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Newbie Forum Beginner/newbie/general DSM questions. first mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. New Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums.

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Old 10-30-2009, 06:44 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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From: Newark, New Jersey
Registered: Apr 2009
Tech Posts: 4
Reputation: jerzeeog is an unknown
2G-specific No oil Pressure

Guys I need HELP!!! Before we start with the Newbie bashing, I am not a newbie to this site (despite the account create date) nor DSM as I've had 3 eclipses but this is my first turbo (newbie to that). Also I've been searching for 3 days on my issue and have found no relevance on the forums, tech sites, vfaq or anywhere I've looked. Now that all that is out of the way this is the issue, PLEASE HELP....

I just bought my first turbo (96 GS-T, from a guy that had it parked for about 4 months) and I'm having an issue with the oil pressure. When the car turns on it idles REAL BAD and the RPMs wont pick up when gassing it...Looking at the oil pressure gauge in the car I noticed it doesnt even move at all at first....Once the engine is a bit warmer you could accelerate and once over 2k the roughness stop, the engine runs nice and the oil pressure goes up (to about half way and fluctuates as it should when accelerated)...However once the gas is released the oil pressure gauge goes down gradually and after about 10seconds the bad idle starts and the RPMs drop under 1k and the engine stalls.

Everything I have read is for the opposite of this (High idle, High pressure then low, etc...) nothing that touches on my particular issue. I read about proper oil pump priming, there no leaks, and I'm hoping to resolve this without changing the oil pump. I will be dropping the oil pan and checking on the pick up/strainer to look for gunk and clean it. And also installed a new TPS as the old one looked suspect. Any responses or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

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Old 11-02-2009, 09:57 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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From: New Windsor, Illinois
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are the balance shafts eliminated?
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:16 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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From: Miami, Florida
Registered: Nov 2008
Tech Posts: 1,590
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Have you tried messing with your BISS screw ? It's probably too tightened or might be even closed.
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Old 11-04-2009, 12:25 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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From: Newark, New Jersey
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Thank you for responding....Here's an update of what has been done!!

First off the engine is stock and the balance shaft has not been eliminated. A diagnose was done and no errors popped up. The timing is on point the BISS screw was checked. The Spark plugs, PCV, TPS, IAC, were all changed over the last 2 days in effort to fix the issue. After all this now the car holds idle when the engine is warm (although it is still rough). However when cold it doesn't idle at all and the engine keeps stalling.
So basically the issue now seems to be an idle issue as when the engine is cold it doesnt hold idle and when it is warm the idle holds but it's rough. If there are any suggestions please advise.

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Old 11-04-2009, 12:33 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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From: Peoria, Arizona
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Check resistance at the coolant temp. sensor. Or with a scan tool you can visually see what it is telling the computer the coolant temp. is. A lot of times it gets stuck at -40 and the computer compensates for that and the car runs terrible. If the idle is low it will kick on the low oil pressure light. What kind of gauge are you using, stock or aftermarket?


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Old 11-05-2009, 01:07 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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From: Germany, Europe
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Did you do a boost leak test? Adam is right, if the idle is low, the oil light on the dash will flicker. If there is a boost/vacuum leak, the engine will idle crappy and misfire. When I first bought my car it didn't idle well at all but after checking all my vacuum lines, I found that the vacuum line going to the BOV was disconnected because the nipple broke off from it. Try doing the boost leak test first and go from there.

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Old 11-05-2009, 08:11 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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From: Newark, New Jersey
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Reputation: jerzeeog is an unknown
The oil light does not come on at all, neither does the engine light. Also it's the stock POS gauges I'm going by. I changed the coil pack but that wasnt it. However I just noticed the stock MAFT seemed to have been replaced and the wiring redone in a shitty way (I attached a pic). If anyone knows the proper wiring and/or a link to download the eclipse manual please post it....

Thanks for the help guys... This community rocks
I should have registered when I owned my first or second 2g NTs about 6yrs back
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Old 11-05-2009, 08:18 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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From: Peoria, Arizona
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What colors are on each side of the butt connector. What side goes from the harness to the butt connector then the butt connector to the stock MAF connector?


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Old 11-10-2009, 06:15 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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From: Newark, New Jersey
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Update!!
I was able to figure out the Idle problem to be a timing issue. As stated above we checked the timing and the markings on the cams were on point (no timing light), However we were about to give up and change the timing belt when we noticed one of the pieces was installed backwards (not sure how to explain which one but will try to get pics), which made the firing order incorrect. As soon as we fixed that the engine was running flawless.

Now the issue is the clutch pedal looses pressure (and it seems to be leaking into the car). I purchased the Clutch master and slave cylinders to attempt to fix the issue. Any replies in regards to this (New) issue would be appreciated.

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Old 11-10-2009, 07:19 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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From: Peoria, Arizona
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Master cylinders will leak into the car when the seal goes out.


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Old 11-10-2009, 08:50 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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Registered: Sep 2008
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Check under the dash near the clutch pedal for any leaks. Also feel on the slave cylinder boot to see if its leaking. Highly doubtful, but check the clutch line. Its old and sometimes they can go bad.


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