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Newbie Forum: Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. Probationary Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums.

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Old 08-19-2012, 03:20 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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Mirad's Avatar
From: San Diego, California
Registered: Jan 2011
Tech Posts: 20
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I'm having problems installing my alternator belt. It has too much slack?


I drive a 1995 Eagle Talon ESI Non-Turbo. It's bone stock.

Quick story: I was driving through the rain one day and my alternator belt snapped on the road. Oh sh*t! I said. I made it to my friends house and later had it towed back home.

I went ahead and bought an alternator belt from NAPA:

NAPA MICRO-V
Advanced Technology by Gates
25 040390

I followed my FSM:

1. Remove the passenger side tire and plastic cover.

2. It doesn't mention about removing the Serpentine Belt first? Its the belt for the Power Steering Pump, A/C, Crank Pulley, and Tensioner. I removed that belt, because it looked like it was the only way for me to connect my belt from the Alternator to the Crank Pulley

3. I loosened the lock nut (top bolt on the alternator?) a little bit.

4. It says loosen the generator pivot nut? Where and what is that?

5. I didn't touch my adjusting screw.

6. I was able to slide my alternator belt onto the Alternator Pulley and the inner pulley for Crank Pulley easily. I did notice that when I pulled the alternator belt out more, I had an extra 3 inches of space?

So my questions are:

Is something else supposed to be using the belt? The diagram on the FSM pg 9B-10 shows only the alternator belt connected to the Alternator Pulley and Crank Pulley

Am I suppose to push/pull the alternator belt while screwing the locking nut bolt back into place and then screw in the adjusting screw?

Did the guy at Napa give me the wrong belt?

Thanks in advance!

I know I'll need this soon:

It's for adjusting the tension on the alternator belt for us guys with 420a engines.

How To: Adjust Alternator Belt on 420a



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Old 08-19-2012, 03:31 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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zcox122's Avatar
From: dubuque, Iowa
Registered: Jun 2012
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It should be tighter and nothing else runs off it. I just replaced mine to. I would check the part #.

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Old 08-19-2012, 10:35 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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2literbeatsV8's Avatar
From: Kentwood, Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zcox122 View Post
It should be tighter and nothing else runs off it. I just replaced mine to. I would check the part #.
Yeah, sounds like the NAPA guy didn't properly cross reference the part number for you. If you have a Haynes it should tell you somewhere what the OEM part number is.


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Big 16G, FMIC, Greddy BOV

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Old 08-19-2012, 10:45 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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From: otwell, Indiana
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This might help you get the right belt size as well. Determining what accessory belt to use
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Old 08-21-2012, 01:19 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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Mirad's Avatar
From: San Diego, California
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Thanks for the help everyone! Now I got another issue.

Turns out the Napa guy gave me the wrong belt which was for a Mitsubishi Engine which I'm guessing is the 4g63 engine.

I was able to exchange it and then the lady was able to find the right one for me and mentioned that this is the correct one for my Chrysler Engine. 420A

NAPA MICRO-V
Advanced Technology by Gates
25 040355

I slid on the new belt with ease.

Bear with me on this next scenario. Some how my belt got tension and I don't know how it did.

At this point of the repair, I have my top alternator belt completely loosened and my adjusting screw hasn't been touched since my belt snapped off during my drive.

1. I turned the adjusting screw counter clockwise to put tension on the belt.

2. After turning the adjusting screw down a few times, I noticed the belt wasn't getting any tension.

3. I thought maybe I was loosening it so I turned the adjusting screw clockwise.

4. I noticed the adjusting screw was getting loose, so I stopped and then turned the adjusting screw clockwise knowing that I was doing it right the first time.

5. I checked my belt and it had some tension too it. I figured I might've put too much tension seeing that the deflection was less than 1/4". I went ahead and turned the adjusting screw clockwise a bit.

6. The tension on the belt stayed the same. I continued to turn the adjusting screw clockwise a bit more and checking each time to see if the belt was getting any slack. I didn't get any and I couldn't remove the belt at all. However the adjusting screw was now sticking way out. I kept turning it to the point that the adjusting screw could almost fall out.

Anyone know what happened? Did the tensioner somehow get cross threaded?

Should I go ahead and remove my alternator to see if the tensioner is messed up?

Is the tensioner attached to the alternator?

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Old 08-21-2012, 01:34 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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From: otwell, Indiana
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Do you have a haynes or chiltons manual? If I remember right there is a bolt holding the tensioner pulley in place. That has to be loosened to move the pulley. You can thread the adjuster knob all the way out and it won't do anything if the pulley is still bolted down.

Look at this pic. It is different than yours but I think the pulley I use for my water pump tensioner is from a 420a or a NA 4g63. Either way should be the same. Engine Photos - custom alternator relocation utilizing a/c tensioner and custom water pump tensioner using parts from a 1g tensioner designed and built by me DSMtuners Gallery The lower left small pulley has a shaft going through it with a nut on the back side. The adjustment bolt is on the left of it. does that help?

This is the same tensioner pulley but your configuration.
Name:  2012-01-09_233409_capture.jpg
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Last edited by 2slow4now; 08-21-2012 at 01:40 AM. Reason: found a diagram.
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Old 08-21-2012, 02:31 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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From: Hayward, California
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I just replaced my friends belt on his 420. i just loosen up the tensioner/idler pulley, slid the belt in and tighten it back up. i just had trouble whether to turn in clockwise or counterclockwise.

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Old 08-21-2012, 05:36 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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Mirad's Avatar
From: San Diego, California
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I have the FSM.

Thanks for the diagram 2slow4now, however that one is for Power Steering, A/C, and the Crank Pulley. Not the Alternator. I have that diagram in my FSM as well.

I know that my drawing blows, but this is the diagram for my Alternator connected by the Alternator Belt to the Crank Pulley.



I'll take some colorful pictures tomorrow and upload them here.

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Old 08-21-2012, 02:20 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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Yeah I got you but the adjustment works the same. The lock nut has to be loose for the adjustment bolt to work. The lower pivot bolt has to be loose as well. For the adjustment to work it has to be able to slide the top bolt in the slot. After you adjust it you then tighten up the top and bottom bolts.
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Old 08-21-2012, 09:42 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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Car: 97 Dodge Avenger ES
From: Iowa City, Iowa
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Have you checked that the adjusting bolt is a fully threaded bolt and doesn't have a space inbetween??
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Old 08-25-2012, 06:16 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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From: San Diego, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2slow4now View Post
Yeah I got you but the adjustment works the same. The lock nut has to be loose for the adjustment bolt to work. The lower pivot bolt has to be loose as well. For the adjustment to work it has to be able to slide the top bolt in the slot. After you adjust it you then tighten up the top and bottom bolts.
I'll definitely give it another shot once the weather gets better.

I'll loosen up my lower bolt more. I only unscrewed it a bit.

Pretty much. My lock nut was completely backed out to the point that it will fall off with one more turn. My tensioner bolt was backed out as well. And I unscrewed the lower bolt with two turns.

Thanks for the info!

Quote:
Originally Posted by grothe3297venge View Post
Have you checked that the adjusting bolt is a fully threaded bolt and doesn't have a space inbetween??
I haven't had the chance to try and remove the adjusting bolt to see if it is fully threaded.

But from feeling around it, it seems like it is. I'll let you know if I do have to remove it to see what's the issue.

Last edited by Mirad; 08-25-2012 at 06:18 PM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping

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Old 08-26-2012, 09:10 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #12 (permalink)
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From: Red Deer, AB, Canada
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Check to make sure the threads are okay? They may be stripped a little bit
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