MADE a homemade INTERCOOLER Sprayer, have a question about wipers ??? Thanks...

[andy4g63]

I made a homemade intercooler sprayer and have it connected to the factory windshield washer fluid reservoir.

When I want to spray, I use the lever, that is for the wipers. OK, the problem is, that I want to disable the wipers from going ON, but keep the spraying function. How do I disable the wipers ONLY on spraying ???

If you have the wire colors, even better. It is a 1G.
Thanks in advance, Andy.

WILL post pics soon. Works suprisingly well, for sure cools the FMIC some more, but for real results, I have to log it... Soon, really soon.

 

[oldman420]

I was going to do this but instead of using the front wipers i'm going to run a hose from the rear one, and just put a check valve in the line so it doesn't drain back.

 

[Gabrielsynn]

This is just personal opinion here, but if it were me, I'd just wire in a momentary switch to the pump for the sprayer. Using the factory washer fluid reservoir is a good idea, but I'd keep the wiper switch out of it.

As far as offering a little insight, there are 2 underdash connectors you're working with. Connector A has 20 pins (Pins 1-20), connector B has 8 (Pins 21-28). The washer switch has continuity between pin 7 and pin 28. When your wipers are on low, there is continuity between 23 and 28. On high, it changes to 24 and 28. While your wipers are off or intermittent, there is continuity between pins 23 and 27.

From what I can tell, and this is just a guess, pin 7 is the power output to the sprayer, which would make pin 28 the input. Pin 28 is also the power input to the wipers, 23 and 24 are the outputs to regulate the speed. The only thing I can think of would be to find a way to provide a separate input to the washer switch. Since you have to replace everything as a unit if any of the combination switches fails, I'd say it seems hopeless from here. Keep in mind I'm not exactly experienced with this, but the easiest option would be to just cut the wire at pin 7 and run a new momentary switch to it.

 

[silvreclips]

Easiest thing to do would be power the pump from a different switch. Some wiper motors are controled by a circuit board. Not sure if the 1gs are like this but if so I wouldn't mess with it.

 

[andy4g63]

Im not real good with electronics but couldnt you just hook up a relay to it that stops power to the wipers on spray and and just powers the IC sprayer?

I am trying to keep it simple, using existing wires. Plus I want the wipers to work, if possible on low/high, but being disabled on spray and intermittent, cause obviously, whenwipers are ON steady, there is no need to spray- it is raining...

I've gotta say, that is a pretty sweet idea.

Thanks,man.

I was going to do this but instead of using the front wipers i'm going to run a hose from the rear one, and just put a check valve in the line so it doesn't drain back.

It is good idea, I just thought the shorter, the better.

This is just personal opinion here, but if it were me, I'd just wire in a momentary switch to the pump for the sprayer. Using the factory washer fluid reservoir is a good idea, but I'd keep the wiper switch out of it.

As far as offering a little insight, there are 2 underdash connectors you're working with. Connector A has 20 pins (Pins 1-20), connector B has 8 (Pins 21-28). The washer switch has continuity between pin 7 and pin 28. When your wipers are on low, there is continuity between 23 and 28. On high, it changes to 24 and 28. While your wipers are off or intermittent, there is continuity between pins 23 and 27.

From what I can tell, and this is just a guess, pin 7 is the power output to the sprayer, which would make pin 28 the input. Pin 28 is also the power input to the wipers, 23 and 24 are the outputs to regulate the speed. The only thing I can think of would be to find a way to provide a separate input to the washer switch. Since you have to replace everything as a unit if any of the combination switches fails, I'd say it seems hopeless from here. Keep in mind I'm not exactly experienced with this, but the easiest option would be to just cut the wire at pin 7 and run a new momentary switch to it.

Basically you are saying just get power from pin 7 and run to whenever I want and install momentary switch. To be honest I want to get one of these small ON/OFF buttons/don't know what they are called/ and install it into the shift knob.

If i get power from pin7, do I need ground, or just ON/OFF switch connected to this particular #7 pin.

Thanks,Andy.

 

[cbrfrenzie]

Will the pump still run if you simply un-plugged the wiper motor? And if not, could you bypass the wiper motor so the pump still gets power? Also are you trying to retain the wiper functionality, or disable it completely?

Looking at my 1990 factory electrical manual, there is a "Washer Switch" that is triggered from the "Intermittent Wiper Relay". As long as your wipers are in the "ON" position the washer switch should be active for when you manually push the tab on the lever.

You could also use a relay triggered from the "Intermittent Wiper Relay" to active the washer motor, that way you would spray ANYTIME your wipers were in the "ON" position, instead of having to push the momentary tab on the control.

 

[andy4g63]

Will the pump still run if you simply un-plugged the wiper motor? And if not, could you bypass the wiper motor so the pump still gets power? Also are you trying to retain the wiper functionality, or disable it completely?

I am trying to retain the wipers, at leaast on low/high and if possible on intermittent, otherwise, i will disable the wiper motor.

 

[cbrfrenzie]

Got it, I'll post the schematic for you after lunch

 

[JusMX141]

This is embarrassing, but we rigged up a similar setup using an accessory water tank, windshield washer pump, and sprayers to spray the tires on my buddy's old Ford Aspire one time. We were young, stupid, had lots of time on our hands, and loved doing smoky burnouts.

I believe we had his set up on a toggle, but I always felt the best idea would be to have a button on the floor under the accelerator pedal so when the throttle was at 100% the pump would be activated. Of course you'd need also need a toggle to turn off the power to the switch so the sprayers wouldn't activate while driving.

 

[EclipticalGS]

there was a wire cut on my friends 1g that hindered him from the wipers engaging when the spray lever was pulled and the wipers would only work when lever switch was rotated. I cant remember what color it was...jeez.

 

[cbrfrenzie]

Front and Rear Wiper motor and pump circuits from a 1992 TSI. Thank you Alldata!!
Sorry if the pics are too large, I wanted to make them readable. If they get pulled, PM me your email and I'll send them that way.

 

[andy4g63]

Thanks, man. I got that, but not so good with wires. I also have the factory manual and it says there:
Washer switch is directly related to terminals #7 and #28. With the switch ON, there should be continuity between these two terminals. Does that means, that for me to turn the Washer sprayer manually, I have to run couple of wires OFF these terminals, #7 and #28 and install some kind of switch, which would give continuity/connection between them???
If so, does it matter from where/before the plugs-coming from main harness,
OR after the plugs-toward the combination switch on the steering wheel, I should splice the wires ???

If not, explain, if you could please. If you have the manual in front of you, just look for COMBINATION switch-CHECK and REPLASEMENT, there are tables that explain which wires go together.

Sorry for the dumb questions.. Don't like wires and don't understand ...

 

[cbrfrenzie]

Thanks, man. I got that, but not so good with wires. I also have the factory manual and it says there:
Washer switch is directly related to terminals #7 and #28. With the switch ON, there should be continuity between these two terminals. Does that means, that for me to turn the Washer sprayer manually, I have to run couple of wires OFF these terminals, #7 and #28 and install some kind of switch, which would give continuity/connection between them??? If so, does it matter from where/before the plugs-coming from main harness,
OR after the plugs-toward the combination switch on the steering wheel, I should splice the wires ???

Yes that would work, as long as you spliced into both wires and did not cut them. Pin 28 is the power side, pin 7 is the motor side. You would then install your own switch between these two spliced wires on the wiper motor side of the harness. The windshield wipers and washer motor should continue to work in their normal way. Let me know how it works out.

If you deleted your AC you could wire it into that switch and make it stealthy

 

[andy4g63]

Thanks a lot, cbrfrenzie !!!

Yes, I did deletemy AC, but I am using the AC switch, to manually turn ON the second cooling fan. I am going to buy tomorrow, a very small button, so I can put it on my shift knob and spray whenever I want.

Got the pics, but will post them tomorrow, sorry.

 

[andy4g63]

I would really like to see some logs. I've done it during the summer but wasn't sure how affective it was.

Will do, but need at least a little warmer weather-like 65-70*F. If I get at least 10-12*F, will be very happy. Just a few weeks. Will post results.

 

[andy4g63]

Here are some pictures, of how it looks/stays on the car.

And two of them are IN the car with the button installed.

 

[ApexVIII]

my 03 evo came stock with some intercooler sprayers

they are junk they really dont do any thing


but for your wiring question

you could just run a new switch and wires to the pump and just use that.

but for real, just take them off

 

[andy4g63]

Made the wires work already. That small tiny button, next to e-brake is for the spray. After I buy another shift knob/a little bigger/, I will incorporate the button into the shift knob.


I can't tell if sprayer is working effectively or not. On touch, while car idling outside, the end tank was a little warm, but the front surface of FMIC was way colder, but this is just on touch. I will have some logs within a few weeks- need to get a little warmer out.. The problem is my DP has developed a crack and it blows from there around/on block and alternetor/ and messes up a little with WB O2 readings. I have an alt. reloc. kit, will fix everything next week, may be. My alternator and battery are brand new and I don't want driving around, blowing hot air on a brand new alt. After I fix these issues will have logs.

 

[slvrDsm]

What i did was took the Tank and pump from my corolla and mounted it on the inside of my bumper.. On the passenger side. Ran a line to the top of my bumper connected to about 7 inches of steel gas line that you would see on a gas burner.. Then i ran power to a push button switch right in front of my shift knob on the center console.. And there is my intercooler sprayer.. If you want i could take pictures.. Thats up to you.. it took me about 30 min.. And cost me well over 0 dollors

 

[andy4g63]

Thanks, works fine for now. I could've put more NO2 jets, but I wanted to see, how effective is, after I log it. Second if it is on top, while moving at highway speeds, most of the water will go around top runners of FMIC, but not bottom, because of the speed and the way I put it, I am spraying on the HOTTER PART of FMIC.

 

[trevnasty]

Thanks, works fine for now. I could've put more NO2 jets, but I wanted to see, how effective is, after I log it. Second if it is on top, while moving at highway speeds, most of the water will go around top runners of FMIC, but not bottom, because of the speed and the way I put it, I am spraying on the HOTTER PART of FMIC.

hay andy4g63 can you pm me the parts list to make the ic sprayer it would be much appricated thanks Trever

 

[andy4g63]

No problem, Trever. Actually, I wanted to post it here in case someone needs to build it...

-U profile-aluminum,or stainless.//You need two of these, to close it and make it look like sealed box, after you are done. Lenght may vary, depends on your front bumper.
-Barb fittings. I used straight 1 with 3 and 1 with 2 extensions, so I had total of 5 spraying points. You could use both of them with 3, so you have total of 6.
-Nitrous jets, variable size, I would say lower 20's size, but that is up to you.
-vacuum hose-t the right size/ that will go tight over barb fittings and NO2 jets/.
-zip ties


The most important part of everything, is when you install the NO2 jets. The holes, that you drill on the U-profile piece, have to be very tight. Their size should be determined, from how thick the NO2 jet is with the vacuum hose around.

You have to put the hose on barb fittings, tighten it up with small zip ties, then insert it thru the holes, install the NO2 jets/ you could put a little silicone if you like/. Push it backwards, the size of the hole is playing double role:
-holds NO2 jets in place
-it is tight around the hose, so it won't leak

After that, plug the bottom barb fitting with some cap, connect the hose to the factory barb and to the inlet os the sprayer/leave a little extra hose/ and use the second half to close the rear.

Made some brackets and attach.

 

[kiddd]

Wow, that is a sick job. how did you come up with that?

 

[andy4g63]

It is easy, just a little creativity and some time. I already installed CAI some time ago. Looking to get another 10* F down in AIT. Combined, the CAI and FMIC sprayer should really well, considering size of my intercooler and the amount of boost, I am/will be running on pump gas. This is my mission:

Lower the AIT's, as much as I could without too much money and keep it simple and reliable.

Here is a link of the CAI install/results thread:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bol...-info-inside-cai-installed.html#post151642184

 

[habitatguy187]

Any updates?