New ACT Clutch Slipping??

[noz]

I just installed an ACT yesterday, after bleeding clutch fluid with valvoline dot3/4 and refilling the tranny with Pennzoil synchromesh i took it for a test drive and it felt great.
Today after 20 mins of driving, the car starting loosing power. When I gas it, it will just rev like its in neutral and I have to drive slowly just to go faster. This is the clutch slipping right? why is it slipping already?

My friend who worked at Pepboys helped me put the clutch in and he said that my flywheel was still good so we didn't get that resurface, can that be the problem?

 

[realhp=turbo]

Did you re-adjust the pedal? Ive heard that when you switch to an ACT2100 or 2600 that you sometimes get this very problem. I read in here somewhere that there is an adjustible slave push rod ( it unscrews in the middle). so that you can adjust the clutch at the slave cylinder instead of the pedal. I hear that this happens because of the step in the flywheel not being tall enough, or something. Anyway, nothing to really worry about, just an adjustment. I think. good luck with your clutch

 

[noz]

My friend readjusted the clutch pedal so that's theres no free-play, thats done with the nuts behind the clutch pedal, is that what you mean?

 

[noz]

, My car slips like crazy after 20mins of driving when let cooled. WTF?
is my new clutch wasted already? Damn.......................
HELP!!!

 

[miteclgst]

Did you get your flywheel stepped? If so did you have it stepped to 0.610? if you didn't do this then 1 problem could be that the pressure plate cannot place all of the force on the disc because the disc is too close and the pressure plate hindering it from using it's full leverage. Also you said that your friend adjusted the clutch so that there is "no free play" I hope you mean free play off the floor (this is bad to but it wouldn't allow you to disengage the clutch making it impossible to get in gear) because having no free play when the clutch pedal is in the up position means that the clutch isn't fully engaging because the pedal stop is not allowing it to. And to answer your other queston you can adjust the push rod at the slave cylinder behind the clutch pedal by loosening the jamb nut and turning the rod. And finally the last question, are you breaking in the clutch as per ACT policies, meaning 500 miles: no boost, no WOT?

 

[noz]

There is no freeplay whatever so ever for the clutch pedal, thats what i mean.
I didn't boost or wot the car at all, it just starting slipping. My friend didn't do anything to the flywheel at all because he said it still looks good, hes done clutch before. So would the reason be because of the flywheel?

Damnit if i have to drop the tranny again, i would rather pay a shop to do it with oem clutch for $420

 

[Turbo Monk3y]

yeah miteclgst is right you should have got your flywheel resurfaced #1 then get it steped anywhere from .610to.611 is fine. your stock flywheel is .618 i think and is higher than your act will allow for maximum grip. I did not have to step myne becuase i bought an Aftermarket Exedy Lightened flywheel that came Pre Stepped. And i just installed my ACT2600 last week now since i have 450-500 miles on it i can spin all 4 tires and it grips like a bi***... Either that or you should just take it easy on the clutch for 400 + miles.

 

[noz]

so even if it slips, if i take an easy for over 400+ miles then it will start to grip???
its still drivable...but i can't really accelerate that fast without it slipping.....
so should i just wait til 400+ and see if it grips? or drop the tranny and resurface/step the flywheel?

one more thing, its weird that for the first 20mins when the car is cool the clutch won't sleep at all and will only sleep when its warmed up. eh??? because metal expand when they get hot??? iiono....

 

[miteclgst]

In the first 20 minutes the clutch is probably slipping it's just that you really don't notice it because it is subtle, slipping causes heat and heat, as anyone will tell you, is a clutch's worst enemy. The fact that your friend said that your flywheel was good and didn't have it machined kind of worries me. I mean lets say he really does know what he is doing, if this was the case then he would have told you to get it machined, I mean the flywheel is right there, easy enough to remove why not have the surface void of any kind of unusual wear caused by the old clutch? Obviously he didn't read the specs on the clutch before he installed it. My advice would be to get that clutch out now before you end up warping the flywheel, pressure plate and wasting the disc. Get the flywheel stepped correctly and have someone who knows what they are looking at inspect the pressure plate surface, the disc surfaces and have the machine shop look at the flywheel. Hopefully, if you have been easy on the car then you can get away with stepping the flywheel, readjusting the clutch and breaking it in. Otherwise if you cooked it you are lookin at some serious replacement.
The reason ACT wants you to break the clutch in is to allow all of the surfaces to mate correctly, I mean think about it, if you rebuild an engine you give the valves time to seat propperly and the rings to set properly, you don't just go and pour some oil in and rip of 3rd gear pulls. This is something you really need to take care of NOW otherwise you could be out some serious money and render a brand new clutch useless.
When you do get the flywheel machined take it to a reputable place and actually talk to the guy doing the work to make sure you are on the same page. What they will normally do is machine the surface and then make up for the lost material by removing the same amount from mounts that the pressure plate bolts up to. Make sure that the guy understands that the surface of the mounts is precisely 0.610 inches higher than the surface of the flywheel. And if you have the time make him measure it in front of you.

 

[FASTSPOOLINGST]

you will know if it is slipping if you are trying to accelerate and you aren't going anywhere and your tach hits the rev limiter, especially under boost. That is what my GS-T did after I put my Evo 16g on it. It slipped like a mo-fo'

Did you buy a SS clutch line and did you take out the restrictor?

BTW you should be slapped for not resurfacing your flywheel. You must not have researched too much prior to doing the maintenance.

I have a XACT fly i will sell you for a good price if you are interested, PM me.

Good luck with it bro

 

[noz]

quick question, how much would it cost me to buy an OEM pressureplate, disc, and tob?
Im planning on takin the ACT clutch kit off and put on OEM because my car is still under extended warranty and I'll put on the act clutch after the warranty period is over.

Are these the same ones mitsu dealers use? oem?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...tem=2475945127&category=33730&sspagename=WDVW