Too much tensioner rod ? Tbelt Help

[rocafellafw]

Trying to wrap up a the nightmare of my first timing belt job. Had the car running for 3 days then the belt jumped shutting the car down so it's been down since that happened. It jumped because we had too much slack. Now we have one small problem to get over and I can finally have my car back. The length the tensioner rod should come out should be between 3.8-4.5 mm (.15-.18 in.). As the car sits out front right now the rod it sticking out 10mm. WE have been going over the v-faq, videos, and various guides and cannot figure out how to close that gap. The arm that the rod rests on just moves up and allows the rod to come out. We are kinda doing this without the special rod tool, we have one but for some reason every time we screw the rod in it hits a waterpump bolt ? Any suggestions or tips on how to keep the arm holding the tensioner rod in place ?

I'm wondering if my auto tensioner is bad. How much pressure should it take to push the rod in ? It's brand new and the only way to compress it was a vice and even that was hard. We tried with our hands against something solid and it was impossible. Should the auto tensioner have this much pressure ?

 

[PieEyedPiper]

I don't think the tensioner is bad. You need to recompress your tensioner though, super slowly to prevent damage, in a vice or something similar. Put the pin back in.

Try reinstalling the belt/tensioner and tension the belt more than you would think required, and then check the rod gap. It's a guess and check kind of thing since when you snug down the tensioner pulley you actually loosen the tension on the belt. It's a pain, but you'll get it.

EDIT: my tensioner tool was damn near useless, too. But it worked.

 

[falcon8r]

If you have a pair of snapring pliers of needle nose 90* pliers, you can tension the middle bearing part and have room to put a wrench or socket on it. That way when you tighten the nut, the bearing won't turn. I like the belt to have a little bit of a twang noise if you thump it . Not tight, just barely snug, then pull the pin. If when you start it and it sounds like a gear drive, it was too tight. It greatly helps to have a belt gauge ,but I don't. Tres....

 

[rocafellafw]

Thanks a lot guys your getting me in the right direction. Just need to know a few more things:


1.Why is my brand new rod tool hitting the water pump bolt furthest to the right ?

2.Even if it did go in and the tool compressed the tensioner and everything was torqued down, when the rod is unscrewed out isn't the pivoting arm the tensioner pully is on going to just move and let the rod out to 10mm (which is happening minus the rod)

3. We are basically not understanding the concept of the system and need to find out which holds keep the arm down on the rod to keep it between 3.8-4.5 mm (.15-.18 in).


The car idles fine and the marks are perfect but were scared of what the belt might do under a serious load. We NEED to figure out how to keep the arm in place which holds the tensioner rod position. The arm that connects to the pulley should pivot right ? Then what the hell keeps something that is supposed to move in place to hold the rod between 3.8-4.5 mm ????????????????? Somebody find me the few words that are going to make me and my father go "OHH THAT BOLT" . Thanks a lot again for you guys replying.

 

[LTUSPE]

Thanks a lot guys your getting me in the right direction. Just need to know a few more things:


1.Why is my brand new rod tool hitting the water pump bolt furthest to the right ?

Because you have a 6bolt with a 2g motor mount and 1g tensioner arm. You will not be able to use the tensioner tool.

On the tensioner bearing make sure the two little holes are towards the top of the bearing. Before you put tension on the pulley those two holes will be at like 9 and 7 o'clock. Then as you put tension on the tensioner pulley the holes will rotate clockwise towards the 12 o'clock position.

The hydraulic tensioner rod should move very little when you pull the pin. I aim for the rod to not really move at all. If you can stick the pin back in after rotating the crank 6 times and waiting 15 minutes then you're all set.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Because you have a 6bolt with a 2g motor mount and tensioner arm. You will not be able to use the tensioner tool.

Excellent point. Didn't even notice the 6 bolt. Good catch.

 

[rocafellafw]

Because you have a 6bolt with a 2g motor mount and tensioner arm. You will not be able to use the tensioner tool.

On the tensioner bearing make sure the two little holes are towards the top of the bearing. Before you put tension on the pulley those two holes will be at like 9 and 7 o'clock. Then as you put tension on the tensioner pulley the holes will rotate clockwise towards the 12 o'clock position.

The hydraulic tensioner rod should move very little when you pull the pin. I aim for the rod to not really move at all. If you can stick the pin back in after rotating the crank 6 times and waiting 15 minutes then you're all set.

THANK YOU SOOO MUCH. Ok we are getting there, few more questions and I think this job may be wrapped up tomorrow.
Your saying the rod should not come out that far, the arm should still touch the rod correct ? Now tensioning the pulley will hold the arm down on the rod after I release the pin (my dad is saying the arm will move when we let the pin out because it's designed to pivot) ??

Solved, found this:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...l-installing-timing-timing-belt-6bolt-2g.html

Thanks everyone !!