, i cant tell if its coming from the slave cylinder or from the boot where the fork goes into the tranny.

 

[NJ99GSX]

edit

 

[jott5555]

you probally had a progressingly failing slave cylinder. replace it bleed the system and call it good..

 

[miteclgst]

if you plan on changing/rebuilding the slave cylinder I would definately look into rebuilding the master cylinder also, the kit was like $12 from NAPA and the rebuild is a snap. The slave cylinder has a tendency to leak at the firewall because the seals on the piston are bad and/or the cylinder walls are scored. So if you replace the slave cylinder you will have to bleed the lines and adjust the clutch neways so you might as well rebuild the master cylinder and kill 2 birds with one stone. I had the same problem as you with the clutch not comming back to the normal position, once I rebuilt the master cylinder it felt like a totally different/new car. just my $0.02