Car dying then coming back to life

[nineD5_GS-T]

I will be cruising, in either 3rd or 4th usually, and out of nowhere, the car will die, all the guage cluster lights come on, and the car is dead. But about a second later, it will just turn back on.

Since the car is still in gear, it gives it that rolling start and just starts by itself. Its like push starting itself.

Anyway, has anyone heard of this problem before? Is the coil possibly going bad?

Edit: The logger shows no check engine lights.

 

[Coldandafraid]

this happened to me once, but it was during a moderately hard 2nd to 3rd gear shift. Right when it engaged and pulled again, all power went off for a split second, and then started up again. I had a check engine light for a second, and then that went off too, and all has been normal since then... weird

 

[mitsutuner]

If your problem continues or gets worse, pull out you ECU & look very closely at it for capacitor leakage & soft melted black rubber goo in the middle of the micro-chips & other board damage. The 1000 FAQ lists other symptoms of ECU failure & also a procedure for replacing the caps which I don't suggest--better to have your ECU rebuilt by a pro-shop, even if it looks like cap. leakage is your only problem because it most likely is not.
Although I never used this particular shop, click on the link below & then click where it says "photos of the repair process"

http://www.avproecm.com/

 

[Enigma_Man]

I had a similar problem with my positive battery terminal touching the hood of my car. The whole thing would shut off, and all the dash lights would turn on, like I just started the car.

Pop the hood, look for scarring right over the battery. If there is, buy shorter terminals, cover them with something non-conductive (like that little rubber/plastic boot that comes there stock) and secure the battery more towards the rear of the car.

-Jesse

 

[mitsutuner]

Good call on the battery possibly shorting out! If that happens enough times, you will for sure toast the ECU to a "no-core-value". BTW, with slight modifications, some ECU part number variations is possible--see link below.
http://www.ecanfix.com/~mdhamilton/ecuschematics.html

 

[nineD5_GS-T]

Originally posted by Enigma_Man
I had a similar problem with my positive battery terminal touching the hood of my car. The whole thing would shut off, and all the dash lights would turn on, like I just started the car.

Pop the hood, look for scarring right over the battery. If there is, buy shorter terminals, cover them with something non-conductive (like that little rubber/plastic boot that comes there stock) and secure the battery more towards the rear of the car.

-Jesse

Damn, you were right. Good call.

I figured out the problem and I thought I would post the solution in case anyone else has the problem in the future. It turns out that whenever my car would hit a slight bump. the battery would pop-up just a tad causing the terminal to make contact with the hood. I noticed a small burn mark on the underside of the hood. This would then ground everything causing the car to die.

The reason my car was making a little groggly sound was because the downpipe bolts loosened themself from the o2 housing causing an exhuast leak. I got some loctite red and am going to tighten the bolt/nut combo tomorrow when I get the proper 19mm socket.

Another thing is that the bolt from the dump part of the wastegate came loose causing an exhuast leak there too.

The car would run a little weird because the vaccum line running from the boost controller to the external gate would rub against the gate burning a hole in the line giving me a small vaccum leak.