Dsm link/ oil pan removal

[MMS40]

Alright 1st ? I recently purchases a gst wit a dsm link, im confused on how to get it conected to my lap top is there a usb cord i hace to buy or sumtin?

2nd ? Its got a know in it, and ive been told its the rod bearings, can i drop the oiil pan with out pullin the engine?

 

[river]

Yes, you need a OBD2 to USB cord. They are available at ECMlink's website.... ECMTuning, Inc.

I've not ever pulled the oil pan while in the car, but I'm pretty sure you're gonna need to pull the transfer case and the crossmember and then pull the oilpan. If it's knocking though, you may as well pull the whole engine and be ready for a rebuild or a 6 bolt motor swap.

 

[MMS40]

thanks man !
and shes already got a 6 in her

but wit the supporting mods would i be good to run sum 660 injectors, of course wit the rest of a fuel system upgrade
ENGINE
-Big 16g turbo upgrade
-Front mount intercooler with custom cold side piping
-K&N air intake
-aftermarket stainless hi-flow headers
-full greddy sp2 exhaust
-Greddy type S blow off valve
-AC eliminated
-silent shaft eliminated
-racings polyurethane motor mounts

ENGINE MANAGEMENT
-DSM link
-HKS turbo timer
-Glowshift boost, engine temp, and oil pressure pillar gauges

TRANSMISSION
-ACT stage 3 racing clutch
-ACT lightened flywheel
-B&M short throw shifter

 

[kneipperk]

i've done oil pan while it was on the car. i had to remove the crossmember, pull the exhaust out the way and take the t-case down. not too hard just dont have your face underneath the t-case when it comes down that could be bad

 

[96eclipzGsT]

Rod bearing knock has been covered numerous times on this site. You can pull the oil pan without pulling the motor, but just replacing the rod bearings will not fix the problem. It will start knocking again within 100 miles. If you keep driving it with the knock it could lock up or shoo a rod out the side of the block. You are going to need a rebuild, new crank, rods resized for sure.

 

[MMS40]

Rod bearing knock has been covered numerous times on this site. You can pull the oil pan without pulling the motor, but just replacing the rod bearings will not fix the problem. It will start knocking again within 100 miles. If you keep driving it with the knock it could lock up or shoo a rod out the side of the block. You are going to need a rebuild, new crank, rods resized for sure.

okay, so if i gotta do all that, there is a dsm down the road that is a 91 and runs fine, but its n/t, so could i take that crand out and recondition it, and be good to go? just tryin to find a cheaper route here

 

[1990AWD]

i've done oil pan while it was on the car. i had to remove the crossmember, pull the exhaust out the way and take the t-case down. not too hard just dont have your face underneath the t-case when it comes down that could be bad

he doesn't have a t-case! he's a GST!

Should be just a matter of dropping the center crossmember and exhaust. Make sure your engine is secured because you have to remove and engine mount with that crossmember

 

[My1GLaser]

okay, so if i gotta do all that, there is a dsm down the road that is a 91 and runs fine, but its n/t, so could i take that crand out and recondition it, and be good to go? just tryin to find a cheaper route here

Yes, a 6 bolt crank is a 6 bolt crank. Hopefully it just needs micropolished. Get the whole short block while you're at it if it doesn't cost much more. IIRC, the block is the same except w/o the provision for oil squirters which some people don't even run once they get forged pistons. A spare block is always a good thing to have.

 

[MMS40]

Yes, a 6 bolt crank is a 6 bolt crank. Hopefully it just needs micropolished. Get the whole short block while you're at it if it doesn't cost much more. IIRC, the block is the same except w/o the provision for oil squirters which some people don't even run once they get forged pistons. A spare block is always a good thing to have.

OKAY SO I KNO ITS A 6 BOLT IF. it says 4g63 and its a 91. .
and how much would it run me to recondition my crank you think?

 

[My1GLaser]

About $40-50 to micropolish a good crank. I don't know about cutting a crank, but I would assume probably double that. I personally wouldn't do it when you can get a good virgin one for about $100-150.

 

[MMS40]

About $40-50 to micropolish a good crank. I don't know about cutting a crank, but I would assume probably double that. I personally wouldn't do it when you can get a good virgin one for about $100-150.

by virgin do you mean brand new? bc everyone i have found run from 4 to 700

 

[LandoAWD]

OP: English. Type out whole words. "kno", "wit", "sum"...unacceptable as replacements for real words.

 

[My1GLaser]

by virgin do you mean brand new? bc everyone i have found run from 4 to 700

No. I mean an OEM uncut 6 bolt crank from a used motor that is in good condition and only needs polished.

Our cranks are Nitride coated to harden the journal surfaces and turning a crank takes off some of the coating. Some people say that the Nitriding penetrates to about .050" and you only cut .010" so it shouldn't be a problem. I don't think its worth the risk. They aren't too hard to find but will probably get harder over the years, which is why I have 2 spares at the house.

 

[MMS40]

no. I mean an oem uncut 6 bolt crank from a used motor that is in good condition and only needs polished.

Our cranks are nitride coated to harden the journal surfaces and turning a crank takes off some of the coating. Some people say that the nitriding penetrates to about .050" and you only cut .010" so it shouldn't be a problem. I don't think its worth the risk. They aren't too hard to find but will probably get harder over the years, which is why i have 2 spares at the house. :d

okay man,
so should i most likely replace my rods to,
and the car that i was thinking about buying to get the crank out has 160,000 miles on it. . Is this still lagit? If it runs good

Because he said he put new bearings in it and such under 130 miles ago and it spun so i thought more than likely its a bad crank

and is everything the same with the n/a 6 bolt engine wise?
or are there diff. pistons and rods,
and is 7 bolt pistons worth getting?

 

[My1GLaser]

If the bearings spun then you should get different rods and crank. If not, then you will be in the same position as this guy who went thru all the trouble to replace rod bearings and they spun again in 130 miles.

I would not buy that motor then if it had bearing issues. Just look thru the classifieds here. I have bought 3 short blocks in the past. You can get a decent complete used SB for about $300. You should be able to get just the crank and rods for about $200 if someone is separating them. Going price for a 6 bolt crank is $100-150 and 6bolt rods are normally about $50 and most still have the pistons on them.

The NA block has different pistons, and I don't know about the rods.

Hell, you can probably find someone to sell you just one 6 bolt rod if you only have one that spun.

Honestly, it really all depends on your goals. Are you gonna DD it, what HP level, how much downtime can you handle, how much money do you want to spend, do you have another car to drive in the meantime, etc...

Personally, I would get a used OEM crank, new .020" over NPR pistons & a set of used 6 bolt rods. With machine work you are looking at $600-700 for a 400-500whp capable motor tuning with DSMLink. Granted you will need gaskets as well and they are factored into the price.

 

[MMS40]

yes i do plan on it bein a dailey driver and am only lookin for aobut 300-350