rotating assembly for a 7 bolt?s

[spdyshowcar]

Im in the process of possibly rebuilding a 7 bolt i have in my shop and was wanting to see opinions from people on what rotating assembly i should go with.
Its for a street build that will go to the track from time to time just looking for something reliable.

Just looking to see what rod/ piston combinations people have gone with and have had good results with this will be a daily driven car (during summer months) and the car the engine is going into is already set up with welbro 255 larger fuel lines i have 750 and 1000 cc injectors to use, aem fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator, jackson racing stage 3 awd transmission, dsm link and eprom computer, my plans are probably to run 16 to 25 lbs of boost using a turbo xs dual stage boost controller, with a big 20g turbo.
Just wanting some opinions from some fellow builders out there

 

[Muzzled]

You're doing a similar setup as me, I used a 4g64 crank wiseco stroker pistons, and eagle rods acl race bearings (coated). i'll also be running a hahn super20g

 

[BogusSVO]

If the crank is in decent shape, run the stock crank.

What is your HP goal?

What is the budget for the build?

Figure about any new set of H beam rods and forged pistons will cost about $1000

 

[spdyshowcar]

the crank is in pretty good shape im not looking for ridiculous power maybe if i hit a around 450hp id be happy if i was able to squeeze out some more that would be great im having the block honed its gonna be standard size if im not changing the crank it will help the crank is in good shape i will have it balanced that would leave me about $1500 to $2000 to work with on the rest of what i need

 

[white92talontsi]

Hell i'd run a 20g on a stock block honestly.

 

[boost97gst]

Might as well have the block decked along with the head and run a MLS HG. I mean, if its out, its only a little extra. Stock crank can take anything your going to throw at it. Girdle if necessary.
Eage rods and quite a few different pistons would be fine. You can step up to a 9:1CR or even a little higher, but 8.5 is perfectly fine too. Ive been happy with my setup over the last 4k miles or so. No problems yet, knock on particle board.

When you say crank is good, make the machinist double, no triple check specs. A used crank thats not cut right or cut too much or not polished right can have you tearing down again in 300 miles. Just a personal lesson i learned the very hard way.

 

[Twinturbo120]

$2000 isn't that much for a rebuild. The machine work for both the head and block could cost upwards of 900 bucks. That's just machine work. As far as pistons/rods, check what people here are using. I'm going to use manley pis/rods in my build. It's what a lot of people are using for a build. No complaints from them. Anyway, make sure to use the packaged deal on extremepsi. If you buy separate, you'll lose money.

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

 

[gofer]

I recommend building a 2.3 with a stock 100mm 4g64 crank, Arias stroker pistons or Wiseco HD's if you're not on a tight budget, and Eagle H-beam rods with a 22mm wrist pin.

Building a 4g63 with 450whp as a goal isn't rocket science, the stock bottom end can reliably handle those power goals with proper tuning. The kicker here is what fuel you plan on using, if you're going E85 or meth inject a 2.0 will be fine but if you're wanting to run pump gas on a 20g then 450whp might be out of reach unless you build a stroker.