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I'd like to hear your opinion (kinda long)

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rhtwng2

10+ Year Contributor
88
2
Feb 1, 2009
Portland, Oregon
Well over the past 3.5yrs I've dumped excessive amounts of money into my 2G GSX and ended up crank walking my very expensive long rod 7bolt 2.1 de-stroked monster.
You can go to profile and see just how built this engine is, and since I'm not into drag racing it would get down the pavement awfully quick.
I was finally able to ekk out 421whp out of it.
I'm just so frustrated with this and since I was let go from my job in Sept. that makes it all the worse.
I just don't know what to do however I know that I have plenty of options. I took a ride yesterday in this guy's bone stock 1G with a PE60 ( I believe that is what he said) and that thing moved out.
I think that he could have smoked my 10k engine that I have.

So I want to hear from you guys.

Rebuild the current engine
6 Bolt swap/7bolt head
full 6bolt swap
6bolt stroker 2.1 2.3
is a 2.1 6bolt possible...
 
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I would do a full six bolts swap. It will probably the best option as for the best bang for your bucks but I see your head is pretty built. To save ton of money and headache you can do the 6 bolts block and use your 7bolt head. You already have the ecm link that will save you a lot of time and money. Also you can do the 1G 6bolts rods and 2G pistons for the internal. If you look around people put down pretty decent power with this setup.
 
I would do a full six bolts swap. It will probably the best option as for the best bang for your bucks but I see your head is pretty built. To save ton of money and headache you can do the 6 bolts block and use your 7bolt head. You already have the ecm link that will save you a lot of time and money. Also you can do the 1G 6bolts rods and 2G pistons for the internal. If you look around people put down pretty decent power with this setup.

Hey cianfar, actually if I remember correctly that was suggested yesterday however I'd have to buy the 2g pistons/rings. I will look into this combo and thanks for your opinion...it is valued...:applause:
 
It depends on what you want to do with the car. The cheapest option is a 6-bolt swap and it would have held your 421 ponies.

And why would you use a Topline crank when OEM ones are good for way more power than you're be looking at?

the shop that built the engine ordered up a 2.1 de-stroked kit from Slo-Boys Racing and according to their site that is what came with the kit.

Yeah I know, however I'll never deal with SBR ever again....DON'T even start that engine...it redlines in nutin flat
 
I have a Friend with the same situation ,the end of 3 years he decided to go with a stock 6 bolt and the already built 7 bolt head, he is way more happy now, we just took the car to UMS on Phoenix and he is pushing 350 whp with our crappy 91 octane gas. I guess he can get better numbers with race gas or at least e85 but we don't have e85 in around 70 miles.

In my opinion do that, try to find a 6 bolt and spend as much as you want on that block.

regards.
 
no problem! Like knochgoon24 mention you should use the OE crank. Beside that you should research as much as you can. I think you can probably pick up a 6bolts short block for couple hundreds on classified section.
 
Is anyone else wondering why a 10k dollar engine only laid down 421hp?

I can name a few people with the same or more power, that spent much much less on the engine.And also more or same on a stock block.
 
6 bolt swaps are a pain in the ass and a waste of time and money. First off, I would put money of the fact that your block does not have crankwalk. You have a 98-99 split thrust bearing block. A 6 bolt is just as likely to CW as the split thrust 7 bolt. Second, why waste money for a 6 bolt when a 7 bolt engine is significantly less. And then you have to make modifications to get the 6 bolt to fit when a 7 bolt will drop right in. I would just rebuild your 7 bolt and call it a day.
 
Its a pain in the back if you don't have the proper information or skills/tools and depends on the owner's wallet and the goals that he wants to meet.

I'm still running on my 7 bolts without problems but many of the DD DSM owners here follow the conversion to 6 bolt or a "Frankenstain" 7 bolt/evo pistons 6 bolt rods because Its cheap, functional and decent power can be made.
 
I don't see a point in wasting the time looking up the proper info, wasting the money on the proper tools when you can just keep your 7 bolt and avoid all of the hassle. Especially when less than 1% of 7 bolts actually experienced CW and they are capable of just as much power as the 6 bolt.
 
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Is anyone else wondering why a 10k dollar engine only laid down 421hp?

I can name a few people with the same or more power, that spent much much less on the engine.And also more or same on a stock block.

Thanks for trashing on me without asking why I've got so much into it. But then I could be a couple of grand off with all the upgrades that I've done...
 
6 bolt swaps are a pain in the ass and a waste of time and money. First off, I would put money of the fact that your block does not have crankwalk. You have a 98-99 split thrust bearing block. A 6 bolt is just as likely to CW as the split thrust 7 bolt. Second, why waste money for a 6 bolt when a 7 bolt engine is significantly less. And then you have to make modifications to get the 6 bolt to fit when a 7 bolt will drop right in. I would just rebuild your 7 bolt and call it a day.

Pain in the ass huh, i guess if you call grinding a section from the driver mount bracket a pain in the ass than is it. It seriously takes an extra 5 minutes to modify the bracket and another 10 to wire up the cam angle sensor. A stock block 6 volt will easily handle the power he was making, i don't see it as a waste of time at all.

Is anyone else wondering why a 10k dollar engine only laid down 421hp?

I can name a few people with the same or more power, that spent much much less on the engine.And also more or same on a stock block.

Probably because he was only running a turbo big enough to make that horsepower at the psi he was running. Just because the engine is built doesn't mean it is going to make more horsepower than a stock engine.
 
swap to a 6bolt, in the long run it will be worth it, IMO its not that much extra work..just the cas and some time with a grinder...but to each his own, and it will definatley hold the power your looking for...you could also use your 7bolt head to save some money since you are recently out of a job.

if you do end up rebuilding the 7bolt,use the oem crank as other above have posted.
 
Pain in the ass huh, i guess if you call grinding a section from the driver mount bracket a pain in the ass than is it. It seriously takes an extra 5 minutes to modify the bracket and another 10 to wire up the cam angle sensor. A stock block 6 volt will easily handle the power he was making, i don't see it as a waste of time at all.



Probably because he was only running a turbo big enough to make that horsepower at the psi he was running. Just because the engine is built doesn't mean it is going to make more horsepower than a stock engine.

your correct in your assessment there: I was in a bind and had to upgrade my turbo and the one that I ended up getting was not what I should have gotten. Hindsight I should have just added another grand and got a BB turbo and that would have made the difference. My motor was just to much for it and it was surging big time..here's a video on the surging I was having

Jeffs 415whp good example of compressor surge. - YouTube
 
So thats what compressor surge sounds like. What exactly IS it? I thought it was when your bov didnt open properly and the c ompressed air has no where to go and basically damages your comp wheel. huh...
 
Pain in the ass huh, i guess if you call grinding a section from the driver mount bracket a pain in the ass than is it. It seriously takes an extra 5 minutes to modify the bracket and another 10 to wire up the cam angle sensor. A stock block 6 volt will easily handle the power he was making, i don't see it as a waste of time at all.



6 bolt swap

Looks like more than 15 min of work to me. And none of that justifies spending all of that extra money on a 6 bolt engine when he has a split thrust bearing engine. A 7 bolt will also handle the power he was making, no problem. On top of all of that, I would put money on the fact that he doesn't even have CW.

The OP hasn't even said what was wrong with his car. He might not even need a rebuild. Sounds like he jumped on the CW bandwagon and didn't even look into what could possibly be wrong with it.
 
6 bolt swap

Looks like more than 15 min of work to me. And none of that justifies spending all of that extra money on a 6 bolt engine when he has a split thrust bearing engine. On top of all of that, I would put money on the fact that he doesn't even have CW.

Well Is totally true that if is just a split thrust bearing doesn't need to go that far and swap the whole block, but if the engine really has Crankwalk the things are different.

so do you have or not walking Crank?
that's what he said on the initial post.
"ended up crank walking my very expensive long rod 7bolt 2.1 de-stroked monster. "
 
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6 bolt swap

Looks like more than 15 min of work to me. And none of that justifies spending all of that extra money on a 6 bolt engine when he has a split thrust bearing engine. A 7 bolt will also handle the power he was making, no problem. On top of all of that, I would put money on the fact that he doesn't even have CW.

The OP hasn't even said what was wrong with his car. He might not even need a rebuild. Sounds like he jumped on the CW bandwagon and didn't even look into what could possibly be wrong with it.

+1 I would really look into what's wrong with your engine before you go wasting more money on swapping motors
 
I thought the thrust bearing 7-bolt block were only in 99? The op has a 98, so does he have the thrust bearing block or not?


+2 on that. You need to know what your dealing with before making a plan.

98's also had the split thrust engine. You may be thinking of the black interior. Only 99's had that.
 
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