Why you should baby your AT

[WillRaceForBeer]

Well AT owner's, here's what not to do in your AT and why.

Don't shift from 1-2-D unless you got a good reason
Don't use OD unless rpms are over 3k in D (saves end clutch)
Don't downshift from D to 2nd unless under prob 2k in D (not OD)
Don't downshift from OD to D unless under 2k or at a light.
Don't WOT consecutively without a aftermarket tranny cooler
Don't Neutral drop, PERIOD, even accidently. If you shift into N, pull over, then shift to D, it's not neural that kills, it's going back into drive.

1 or more of those led to this:

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So take care of those AT's, and upgrade them just as you do your engine. you can visit Plymouth Laser for lots of AT faqs and parts.

-Jon

 

[Slappster]

A prime example why you just shouldn't buy at's at all.

 

[WillRaceForBeer]

look at it this way tho.

At, much less chance of crank walk, and when fully built and driven properly is practically bullet proof

Mt, I could be swaping an egnine now, buying a ACT 2600 which might lead to crank walk, or be buying a trans cause i grinded a few gears over the years.

$500 for a working AT and then the work to keep it in 1 piece for a few years is well worth it IMHO, as MT's aren't cheap either when used for racing.

it's all about perspective really, no matter what both transmissions eat money at similar intervals.

-Jon

 

[boostineklipz]

i am not pleased to see that jon

 

[Eliminat0r]

well i hope that doesnt happen to my at cause ive well actually my dog hit the shifter and neutral dropped twice luckily they were at lights both times but i didnt realize it untill i tried to move and i heard the worst sound ever it sounded like a stripped something but i didn't so i guess i got lucky

 

[KRAZYKOREAN]

Originally posted by WillRaceForBeer
look at it this way tho.

At, much less chance of crank walk, and when fully built and driven properly is practically bullet proof

Mt, I could be swaping an egnine now, buying a ACT 2600 which might lead to crank walk, or be buying a trans cause i grinded a few gears over the years.

$500 for a working AT and then the work to keep it in 1 piece for a few years is well worth it IMHO, as MT's aren't cheap either when used for racing.

it's all about perspective really, no matter what both transmissions eat money at similar intervals.

-Jon

to everything you just said and another reason not to drive a car like a douchebag

 

[MrPikolo]

thats sorta how the one that was in my car looked before I switched it. Except their seemed to be lots more shavings

 

[igs]

Originally posted by WillRaceForBeer
Well AT owner's, here's what not to do in your AT and why.

Don't shift from 1-2-D unless you got a good reason
Don't use OD unless rpms are over 3k in D (saves end clutch)
Don't downshift from D to 2nd unless under prob 2k in D (not OD)
Don't downshift from OD to D unless under 2k or at a light.
Don't WOT consecutively without a aftermarket tranny cooler
Don't Neutral drop, PERIOD, even accidently. If you shift into N, pull over, then shift to D, it's not neural that kills, it's going back into drive.

1 or more of those led to this:

So take care of those AT's, and upgrade them just as you do your engine. you can visit Plymouth Laser for lots of AT faqs and parts.

-Jon

I do all of the above (and have been on a daily basis for 4 years) except for neutral drop, so that must be your problem.

 

[bull999999]

Won't it make more sense to do a power braking than a neutral drop, esp. on a turbo car?

 

[strunk]

I have a AT in my other car, I bring it to 3 grand in 1st then just put my pedal to the floor and then at like 6,000 i drop it into 2nd until redline then into drive. I am trying to kill my tranny cuz it is old and it shifts shitty. If you drive like that on a daily basis then it will destroy your tranny but if you do it just for when ur racing someone, it shouldn't kill the tranny to bad. When I race someone i shift into first then brake torque it. Even though my car is fwd I get a pretty quick launch when i do it.

 

[SOURCE1064]

Sorry to see that Jon. I've already been through 1 mitsu tranny due to doing crap like that. Now I have a fully built level ten tranny with shifttronic so I now have full control over the gears.

 

[WillRaceForBeer]

Originally posted by KRAZYKOREAN


to everything you just said and another reason not to drive a car like a douchebag

thanx for another useless reply tard...

I have a AT in my other car, I bring it to 3 grand in 1st then just put my pedal to the floor and then at like 6,000 i drop it into 2nd until redline then into drive. I am trying to kill my tranny cuz it is old and it shifts shitty. If you drive like that on a daily basis then it will destroy your tranny but if you do it just for when ur racing someone, it shouldn't kill the tranny to bad. When I race someone i shift into first then brake torque it. Even though my car is fwd I get a pretty quick launch when i do it.

Yah lauching on stock TC at 3k is fine, especially on a FWD car, but don't power break more than 4-5 seconds, unless you have a tranny temp gauge and know it's not getting to hot.

Besides neutral drops, everything else that kills an AT is usually due to overheating.
for instance staying in 1st and 2nd for long periods of time heats up the tranny much faster than 3rd, as 3rd is a 1:1 ratio. This means No gears in the main chamber spin at all, (low friction) I used to drive in 2nd all the time around neighborhoods... oops

Now that i got a tranny temp gauge i will see how 2nd really effects tranny temps.

Anyways if you AT guys have any questions specific to AT's shoot me an e-mail. Having removed my AT myself and torn it down, I've leaned a lot since this post, and would be pleased to share what i know.
IN saving AT's and your wallets the woes,

Jon

thats sorta how the one that was in my car looked before I switched it. Except their seemed to be lots more shavings

what did you do wrong?

 

[FourG63 97GST]

how long did it take to do all that damage?

Originally posted by WillRaceForBeer
look at it this way tho.

At, much less chance of crank walk

hope you dont, becuase you'll have to get another 7 bolt

 

[WillRaceForBeer]

Well, I've had my car 1 year, I pushed her pretty hard and raced regularly when i was home from college. Wouldn't have been such a bad thing if i had been concerned with transmission temperatures.

About the CW

AT's are less likely to crank walk because there is no clutch constantly pushing and pulling on them like in a MT, rather they are pretty well stuck in place by the TC. It's not unheard of tho, just less likely...

 

[MrPikolo]

Originally posted by WillRaceForBeer


what did you do wrong?

Heh, it was that way when I bought it. That is why i turned it into a standard. The transmission itself was quite cracked, and when I opened it up, I found lots of metal shavings, and about a inch long peice of metal(i think it was part of the spider gear). I will post pics sometime...maybe.

 

[igs]

Originally posted by WillRaceForBeer

Now that i got a tranny temp gauge i will see how 2nd really effects tranny temps.

I drive in 1st and 2nd all the time. Every day in fact, for miles, and have been for years. No problems.

 

[XxXEcLiPsE93]

at's are for people that dont care for speed or performance or anything resembling what there car was intended for and are just lazy people who dont wanna learn to drive stick

 

[WillRaceForBeer]

thats funny, i learned to drive on my dad's mazda pickup that was stick.... tho i'll admit it's a bit different then driving an MT DSM as i've driven a few friends.

But Go to a track or Nopi and look in the cockpit of the fastest cars, I hear you'll find more AT's then you will MT's. AT's are simply better for all out drag in most applications because you don't lose boost between shifts, and can build more boost at the line.

too lazy to shift? this thread is practically about what damage shifting can cause.

borred in the am,
-jon

 

[tmizer]

Good info Jon, although I must agree with IGS. But what parts did you end up putting in the tranny? I've got the Alto end-clutch kit. Can't seem to get ahold of the Translab shift kit, however.


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(oh, and if I truly wanted to shift, I'd ride my GSX-R...

 

[SOURCE1064]

From one of my old posts, hope this helps.

I have been searching for months to get the Translab shift kit and Alto End Clutch for my car and if anyone has been trying to get one over the last few months from dunriteconverters.com ithey know that they are moving and they haven't been selling them recently. I found the guy who actually makes the kits. His name is Dean Mason and his e-mail address is [email protected] The shift kit goes for $75 and the end clutch goes for $75 also which includes shipping. I just thought I'd spread the word because I would have like this information about 5 months ago.

 

[sphillips91]

How to drive an automatic:

1. put car in drive
2. hit gas and brakes accordingly

That is all.

 

[igs]

Originally posted by sphillips91
How to drive an automatic:

1. put car in drive
2. hit gas and brakes accordingly

That is all.

This thread isn't about driving an automatic, it's about shifting an automatic.

 

[sphillips91]

Aye. Thats the whole point of an automatic. It does the shifting for you.

Hence the name.

Ahhh what technology can do these days.

 

[igs]

Yes, technology is amazing. It has even progessed to the point of sportronics. An automatic that you shift manually.

 

[sphillips91]

Far as I know DSMs didnt come standard with sportronic transmissions.