SeaveeDSM
Supporting VIP
- 238
- 37
- Dec 22, 2008
-
Miami,
Florida
I'm still new to these boards and can not yet post in the parts review forums so I'll post this here. If the mods want to move it thats fine by me.
With my extra cooling fans, Walbro255 direct wired, Pioneer head unit stereo, Pioneer amp, A/C, headlights, foglights, etc. my voltage was always kind of weak - especially at idle. I'd put on the turn signals or press on the brakes and the instrument panel lights would dim slightly, etc. Very annoying.
Well, the lousy low output stock alternator (just 75 amps in the 2G turbo DSMs) died recently. I had already recently replaced my main battery cables (both positive and negative) with a new OEM set, and replaced the traditional style battery with an Optima Red Top. These helped alot but the root issue was still the relatively weak OEM alternator.
Rather than replace it with an OEM spec alternator I wanted to add a higher output one and wanted a direct fit replacement with no modifications of the brackets, or plug etc. So based on recommendations here and other DSM boards I got a 150 AMP high output "Load Boss" Alterstart alternator. ALTERSTART Home Page
Oh, the 150amp alternator I wanted was not specifically listed on the Alterstart website. What was there for Mitsu Eclipse 2G turbo was a 165 amp high output model. I called and the salesman said they also have a 150 amp version not shown. It was about $280 + shipping, no core return requirement and it arrived in less than a week. The alternator has a 2 year warranty and included in the box was a test printout on my specific unit showing output across a number of RPM ranges.
INSTALLATION
Installation was simple and the new alternator bolted right in place of the old one and the connector plug fitting was identical.
IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT THE CHARGING CABLE: Although the alternator bolts directly in just like the stock one, because its output amps are so much higher than original you MUST add a new independent + charging cable from the alternator to the battery. If you don't you will likely blow the fusible link or maybe have a fire because the stock charge wire is pathetically thin and can not handle the load. The Alterstart paperwork recommended bypassing the stock cable entirely but you can just use it ALONG with a new 4 gauge cable.
I actually used 6 gauge AWG marine cable rather than 4 gauge SAE. AWG marine gauges are about 15% larger than the equivalent SAE gauge and its not due to the jacketing but rather the much greater number of tinned copper strands inside the cable. I am a boater and while many things listed as "marine grade" are just a load of marketing BS, true marine grade cable is not one of them. It is far superior to SAE wire, especially in the low gauges. I got 10 feet of 6 ga. AWG, and 4 matching marine terminal ends and heat shrink for them.
I routed and zip tied the new cable along the same path as the OEM harness - from the alternator down and between the bottom of the radiator and A/C condenser then back up the passenger side over by the engine bay fuse box. I then got a Scosche EFX E2 ANL in-line fuse holder from a local stereo shop and installed it just behind the stock fuse panel as shown below. I am using Scosche's 150 amp fuse but may drop it down to a 100 amp fuse for safety unless the system blows it.
You can see the approx 18" length of red cable routing from the + terminal, under the strut tower bar (just aft of the BOV) and then just aft of the stock fuse box to the E2 fuse holder. The rest of the cable runs from the other side of the fuse holder back behind and under the factory fuse box to the battery. I originally bought 10 feet of cable and after routing and making the final cuts to the lengths I needed had about a foot left over - with a little slack for future changes if needed. The wiring was: + terminal of battery----->fuse------>alternator
After finishing up I cranked up the car - WOW what a difference in voltage
I am ranging from mid-high 12 volts with literally EVERYTHING turned on at idle, to as much as 13.50 to 13.75 at basically anything above 2,000 rpm.
Headlights are noticeably brighter and even my walbro 255's "whine" is quieter and does not noticeably change pitch when I press the brakes, or turn on headlights.
Its only been in for a week so I can't vouch for the longevity but from a power output standpoint this thing beats the $hit out of the stock altenator.
With my extra cooling fans, Walbro255 direct wired, Pioneer head unit stereo, Pioneer amp, A/C, headlights, foglights, etc. my voltage was always kind of weak - especially at idle. I'd put on the turn signals or press on the brakes and the instrument panel lights would dim slightly, etc. Very annoying.
Well, the lousy low output stock alternator (just 75 amps in the 2G turbo DSMs) died recently. I had already recently replaced my main battery cables (both positive and negative) with a new OEM set, and replaced the traditional style battery with an Optima Red Top. These helped alot but the root issue was still the relatively weak OEM alternator.
Rather than replace it with an OEM spec alternator I wanted to add a higher output one and wanted a direct fit replacement with no modifications of the brackets, or plug etc. So based on recommendations here and other DSM boards I got a 150 AMP high output "Load Boss" Alterstart alternator. ALTERSTART Home Page
Oh, the 150amp alternator I wanted was not specifically listed on the Alterstart website. What was there for Mitsu Eclipse 2G turbo was a 165 amp high output model. I called and the salesman said they also have a 150 amp version not shown. It was about $280 + shipping, no core return requirement and it arrived in less than a week. The alternator has a 2 year warranty and included in the box was a test printout on my specific unit showing output across a number of RPM ranges.
INSTALLATION
Installation was simple and the new alternator bolted right in place of the old one and the connector plug fitting was identical.
IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT THE CHARGING CABLE: Although the alternator bolts directly in just like the stock one, because its output amps are so much higher than original you MUST add a new independent + charging cable from the alternator to the battery. If you don't you will likely blow the fusible link or maybe have a fire because the stock charge wire is pathetically thin and can not handle the load. The Alterstart paperwork recommended bypassing the stock cable entirely but you can just use it ALONG with a new 4 gauge cable.
I actually used 6 gauge AWG marine cable rather than 4 gauge SAE. AWG marine gauges are about 15% larger than the equivalent SAE gauge and its not due to the jacketing but rather the much greater number of tinned copper strands inside the cable. I am a boater and while many things listed as "marine grade" are just a load of marketing BS, true marine grade cable is not one of them. It is far superior to SAE wire, especially in the low gauges. I got 10 feet of 6 ga. AWG, and 4 matching marine terminal ends and heat shrink for them.
I routed and zip tied the new cable along the same path as the OEM harness - from the alternator down and between the bottom of the radiator and A/C condenser then back up the passenger side over by the engine bay fuse box. I then got a Scosche EFX E2 ANL in-line fuse holder from a local stereo shop and installed it just behind the stock fuse panel as shown below. I am using Scosche's 150 amp fuse but may drop it down to a 100 amp fuse for safety unless the system blows it.
You can see the approx 18" length of red cable routing from the + terminal, under the strut tower bar (just aft of the BOV) and then just aft of the stock fuse box to the E2 fuse holder. The rest of the cable runs from the other side of the fuse holder back behind and under the factory fuse box to the battery. I originally bought 10 feet of cable and after routing and making the final cuts to the lengths I needed had about a foot left over - with a little slack for future changes if needed. The wiring was: + terminal of battery----->fuse------>alternator
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After finishing up I cranked up the car - WOW what a difference in voltage
I am ranging from mid-high 12 volts with literally EVERYTHING turned on at idle, to as much as 13.50 to 13.75 at basically anything above 2,000 rpm. Headlights are noticeably brighter and even my walbro 255's "whine" is quieter and does not noticeably change pitch when I press the brakes, or turn on headlights.
Its only been in for a week so I can't vouch for the longevity but from a power output standpoint this thing beats the $hit out of the stock altenator.
