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Shifter linkage adjusters?????

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91gsx20g

15+ Year Contributor
53
0
Jan 16, 2008
danville, Virginia
I have a 1990 Eclipse awd. I went to adjust the linkage to maybe get rid of some grinding in gears. Every picture I saw on VFAQ shows an adjuster for front to back movement and side to side movement. But here is the thing...I only have one adjuster, the ones that changes the side to side movement. The rod for front to back seems to be a solid rod with no adjuster. Whats the DEAL???:cry:
 
they have a sorta slop feeling because they use shift cables. unlike a rear wheel drive where the gear shifter stabs directley into the tranny or a honda that uses solid linkage bars to go from shifter to tranny the dsm uses cables. from your shift tower to the shifter point on the tranny its opperated by cable. best thing you can do to prevent grinding is, 1, make sure clutch pedal is properley functioning. make sure its bled all the way. make sure that the master cylinder rod is correctly adjusted. 2. periodically check that the two cables that attatch the side of your tranny are tight. it takes a 12mm socket and sometimes a 3" extension to tighten these 2 bolts. theyre notorious for coming loose. 3. make sure tranny is propperley filled to correct level with fresh clean 80-90 weight oil. and 4. (this is my opinon of course) do not use a short throw shifter. they all suck and the new leverage point thats sopossed to shorten the length of the throw really just makes added grinding. stock shift tower is plenty good enough. and if you want you can purchase nice bushing kit that goes on the end of your cables where they meet on the tranny itself. theyre sopposed to dramatically improve the shifter feel. never used them myself tho...
 
I pressed skateboard bearings into the end of the shifter cables at the tranny. Much more accurate shifting.

Also, you can get solid shifter base bushings to replace the stock ones.

See how much slop the shifter itself has. I rebuilt mine and shimmed it extra tight with copper washers, and greased it with anti-sieze lubricant. The SOB used to be pretty hard to get into gears above 6,000 rpms, but now I can take it to 7500 and hit the gears.

I got rid of my short shifter POS. I have a stock counterweight shifter knob that is leather-wrapped and is very heavy.
 
Could also be that over time, your cables have stretched and are no longer putting the linkage on the trans in the right spot to hit the gear.

Tons of good info in this thread I must say. Might have to try a few out myself.
 
they have a sorta slop feeling because they use shift cables. unlike a rear wheel drive where the gear shifter stabs directley into the tranny or a honda that uses solid linkage bars to go from shifter to tranny the dsm uses cables. from your shift tower to the shifter point on the tranny its opperated by cable. best thing you can do to prevent grinding is, 1, make sure clutch pedal is properley functioning. make sure its bled all the way. make sure that the master cylinder rod is correctly adjusted. 2. periodically check that the two cables that attatch the side of your tranny are tight. it takes a 12mm socket and sometimes a 3" extension to tighten these 2 bolts. theyre notorious for coming loose. 3. make sure tranny is propperley filled to correct level with fresh clean 80-90 weight oil. and 4. (this is my opinon of course) do not use a short throw shifter. they all suck and the new leverage point thats sopossed to shorten the length of the throw really just makes added grinding. stock shift tower is plenty good enough. and if you want you can purchase nice bushing kit that goes on the end of your cables where they meet on the tranny itself. theyre sopposed to dramatically improve the shifter feel. never used them myself tho...

Skateboard bearings seem to fit perfectly on the tranny side of the cables. My clutch adjusting rod is all the way out. Also, I do have a short throw in it. Oh and I just filled tranny up after clutch install the other day(it did grind before I swapped clutches).

I pressed skateboard bearings into the end of the shifter cables at the tranny. Much more accurate shifting.

Also, you can get solid shifter base bushings to replace the stock ones.

See how much slop the shifter itself has. I rebuilt mine and shimmed it extra tight with copper washers, and greased it with anti-sieze lubricant. The SOB used to be pretty hard to get into gears above 6,000 rpms, but now I can take it to 7500 and hit the gears.

I got rid of my short shifter POS. I have a stock counterweight shifter knob that is leather-wrapped and is very heavy.
I have alot slop in the shifter. I have a short throw in it as well. It is funny you mentioned the skateboard bearings because I did that earlier today. :thumb: I also shimmed the shifter and adjusted the linkage a little. It all seemed to help but it still grinds in a few gears.
 
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