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how can i get 300hp on a budget

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I just answered one of these threads the other day. When you start typing in a new thread title, similar threads are shown. READ THEM before you post a new thread! SEARCH as well using "title search"

Like mentioned above, follow the upgrade path because you WILL NOT reach your goal with out supporting mods. Before you even do that, you need to do MAINTAINCE and REPAIRS FIRST. When was your timing belt last changed? How about your coolant, motor oil, tranny oil? Do you have any boost leaks? New hoses and lines or replaced bad sensors? How about exhaust leaks preturbo?

Please read and research on this site before asking questions that have been answered MULTIPLE TIMES.

Besides all of that, you never stated a budget...what is it? $300, $1000, $8000? Cheapest parts are going to be in the classifieds and vedor specials. Most things you can't skimp on and go Ebay with because they are complete crap and will break, not work or potentially destroy the motor with their failure (ebay turbos).
 
Used parts:

16g
750s
AFC
FMIC
Walbro
AFPR

Do it right and watch for deals, can do it for less than a grand.
 
Well ive fixed what needed to be fixed, as for my budget, it really doesnt matter, i dont care that much about the price even if it takes six months to get each part. I want it to be as reliable as a DSM could be. now what about a motor rebuild, would a stock rebuild be good enough, or does anyone have experiance with the frankenstien motor from dsm graveyard
 
Well ive fixed what needed to be fixed, as for my budget, it really doesnt matter, i dont care that much about the price even if it takes six months to get each part. I want it to be as reliable as a DSM could be. now what about a motor rebuild, would a stock rebuild be good enough, or does anyone have experiance with the frankenstien motor from dsm graveyard

A stock rebuild is fine for 300hp. 2g rods are good for about 350 while 1g big rods are good for about 4xxhp. The best combo would be 1g rods machined with 2g pistons as the 2g pistons have a higher CR.

Just follow the upgrade path and buy quality parts then if you don't really have a budget and have a time spread.
 
A stock rebuild is fine for 300hp. 2g rods are good for about 350 while 1g big rods are good for about 4xxhp. The best combo would be 1g rods machined with 2g pistons as the 2g pistons have a higher CR.

Just follow the upgrade path and buy quality parts then if you don't really have a budget and have a time spread.

arp heads/studs/etc mls head gasket and such while not necessarily needed would be a good idea too
 
arp heads/studs/etc mls head gasket and such while not necessarily needed would be a good idea too

Just the ARP head studs are fine. MLS is not needed and would require to have the head and block decked. OEM composite is fine for around 28psi. It'll save money and is still reliable
 
Well i has thinking of changing the HG any way, since the car has 193k, supposably the pistons and rings were replaced at 160k, I dont know how much i believe that tho

If you wanted to change the pistons, you will take the head off. Never reuse a gasket even if it's a MLS especially with water, oil or the head. I'll reuse an exhaust manifold gasket as that's easy to replace if it does fail and isn't detrimental if it fails. Everything else, replace it if it's off.

Did they have receipts of the pistons or the work slip?
 
The general rule is, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" If you aren't pushing coolant, then I would assume it's fine. If you plan on doing the OEM rebuild, then you'll get it replaced anyway.
 
If e85 is available in your area than it would be real easy. A stock 1g with safc, maft, injectors, fuel pump, mbc and good old e85 would make 300hp with the right tune. Evo guys make near 400whp on a stock car tuned for e85.
 
Follow the tech guide and make sure you do your research before you buy anything. Theres is always someone selling the same product for cheaper somewhere else. You can get good name brand items even off of craigslist or ebay, just make sure you do your research first and check everything out.
 
Like others stated maintenance first I can not say it enough. Assuming you have a 5-speed with a 14b with no shaft play.

SAFC 1 or 2
Wideband A/F gauge
Evo 8 or 9 fuel pump
3" turboback exhaust
MBC or if your like me holset actuator (cheap and steady boost)
Hack Intake can off
650cc injectors, maybe even 550cc maxed out

All these parts total can be found used for $400-500.
 
Like others stated maintenance first I can not say it enough. Assuming you have a 5-speed with a 14b with no shaft play.

SAFC 1 or 2
Wideband A/F gauge
Evo 8 or 9 fuel pump
3" turboback exhaust
MBC or if your like me holset actuator (cheap and steady boost)
Hack Intake can off
650cc injectors, maybe even 550cc maxed out

All these parts total can be found used for $400-500.

What does being 5-speed have anything to do with this? Your line about "cheap and steady boost" got to me as well. Steady boost is done by the wastegate which you have correct, however what I'm assuming you may be saying that you won't have boost creep/spike issues which would be compelety fasle for both of them as the boost creep will happen from a poor wastegate design for lower boost setting and a high flowing exhaust. The 14b wastegate is fine to use and an MBC is only good if you plan on going UP in PSI from the opening pressure of the wastegate.

If you are just planning on 300 only, then 550's will be fine but more than that 650 will suite you till I would say 350-380hp. 190lph minimum fuel pump and higher flowing pumps will need an AFPR.
 
Race Gas + a MBC.



Search button works too.



What does being 5-speed have anything to do with this?

The 1st gen automatics came with the 13G with a max of 375CFM flow capability. You'd spend way more money hitting 300hp with this turbo then you would upgrading to a bigger turbo. This is why many people seek the 14B.

13G = 375CFM
14B = 500CFM
16G = 520-550CFM depending on what size you run.
18G = ~640CFM, but there are so many variants out there.
 
The 1st gen automatics came with the 13G with a max of 375CFM flow capability. You'd spend way more money hitting 300hp with this turbo then you would upgrading to a bigger turbo. This is why many people seek the 14B.

13G = 375CFM
14B = 500CFM
16G = 520-550CFM depending on what size you run.
18G = ~640CFM, but there are so many variants out there.

As I stated, manual is not going to affect the HP output neither is automatic. What the other poster was saying, I don't know. You on the otherhand are just stating a turbo in general which is NOT transmission type.

You really won't spend "more" money as the other parts you would buy would be supporting mods. What you mean to say is you would be out of the effiency range of that turbo where as the 14b you would still be in it but nearing the end.
 
Oh well in time ill become more familier with dsms

Sounds like a solid plan to me and is somthing you should be BEFORE you consider touching the car. Just take you time and research all that you can. Learn about the parts you wish to use before you buy. Something may sound like a good deal but will cost you more money overall.


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