Quick Crankwalk question...

[talon2gbuyer]

Ok, so ive spent the last day sifting through the millions of crankwalk threads, here is my very simple question. A.) Is it safe to say the only way to check on the status of your crankshaft to take it to a dealer and have them perform the end play tests? B.) i'm getting the gist that so far there is no reputable solution for crankwalk proofing our engines (thanks mitsu for half assing your motor..) except arguably the 6 bolt swap (which still crankwalk, just in less instances)?

I only ask because it seems like this mainly happens when you replace a part of the trans, and whenever you even look at the clutch wrong, and I am about to have my trans rebuilt at a local shop in delaware, and I am going to warn them about proper clutch adjustment to prevent crankwalk in the future. Any other tidbits of advise I should get before I send the car in for repair?

[pauleyman]

The dealer doesn't have to check endplay. Any competent mechanic can do that. Do it yourself. This also doesn't happen because you change the transmission. Many people have problems with the clutch adjustment and the worst case scenario is when you lock the hydralics. I believe there are two causes, heavy clutches and a change in design to the thrust bearing oiling system. Keep in mind what a thrust bearing must do and you'll understand.
Hack fixes like a longer slave etc. don't help matters either. There are countless topics with countless opinions, I just gave mine.

[talon2gbuyer]

Gotcha, ive heard that you can do the test yourself, but that its tougher without a lift. I think ill just go and pay a mechanic to do it for me, less time out of my day. Thanks for the heads up

[DJChunter]

It would be very easy to do even on the ground as long as you have a dial indicator and know how to use it. Also a 6 Bolt swap is not your only way out down the road if it happens(Also a 6bolt won't crank walk by design) There is an updated revised thrust bearing if you ever have your motor apart.
Dave

[danielbo91]

You meant to say that the 98-99 and some late 97 have the updated trust washer bearing, witch is almost as strong a 6 bolt block...

[JusMX141]

Originally Posted by DJChunter

(Also a 6bolt won't crank walk by design)

Oh yeah? Dacowgod parted out a completely-stock 1G 6-bolt with an auto trans a while ago....take a guess what happened to the engine.

Aside from the girdle, the thrust bearing design between the 6-bolt and early 7-bolt's are identical....a two-piece bearing located on the middle main journal.

[PieEyedPiper]

Originally Posted by talon2gbuyer

Ok, so ive spent the last day sifting through the millions of crankwalk threads, here is my very simple question. A.) Is it safe to say the only way to check on the status of your crankshaft to take it to a dealer and have them perform the end play tests? B.) i'm getting the gist that so far there is no reputable solution for crankwalk proofing our engines (thanks mitsu for half assing your motor..) except arguably the 6 bolt swap (which still crankwalk, just in less instances)?

I only ask because it seems like this mainly happens when you replace a part of the trans, and whenever you even look at the clutch wrong, and I am about to have my trans rebuilt at a local shop in delaware, and I am going to warn them about proper clutch adjustment to prevent crankwalk in the future. Any other tidbits of advise I should get before I send the car in for repair?

A) No. You can/should check it yourself. You will likely have to jack up the car and remove the driver's side wheels. That's about it.
I checked mine while I had my pan off.

B) Get those ideas out of your head completely. I would not even be thinking about trying to connect crankwalk to pulling the transmission. Oh, and adjust your own clutch. The shop will not do it correctly unless they're DSM specific. Just get them to do their part and you can take care of the rest. - But I don't mean to indicate that it's unreasonable to think that a properly adjusted clutch would be included in a rebuild.

[JusMX141]

The only ways to prolong thrust bearing life on a factory-assembled engine is to:

- Use a high-zinc motor oil.

- Disable your clutch switch by either pulling the plug or setting the circuit on a toggle if you have Link so you don't screw up any launch control features that operate from the clutch switch. This enables you to start the the engine with the clutch out instead of depressed, which unloads the thrust bearing upon startup when there is no oil on the bearing's surfaces.

[H4G64T]

I hate these posts. I hate these posts. I hate these posts. I hate these posts.

Okay that was my attempt to dissipate some of my rage.

1. Why are you posting this? Why are you reading about crankwalk? Are you Chicken Little? This is something you worry about if and when it happens and not just because you own a 2G.

2. Anybody with a digital caliper can check for endshaft play. There is a huge article online that shows how, use Google for a few minutes and I promise you will find it.

3. 6 bolts crankwalk too. Covered by Justin, but to drive the point home:

4g63t 6 bolt crank walk - YouTube

4. Outside of using high zinc oil and disabling your clutch switch, you can largely avoid Crankwalk by not slamming stock bearings with heavy pressure plates. Mitsubishi never designed the car with the idea that an ACT 2600 should be on it.

[Tiki2777]

Originally Posted by PieEyedPiper

A) No. You can/should check it yourself. You will likely have to jack up the car and remove the driver's side wheels. That's about it.
I checked mine while I had my pan off.

B) Get those ideas out of your head completely. I would not even be thinking about trying to connect crankwalk to pulling the transmission. Oh, and adjust your own clutch. The shop will not do it correctly unless they're DSM specific. Just get them to do their part and you can take care of the rest. - But I don't mean to indicate that it's unreasonable to think that a properly adjusted clutch would be included in a rebuild.

Always do things yourself, because the last time I went to a "reputable" mechanic, the clutch was never adjusted, and it is not difficult at all! The number one way to make sure your car is in good shape is doing shit yourself, so you always know it's done right.

Just my .02

[PieEyedPiper]

Originally Posted by H4G64T

I hate these posts. I hate these posts. I hate these posts. I hate these posts.

Okay that was my attempt to dissipate some of my rage.

1. Why are you posting this? Why are you reading about crankwalk? Are you Chicken Little? This is something you worry about if and when it happens and not just because you own a 2G.

2. Anybody with a digital caliper can check for endshaft play. There is a huge article online that shows how, use Google for a few minutes and I promise you will find it.

3. 6 bolts crankwalk too. Covered by Justin, but to drive the point home:

4g63t 6 bolt crank walk - YouTube

4. Outside of using high zinc oil and disabling your clutch switch, you can largely avoid Crankwalk by not slamming stock bearings with heavy pressure plates. Mitsubishi never designed the car with the idea that an ACT 2600 should be on it.

This is pretty much exaclty the post I wanted to post. Nice.