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Rpms drop when clutch pushed in!!!

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DSM Chase

10+ Year Contributor
778
51
Sep 19, 2011
Senoia, Georgia
I have had this problem now for months... I cannot figure it out all my link numberes are good. When the clutch is pushed in while changing gears or at a stop light the rpms will drop, Also when i rev it up and let off the gas it rpm drops.... sometimes even shut off :(. My ISC motor tested good all coils at 29 OHMS...

Also my BOV is resirculated...
7lb lighter than stock flywheel
simulating idle switch on LINK
Link idle setting at 1k
battery at 13.5v

TPS is at 0.68 at idle and 5.0V at WOT so its good?

ECMLINK Log file.... Its towards the end of the log i am driving down the road and then when i go to turn into my driveway when i pushed the clutch in it happend... Im going about 13MPH when it happens drops to around 400-500RPMS then shoots back to 1000...Log is at the bottom In the Attached Files..

Quick video of it rev RPM dropping, does same thing with clutch in or in neutral


RPM Drop ISSUE - YouTube
 

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There's a couple different causes to this, but post up a log for starters and any mods.

The only time I've personally ever had this problem was when my MAF was going bad.
 
im gonna agree with the previous post the maf might be on its way out or i would check the tps sensor that might be on its way out too
 
rpms should drop when switching gears. now, when you are in neutral and you push it in and it drops that could be bad.

Idk how, at rest, the clutch should be engaged, and at a stop, that would drop rpms to a stall. then pressing the pedal, should release pressure and friction and allow the car to idle (raise rpm) I cannot possibly see how pressing the clutch drops rpms unless the car is in motion.

I mean the clutch is a pretty simple system. if the pivot ball os over shimmed then clutch may be partially disengaged at rest which would slip and raise rpm not lower. if it is undershimmed then you would have disengagement issues, again that wouldnt lower rpm.

I see no point of going in neutral and taking your foot off the clutch and reving it to see if the car moves (disengagement issue)

I dont really see how that is possible form a clutch standpoint.

So it has to be your idle itself. nothing to do with the clutch. at all.
either you have a racecar bov, (vented) or boost/vac leak. or something else is off, fuel trims, something air/spark/fuel (most likely air or fuel) that is affecting proper idle. So you have a wideband hooked up and logging?
 
my car did this after dsmlink install the new version ecmlink should take car of this problem with the idle clamp feature . what i do so it doesn't stall is try lifting off the gas while still in gear and then putting it in neutral and rolling to a stop. if that works then its the link for sure. i had dsm chips before link and car never stalled. the worst is in parking lot maneuvers
 
Its a steel lightened flywheel 7lbs lighter than stock, came with my competition 6 puck clutch



Also could this be a spark problem? Like a coil pack or plug wire issue, randomly, not always when I fire it I will get a check engine light and in my link it will say a random misfire detected or #2 cylinder misfire detected.... Plugs are brand new bpr7es gapped at .25
 
I vote check crankshaft endplay. I know that noone wants to hear this, but this happened to my car exactly as you described it. Turned out that I had a lot of endplay in the crank. Just check it to put your mind at ease.
 
TPS should be closer to 0.63 at idle. Make sure the idle switch is -1 at idle and throttle position reads 0%. Your ISC should read about 30. Try to get all these values correct without using Link to "simulate" if you can. I solved a lot of idle problems when I took the time to make sure everything was set correctly.
 
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