Built Head on 24psi, Only 300hp... Look at my Log

[Kingarex]

Hello All, this is my first post!!!!

So, I'm coming from the Honda world. I've built 4 Boosted Hondas, Sold 1 and Had 3 stolen... My last one was an 11 second Turbo LS/Vtec Type R... I spent $17,000 on engine work over 7 years and then a whopping $1,300 on Anti-Theft and it was stolen the next day like it was no big deal. Needless to say, I'm done. I went out and spent $7k on a 95 GSX and some good engine work.

Here are my mods:

2.0 L (7 bolt)Engine with 132k
-Evo 3 16G
-Magnaflow 3" exhaust (With Highflow Cat)
-FP turbo manifold
-Evo 3 intake manifold
-DSMlink v3 with cord
-ETS street fmic kit 3 inch
-Greddy BOV recirculated
-Injen intake CARB legal
-Walbro 255 lph fuel pump
-FIC 1050cc injectors
-AEM Fuel Rail
-Fuel Lab Pressure regulator
-S70 Throttle body
-HKS 264/272 Cams
-Manly Titanium valve springs/Retainers
-ARP Headstuds
-Cometic Headgasket (only 1k miles on it)
-ACT 2100 Clutch
-ACT 8lbs Flywheel
-AEM UEGO Wideband
-AEM Digital Boost

It was Dyno Tuned at English Racing in Portland and it only made 300 Whp on 22psi... This seems way too low to me. I have friends with similar builds well over 400hp and guys on stock builds with headstuds and a headgasket matching me... what's the deal?

I live in Spokane Washington, so when I got here I changed the altitude to 2300ft, added in the 15% drivetrain power loss, and weighed the car at the dump. (2,660lbs with myself and a passenger, and 3 Type R 10's in the trunk) it made roughly 321hp according to ECMlink

So here's a log i made in ECMlink V3. It's a 3rd gear pull on 22psi from 2k to around 7k (with brief surges up to 24psi) The car runs fine, it just feels lacking. I find it hard to believe that with a built head, full fuel system and double the boost, i'm only gaining 70hp... please advise..


(Also, you'll see that my throttle position is only at 87%.. It was all the way to the floor, how do I address this?

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Use the TPS Adjust feature.

What fuel is this on? I see only 6.x degrees of timing out the top.

There is no WB logged either.. AFRs? I see the DA table wants 11.5:1 but I have no way of really confirming that without a logged UEGO

I was making the same airflow at the same boost on a 14B on my old Laser.

Switch to E85, get aggressive on the timing, spike that E316G into the 30s and wind it out on those cams till it starts to choke.

That should at least get you approaching low 400whp range

Then again, maybe there was a reason the ER guys called it a day at ~300whp

[Kingarex]

Use the TPS Adjust feature.

I considered that, but I'm not sure how to "dial it in" Can you get a little more in-depth without going way over my head? I'm new to ECMlink, but experienced in Forced Induction.

What fuel is this on? I see only 6.x degrees of timing out the top.

They tuned it on 91 octane (The highest available there, I'm running 91 in this fill up, but usually run 92)

There is no WB logged either.. AFRs? I see the DA table wants 11.5:1 but I have no way of really confirming that without a logged UEGO

1st) I don't know what the abbreviation "DA" stands for.
2nd) I don't know if the UEGO is wired up for logging and just not selected in ECMlink, or if it still needs wired in... but my gauge reads low to mid 11's under full boost.

Switch to E85, get aggressive on the timing, spike that E316G into the 30s and wind it out on those cams till it starts to choke.

We only have one E85 pump in town and it's 45 miles from my house. So I can't do that. Would you mind teaching me how to "Get aggressive on the timing" in my experience (Honda) you retard it exponentially per pound of boost, is it different here? or are there specific values? and the 16g is working it's hardest. I have a Greddy Profec 2 and it's turned all the way up and she only makes 22psi with small spikes to 25psi max

Then again, maybe there was a reason the ER guys called it a day at ~300whp

Could be, but I just had them add ARP studs and run a quick Dyno. They only bumped up the boost 1.5psi. And as a matter of fact, he said "you're getting boost creep" so they probably didn't even turn it up...

[asrdave]

Go to ecmlink.com and go to the demos. Very informative stuff, it shows you how to do stuff step by step in video form.

[Kingarex]

Dang, that's awesome... So much to learn, and they make it so easy.. Big Thanks for that link. But I'm still looking for pointers from you seasoned tuners. Please keep up the opinions

[gusu]

If you want a good tune ask for Lucas to tune it for you. He is a bit spendy as of lately but he is worth every cent. He makes miracles happen.

My friend spent 650 for a few parts, a tune and three pulls. I don't know the part cost but i think it would have been in the 350 range for the tune and dyno.

When I've seen huge numbers on a e3 its been 28ish psi, I've seen people run more boost, but I believe they were clipped at that point so unless yours is going past that may not be helpful. Lucas will help you get there if you give him a power goal. He is a awesome guy.

[RvlutionMtrsprt]

Did you even read his post? The car was already tuned at ER.

[richard33]

300whp on a 16g with pump gas and weak timing seems about right actually. When I dynoed my car I made 280 on like 18lbs when I was on pump gas. Unfortunately with that bad gas you cant get too aggressive with the timing or boost. Check for boost leaks to find out why the boost wont go up also.

[Kingarex]

First off, I'm beginning to think that ER didn't tune my car at all, I think they just added my headstuds and headgasket and did a dyno pull. I assumed a tune was included in dyno time, but i must be mistaken. Things are not very accurate for such a reputable place which tells me they didn't tune it.

Also, to those of you reccomending that I have people tune it for me, thank you for your suggestions, but i'm trying to learn so I can be independent. I'm moving into the country and wont be able to drive 6 hours for a tune everytime I change something.









So I spent all day tuning. Here's what I did.

Changed the Injector size and deadtime (It showed 776cc's @45psi Base fuel pressure, when I'm actually at 1050cc's @30psi which I raised to 43psi from my FPR and then logged accordingly.)

I tuned my Air and Fuel at Idle via MAF Comp and Global Deadtime (with the walkthrough on ECMlink/Demos)

I did a cruise Log and then let ECMlink do the MAFComp Adjust based on the Log

I correctly set my TPS to 0-100%

and lastly I tuned out almost all of my Knock retard.


Now all of the sudden my Wideband (Which isn't programmed for logging) shows 12.8 under boost which is scary lean at 22psi.
It was at 11.4 before I did all of this. I'll attach an updated short 3rd gear pull log.



WHAT AM I DOING WRONG!!!!!

[WES_393]

The biggest issue I can see is the timing. It's very low, the most advanced your timing ever got was 3.9* BTDC. That is likely where your power loss is coming from. I assume you pulled the timing because of knock, but if your A/F Estimate is anywhere close to your actual A/F Ratio, your knocking from running too lean. If you got your A/F ratio to a richer level (around 11.2 or a tad higher if possible) you would be able to run much more timing and boost than you are now. So once you get your wideband hooked up, I would first take these steps to get your A/F ratio estimate and wideband to match on the log.

maftcalibrationbywbo2 [ECMTuning - wiki]

Then I would suggest trying out the stock Evo tables or even the Evo Mod 1 tables. The stock Evo tables did wonders for me when I was having knock issues.

evo8v3settings [ECMTuning - wiki]

If the Evo tables work out good, then add timing until you see knock and then back it off a bit. 22psi is really starting to wake up that 16g so with good timing and A/F ratios you should see quite a difference.

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Coolant temps are causing the ECU to pull some timing and on the DA (direct access) tables the most timing it is aiming for out the top is 5* advance, but because of the ~215* coolant temps it is pulling a degree or two of timing.

Detach the tables and follow your sweeps to try and smooth them out. For now your MaxOct Fuel table looks fine but if you are running lean as indicated by the UEGO try dumping some more fuel through those cells first..

If you are regularly only moving ~29-30lbs/min and you dyno'd out at ~300awhp you are pretty much where you should expect to be.

If you were moving ~35lbs/min and only seeing ~300 on a dyno jet and ~320 in link (with the correct settings for weight/gearing/etc) then I would be worried.

[nfernotalon]

Also I believe you're used to the high compression motors from Hondas, these are low compression motors it takes more boost to make power. For 22psi on the 16g it sounds about right. Turn up the boost or I'd get a bigger turbo.

[RvlutionMtrsprt]

You should ask Quinton if he had ER tune it when they did the head gasket. I thought he told me that he paid for them to tune the v3 link. I remember being at his house when Lucas was sending him dyno power updates. It's possible that he just paid them to make some pulls with it after the work was done but I'm fairly certain he wanted a full tune so he could sell you the car running well.

[YZFR1]

Originally Posted by WES_393

The biggest issue I can see is the timing. It's very low, the most advanced your timing ever got was 3.9* BTDC.

No wonder it is making sh*t for power, i don't see any reason to run such low numbers on your set up. I hope you have an EGT gauge as i would've been worried running it that low for too long. Could start melting your exhaust valves, manifold and turbo blades.. easily. It's almost like running a permanent anti-lag, which is not good for extended preriods.

I would ask for my money back!

[andyb2637]

Originally Posted by YZFR1

I would ask for my money back!

What are the chances. Did he get a reciept?? Should have everything he paid for listed. If not they'll most likey look like this....

[GSTurbo1]

something isnt right... on my 420a, on 5psi i'm pushing 233 whp.

Have you checked compression

[DSMer541]

Originally Posted by Kingarex

First off, I'm beginning to think that ER didn't tune my car at all, I think they just added my headstuds and headgasket and did a dyno pull. I assumed a tune was included in dyno time, but i must be mistaken. Things are not very accurate for such a reputable place which tells me they didn't tune it.

Also, to those of you reccomending that I have people tune it for me, thank you for your suggestions, but i'm trying to learn so I can be independent. I'm moving into the country and wont be able to drive 6 hours for a tune everytime I change something.

So I spent all day tuning. Here's what I did.

Changed the Injector size and deadtime (It showed 776cc's @45psi Base fuel pressure, when I'm actually at 1050cc's @30psi which I raised to 43psi from my FPR and then logged accordingly.)

I tuned my Air and Fuel at Idle via MAF Comp and Global Deadtime (with the walkthrough on ECMlink/Demos)

I did a cruise Log and then let ECMlink do the MAFComp Adjust based on the Log

I correctly set my TPS to 0-100%

and lastly I tuned out almost all of my Knock retard.


Now all of the sudden my Wideband (Which isn't programmed for logging) shows 12.8 under boost which is scary lean at 22psi.
It was at 11.4 before I did all of this. I'll attach an updated short 3rd gear pull log.



WHAT AM I DOING WRONG!!!!!

try getting you AFR in the mid 10's just to be safe for now... then start adding in some timing from 5.5k up till you see knock, then back it down a click, then start pullin fuel till you see knock and then back it down a couple points, boom done.... 10.6-10.8 afr seems to be the sweet spot for me on crappy 92oct pump...

[Kingarex]

I really appreciate the help, these are all awesome suggestions. The coolant temp is running a tad high because 1) It was 90 degrees outside and I spent alot of time at stop lights during that last log, and 2)the FP exhaust manifold slowly melted down one of my plastic radiator fans, so i'm relying on just one fan when i'm parked. I'm currently waiting on my Mishimoto.

Today, I'll wire my UEGO to datalog, then I'll add fuel till I see 10.8's at WOT, and then start creeping the timing until knock is found and back her off a tad and then repost... any other tips?

Also, I really appreciate the patience and helpfulness. I know that i'm not where I should be, but learning takes time, and stupid questions/actions will arise.. please bear with me fellas!!!!!

Dumb question warning


1) do you adjust fuel via the "Fuel Adjustment Table" do I just pick an RPM range and start sliding?

2) where do you add timing?

Flame gently lol

[MY1GDSM]

Why not just call up English Racing and ask them for some details?

Seems like you come out an say they tuned it like you paid them then turn around and say that's in the air

If you didn't have them yourself it's best to contact people directly to ask before putting peoples names out like that.

From what I see I kind of doubt that they did... . Or if it did get dyno time it was just that.

But, IDK I could be wrong... Either way you can't expect record numbers on piss 91 and as said our motors are low compretion so it's going to take a bit more boost and better fuel then what your use to to make bigger numbers. Not everyone can make 350+ on a 16g let alone on pump. A good thing to keep in mind is this is a 2g 7bolt... .

From what you're saying it sound about close to what you should be(not that you couldn't make more) though I'd be interested to see a real Dyno sheet first.


EDIT:

From what I see you asking not to be rude but if your asking these questions you shouldn't be changing anything on your own yet... .

[Kingarex]

I hate that people say "Not to be rude" and then immediately become rude.

So you're saying, that since i'm not born with the knowledge of how to tune a brand new platform, i shouldn't try to learn, and continue to pay money for bullsh!t tunes that I have verified have been paid for and not recieved?

Thats exactly the kind of "help" that this forum doesnt need. Nothing like signing up just to have some guy say, If you don't know, don't touch it...

Granted, I'm aware of the reprocussions of improper tuning, but it's not rocket science, nor is it hard to tell when something is wrong. That's why i'm on here. I'm saying "here is my problem, how is it resolved?"

Furthermore, I'm not new to tuning, I'm only new to ECMlink, and the needs of a lower compression engine..

So I welcome your opinions, as long as they promote further POSITIVE discussion.

[MY1GDSM]

Originally Posted by Kingarex

So you're saying, that since i'm not born with the knowledge of how to tune a brand new platform, i shouldn't try to learn, and continue to pay money for bullsh!t tunes that I have verified have been paid for and not recieved?

Don't make assumptions...

I'm saying till you "learn" Ecmlink with blindly tring to set things up like that...
You're going to be chasing your proverbial tail with out a full understanding of what your doing an all the aspects of it.

With out gett ot off topic...

I was truly not trying to be rude.

But, people's attitudes are everything to me... Your sucks.

You may have the knowledge to tune it... . But, doesn't look like it from your questions so regardless good luck to you. I don't have any help to give an rarely help people out side of work anymore(let alone on my day off) because of shit attitudes like that and there are only a handful of people that trully give good help here as well. Keep that in mind the next time you want to snap at people.

Good day... .

[MichaelSuch]

Kingarex, go to your fuel adjustments table and zero it out. You are pulling fuel and that could be why you are running a little lean. Never use the Sliders for tuning, always use the direct access tables if you want to make adjustments for fuel and timing.

Next go to your Direct Access (DA) tables, and revert OpenLoopThresholds and OpenLoopMaxOctane back to stock settings and re-save to your ECU. The OpenLoopMaxOctane is way too lean for my liking, start back at stock for now until you get your wideband wired to the ECU for datalogging.

Next I would wire in the wideband for logging to make tuning easier.

So please zero the adjustments and revert the DA tables (except timing, leave it where its at for now, as they are fairly safe, too much timing will cause detonation and lead to internal engine damage) to stock. Do another log preferably with the engine a little cooler and a third gear pull. With it this hot out I usually do my tuning at night. Then post back with your log.

[Kingarex]

I'm not snapping at anybody. I'm approaching your comment directly. I assumed nothing, you outrightly stated that I shouldn't mess around with things that I know nothing about.

I have a wonderful attitude, in fact I have an attitude of humility and humbleness. I'm bending to the knowledge of those that know more. But being attacked by a random person both in my "assumption" of a garbage tune (that was in fact paid for and not recieved) as well as an attack at my efforts to correct that problem is not something that is going to bring out a happy, fun response.

If you have a way to teach me something, please, by all means, write it up. I'll absolutely listen to you quietly, and try to apply those teachings. Like I said, I'm not proud, or cocky in any way. I'm fully aware that i'm lacking the knowledge needed to fully tune. So i'm hitting up ECMlink.com for video's and forums, as well as friends in town and obviously this website.

I don't want this thread to turn into a fight. So my apologies to all and lets get back on track!!!

[MichaelSuch]

Originally Posted by MichaelSuch

Kingarex, go to your fuel adjustments table and zero it out. You are pulling fuel and that could be why you are running a little lean. Never use the Sliders for tuning, always use the direct access tables if you want to make adjustments for fuel and timing.

Next go to your Direct Access (DA) tables, and revert OpenLoopThresholds and OpenLoopMaxOctane back to stock settings and re-save to your ECU. The OpenLoopMaxOctane is way too lean for my liking, start back at stock for now until you get your wideband wired to the ECU for datalogging.

Next I would wire in the wideband for logging to make tuning easier.

So please zero the adjustments and revert the DA tables (except timing, leave it where its at for now, as they are fairly safe, too much timing will cause detonation and lead to internal engine damage) to stock. Do another log preferably with the engine a little cooler and a third gear pull. With it this hot out I usually do my tuning at night. Then post back with your log.

Also one more thing, check your base timing and make sure it's 5*btdc.

[YZFR1]

Kingarex,

if you would like to fix this mess yourself, my suggestion would be as follows:

1. Drop the boost to wastegate spring pressure
2. Make sure you have a good afr across the board
3. Interpolate factory timing values into your map http://jeffgst.com/id20.html
(you can trim them a little for safety but that should be a good starting point, also note that 1g's have more aggressive timing and 2g's more conservative)
4. Watch for knock!!
5. When everything above looks fine, start raising boost slowly

That should be a good starting point. Hope this helps somewhat.

[MY1GDSM]

Originally Posted by Kingarex

I'm not snapping at anybody. I'm approaching your comment directly. I assumed nothing, you outrightly stated that I shouldn't mess around with things that I know nothing about.

Keep in mind, I only said... Yet.

Blindly fallowing every suggestion for any Joe on here may or may not help you out. Their are a few good suggestions in the thread. But a few I don't 100% agree with either. like the TPS, it's a Better thing to do with it out of adjustment more then a few % to actualy check the TPS and throttle linkage. more so being this is a2g

Just my opinion though... .

Here is some info on the RIGHT way to adjust things

2G's critical adjustment is the Idle Position Switch that's part of the TPS.
The manual has you place a 0.0177" (0.45mm) feeler guage between the stop screw and the throttle pulley to open the butterfly and then adjust the TPS right to where the IPS (pins 3 and 4) switches from closed to open. Then they have you verify that the TPS (pin 2 and 4) reads between .4 and 1V while the feeler guage is still in place.
Anything in that range is ok as long as the IPS is adjusted correctly.
There is no way to adjust the TPS voltage independantly of the IPS on a 2G that I can see.

So basically

1. Loosen the 2 TPS screws.
2. Put a feeler gauge of .0177" under the stop screw
3. Turn the car to the ON position (start a log)
4. Rotate the TPS until pins 3 & 4 lose continuity (open) YOU can see this in al log under IdleSW
5. Verify that the voltage between pins 2 & 4 is .4-1 volt with the feeler still in. look at TPSvolt in a log
6. Tighten TPS bolts and remove feeler gauge.
7. Verify that the pins 3 & 4 have continuity (shorted) when the throttle is closed and don't have continuity (open) when you open the throttle slightly. (in a log 1 is a active state an 0 is inactive)

The whole purpose of adjusting the TPS on a 2G is to make sure that the Idle Position Switch inside the TPS is telling the ECU when the throttle is closed.

While we can do this with the ECMlink "tool" then simulate the Idleswitch I don't like too as it can cause problems as well.

Anyway, Make sure before doing this make sure that your throttle linkage is adjusted, so that it's not holding open the throttle an so that it can open the throttle all the way...

Not that anything is wrong with TPS adjust to address what's left after that ^

But a lot of people make suggestion to things on here that are a "fix" that can in the end turn cause more issues then they solve.

Not really directing that at anyone just in general as this happens a lot that I see... .

Originally Posted by Kingarex

I have a wonderful attitude, in fact I have an attitude of humility and humbleness. I'm bending to the knowledge of those that know more. But being attacked by a random person both in my "assumption" of a garbage tune (that was in fact paid for and not recieved) as well as an attack at my efforts to correct that problem is not something that is going to bring out a happy, fun response.

As far as the "tune" I'm just saying that being you did not post a Dyno sheet and/or deal with ER yourself it would be best to. If at the time you had not talk to someone directly to do so before posting an do some fact checking They are local to me and I've never heard anything like what your saying. An I know myself would like the benefit of the doubt if someone was calling me out for something "I did" when I never even dealt with them to begin with.

This goes for most anything on the fourms though as far as doing your home work. Make sure you try to find out what you can on your own by seaching before asking simple questions. Not saying that people won't be happy to awsner or you shouldn't ask. Jsut that people are a lot more willing to help out if you have wrapped your head around what your dealing with first a bit. and don't ask the "why can't I vent my BOV" type questions... .

I'm not sure you had/have a huge problem right now, just wanting more power then what your at there are some steps obviously to take. It's important to keep in mind there are a lot of ways to "fry a fish" so to speak.

Just, because things don't look like what people think they should look some way doesn't they think they should mean the way it is "wrong" or won't work so to say. there are a few things people get caught up with "doing it the Ecmlink way" this is the main reason I say anything of this.

Originally Posted by Kingarex

If you have a way to teach me something, please, by all means, write it up. I'll absolutely listen to you quietly, and try to apply those teachings. Like I said, I'm not proud, or cocky in any way. I'm fully aware that i'm lacking the knowledge needed to fully tune. So i'm hitting up ECMlink.com for video's and forums, as well as friends in town and obviously this website.

I don't want this thread to turn into a fight. So my apologies to all and lets get back on track!!!

Being you out right said you will listen (as a lot of people either don't listen to perfectly good advice an only like to address what. They think is the problem) I may try to look over All your logs an any changes you made an shoot you some help if I have some free time today later.

I DO have a few things I'd like to actually add to the thread to Actually Help at this point jsut not the free time to say more then I have already. gotta run... .

EDIT

Oh the Comment on setting the FUEL table back to stock I dis-agree if anything just change for now the 11.5 values to something closer to the 10.8-11:1 range (if trying to re-dial things in) an only if you hitting your targets with the settigns you. Have an while looking a log comparing your target AFR in DA to your actual AFR... Also, Being I happen to see you have a AEM wideband keep in mind that when you get the wideband logging that a lot of AEM gauges don't play nice with link. An the the drop downs for the right gauge don't always work... Mainly do to the FACT they really suck an have a lot of grounding issues IMO.(I'd recomend a Inovate LC-1) ... Though it't more common on 1g's from my experience an has to do with the inputs your using as well.

So you may need to "calibrate the w/b" by settign the gauge as a linerwideband output an changing the settiings in the logged value for it under " linerwideband" just as I said something to keep in mind when you get to that point.

[BrokenTsi]

Ignore the fact that you're injectors say 775cc and you're running 1050cc injectors. Its normal to make adjustments like that when tuning and a good tuner will know this and it was adjusted for a reason. On vehicles that I've tuned, i've never used the suggested value for global. I always came up with something different.

300whp on a 16g on 91 octane and very conservative tuning sounds very good to me. It shows me that you have a lot of room left....with better gas.

Timing is being pulled because you're running a tad warm up top (with a tiny bit of knock, w hich is OK). I don't know what your AFRs are, but for pump gas, I'm sure ER made sure it was good. Other than that....there's not much more you can do for your tune being so limited on 91 octane.


for those complaining about having target AFR's match actual AFR's, and this and that......having it match up is nice and all...but it doesn't make your car run any better or faster. Each tuner has their own method, and in the end...you will have the same results or close to the same results. If he wants to use the sliders....then he will. If he wants to sit there and dial in all the DA tables, he will.....

Sure, on my car....my Afratioest matches my wideband, I don't use the fuel sliders or timing sliders if I dont have to, everything is dialed in and looks perfect..............HOWEVER....it took me a VERY long time to do so. How much is dyno tuning per hour nowadays?

There isn't a ton of knock, AFR's are good, boost is where you want it for the gas you're using. Looks tuned to me.


Also, the tuner is very limited to the method of tuning since you don't have boost and your wideband datalogged. They have to make a pull and watch the wideband in real time and keep their eyes on everything else.

I refuse to tune a car that is not datalogging wideband and boost, but thats just me.

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Originally Posted by LandSpeed-DSM

Coolant temps are causing the ECU to pull some timing and on the DA (direct access) tables the most timing it is aiming for out the top is 5* advance, but because of the ~215* coolant temps it is pulling a degree or two of timing.

Detach the tables and follow your sweeps to try and smooth them out. For now your MaxOct Fuel table looks fine but if you are running lean as indicated by the UEGO try dumping some more fuel through those cells first..

If you are regularly only moving ~29-30lbs/min and you dyno'd out at ~300awhp you are pretty much where you should expect to be.

If you were moving ~35lbs/min and only seeing ~300 on a dyno jet and ~320 in link (with the correct settings for weight/gearing/etc) then I would be worried.

Originally Posted by BrokenTsi

Ignore the fact that you're injectors say 775cc and you're running 1050cc injectors. Its normal to make adjustments like that when tuning and a good tuner will know this and it was adjusted for a reason. On vehicles that I've tuned, i've never used the suggested value for global. I always came up with something different.

300whp on a 16g on 91 octane and very conservative tuning sounds very good to me. It shows me that you have a lot of room left....with better gas.

Timing is being pulled because you're running a tad warm up top (with a tiny bit of knock, w hich is OK). I don't know what your AFRs are, but for pump gas, I'm sure ER made sure it was good. Other than that....there's not much more you can do for your tune being so limited on 91 octane.


for those complaining about having target AFR's match actual AFR's, and this and that......having it match up is nice and all...but it doesn't make your car run any better or faster. Each tuner has their own method, and in the end...you will have the same results or close to the same results. If he wants to use the sliders....then he will. If he wants to sit there and dial in all the DA tables, he will.....

Sure, on my car....my Afratioest matches my wideband, I don't use the fuel sliders or timing sliders if I dont have to, everything is dialed in and looks perfect..............HOWEVER....it took me a VERY long time to do so. How much is dyno tuning per hour nowadays?

There isn't a ton of knock, AFR's are good, boost is where you want it for the gas you're using. Looks tuned to me.


Also, the tuner is very limited to the method of tuning since you don't have boost and your wideband datalogged. They have to make a pull and watch the wideband in real time and keep their eyes on everything else.

I refuse to tune a car that is not datalogging wideband and boost, but thats just me.

Pretty much my sentiments on the matter. 300whp on 29-30lbs/min on pump witha 16G is right where you would want to be, especially with single digit advance out the top end.

[YZFR1]

I'm astonished to see that noone has seemed to mention to the OP that running <5 degrees of timing could make him torch his exhaust components without him even knowing it.

If you have to run such low timing just to keep knock at bay then you need to lower boost or use better fuel. One or the other, running super low timing is not the best solution to the problem.

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Knowing his AFRs would help make that call (Re: Excessive EGT), but even then it would only be speculation.