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how to tell if cv joint is bad

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Saturdee

10+ Year Contributor
405
0
Nov 9, 2010
Duncannon, Pennsylvania
I tried searching but everything was symptoms while driving. I got a used drive axle off ebay and I noticed a small rip in the boot that is closest to the wheel. Well how can I tell if it's still in good shape or not? The one I took out of my car turns and moves around very easily, this one feels more stiff to move around.
 
They will usually make a clicking type noise around turns when bad. I'd at least repair the rip in the boot on the new one.... you'll loose the grease that needs to be in there.
 
No I mean how can I tell if the joint is good with it being out of the vehicle. I don't want to put this one in if it's bad, so I want to make sure it's alright first.
 
Is the one on the car make a noise while going straight while accelerating? How about when turning? Is it ripped? If you answered no to all three then there is no reason to replace it. If you do, at least replace the boot that is ripped. As to your question, it should be easy to turn it, the joint should only "bind up" at the extreme angles.
 
So if it's a little stiff, I'm assuming it's not good? I got the axle with the boot ripped, so I'm not sure if before they sold it it was already driven while ripped or what.
 
If the boot is ripped or it clicks when you turn the wheel replace both front half shafts since you have to drain the tranny fluid. Also replace your tranny seals, orilleys has them as well. And they are called half shafts, the cv joint is the actual joint not the entire piece that you would buy from orilleys. It's a bear but it's worth it when it's done. And get new half shafts, do not, I repeat, do not get rebuilt shafts because they will just break again.
 
Once again, the axle is out of the car, so I'm looking for ways to tell if the axle I bought will be okay to use.
 
Where did you buy it from and are you positive it's for a 2g fwd? I am pretty sure that on the passenger side of the car it will be the same as a awd 2g and it will have a ring that you have to pound off but since your not doing egual length half shafts as long as it's for a 2g, I know there might be some tranny differences so try searching, if it has a long shaft it should work.
 
Where did you buy it from and are you positive it's for a 2g fwd? I am pretty sure that on the passenger side of the car it will be the same as a awd 2g and it will have a ring that you have to pound off but since your not doing egual length half shafts as long as it's for a 2g, I know there might be some tranny differences so try searching, if it has a long shaft it should work.

It's from a 2g fwd. They look pretty identical. But I'm gonna play it safe and just buy a new oem one, I don't trust this one coming with a hole in the boot. Knowing my luck it was most likely driven with it and it's in bad condition.

Does it matter if I buy one that is from an automatic transmission? It's a 99 too
 
Sorry I got to this late but when the axle is on the car and you jack the tires up. Move the axle back and forth. If it has 1/4 to 1/2 of play it is bad. A good axle will likely have no play.
I think autos don't fit manuals or are you talking about the whole unit.
 
Yes mine too moves side to side, which is why I am getting ready to change mine out now. I was under the car looking for oil leaks when I noticed both boots torn on the passenger side CV axle. My car is 16 years old so I figured its time to change out both of them since its kind of simple to do.
 
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NAPA sells remanufacturered CV shafts for $65, so why even bother with buying used and then wondering if it's even usable?


The CV shaft is only a series of bearings and races. You'll need to remove that boot (which is no biggie because you need to replace it anyway), and inspect the guts. Make sure there's still a good amount of lubrication (grease) on everything. And make sure there isn't any road debris that made its way in there through the tear in the boot. If you find any at all, then trash it and buy a replacement. If not, once everything is inspected and cleaned out, check the cup and bearings for small cracks and excessive wear. The bearings should move freely and the cup should have even and consistent wear patterns. If everything looks good, then you can re-pack it full of grease, slap on a new boot, and put it all back together.

However, like I said, if it were me, I would've just gone to NAPA to avoid the hassle.
 
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Ok I just got finished changing out the passenger side CV axle. It wasn't too bad an ordeal. I had to figure out how to pump the fluid that came out (about a pint) back into the ESi, but it worked out ok. (Don't worry the fluid was uncontaminated.)I will say this, on 95 Talon ESi's, the filler plug is in a really unreachable place. Took a while to figure out how to do it.
 
Yeah I'm just gonna take the lazy way out and buy a new drive axle. Heck I don't even know how to pop off the clip holding the boot on LOL
 
A tear in any boot spells trouble since anything can get in there and start grinding down on the balls and races-even if it's still full of grease.

A boot is torn - as mentioned before: head to NAPA for a reman shaft (just give them yours as a core).
 
:hellyeah:

You guys should Read the complete Post First.


The only good reasonable answer that I see Is from (99gst_racer) :thumb:


The CV is (OUT) of the Car....

He (NEVER) had it installed in his car before. (JUST BOUGHT IT).




To the OP.

Do what (99gst_racer) said, Check for debris from the road, If you see any dirt inside, replace it.

The CV has to move freely, if it is hard to move it around then is garbage..

But I suggest to go with a new one which is much easier to replace, is not to expensive and gives more peace of mind.
 
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