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Done Some Reading...Please Tell Me if I understand DSM Correctly

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DanaT

10+ Year Contributor
65
0
Nov 23, 2008
Europe & Colorado, Europe
I am doing the crash course on DSM because I may buy a nice, stokc 97 GSX on Wednesday or Friday. This is an unexpected purchase.

So some background. I am not new to tuning and also not new to turbo tuning. I have no illusions of what I want from the car.

The reasons for the GSX:
1) It is a nice looking car and is not dated even for being 10 years old.
2) AWD
3) Turbo
4) Around 30mpg
5) Approved by the wife

I took a job part time in Europe. I am in Europe 60% of the time and am using rental cars (abut $1200 a month for a crappy car). Being an ex-pat I am allowed to bring a car into Europe tax free and run on American plates (I have been driving my buddies Cayenne on US plates so I know this works). However, there is one catch, to export a car from the US, it must have a clear title (i.e. no loan) so I must pay cash.

Cars in the US cost half as much.

The leading car that I was looking to ship there was a Boxster S. What caused the problem with that was the wife got upset and thought that having me for weeks at a time with a Boxster would not be a good idea.

And then there is winter and snow in the mountains. The AWD seemed nice. So by strange luck I saw an Eclipse and tol dmy wife that that car would be good if I could ever find a nice one. The next day I saw one (unmodified, almost new condition..one small door ding is all). So I think I may buy the car.

So I will be driving the car where I can go fast (i.e. no speed limits) so I want a little more power. I went through everything I can find.

It seems that a 2G has stock boost of 10-15psi. Why is there so much difference?

Coming from turbo tuning on other cars I am seeing some differences.

It seems that I can just get a nice boost controller and run boost to about 15-16 psi. It seems that I don't need chips or ECU reprogramming to do this from what I can tell. Is this correct? Previous tuning I have done is that custom software to match boost/turbo but also the EMS controlled boost. Does the DSM EMS control boost (it seems to since it has a selenoid that the restrictor is removed)? By just putting on a boost controller, does the stock EMS adjust fuel based upon sensed boost or is richening the system done by simply rising fuel pressure?

If I buy the car, I will need some stiffer springs for high speed. H&R spring are the only TUV approved springs. Are the H&R sport springs good or should I go with race springs?

Are KYB shocks good? I typically run Koni or Bilstein but would be willing to think of the KYB due to price. I would also have to put on new brakes just to be safe.

I also need a 1G blowoff valve correct? I have used Forge valves in the past, but they wont pass for stock. A 1G may pass for stock to Euro inspectors that don't have turbo eclipses.

Is my thinking of how the Engine MAnagement System works correct? Simply slap on a boost controller and boost gauge (to set the boost) and I am good to go the EMS will richen things up. Just don't go to the fuel cutoff limit.

Finally, anyone know if speedos in kmh are available?

-Dana
 
Canadian cars have kmh speedos, but the US ones also have kmh, just smaller and in red under the mph. The ECM in DSM don't control the amount of boost. You'll want to look at a Manual Boost Controler. You can run 15-16 psi stock, but it is suggested that your rewire the fuel pump for more consistent power to it and better fuel flow. AWD is very nice in the snow. You might get 30mpg, but don't count on it. The stock ECM can control the fuel just fine up to 15psi.
 
The stock turbo wont do much past 15psi on a 2g anyways. But yea thats about it and I would still get a logger to make sure you have a good timing curve. To get some real good power a tuning device will be needed.
 
I was getting 32MPG consistently in my GS-T. That's only FWD though, being AWD you may use more fuel but it shouldn't be that much different. You don't NEED a 1g Bov. The car you're looking at may be fine. Most people get 1g Bovs because they are all metal and 2g's have some plastic on it and tend to leak creating a boost leak and a major loss of power. It's not a bad idea to get a 1g bov but it isn't absolutely a must.

You won't be disappointed with a DSM. There is a lot of information here, you will learn anything you want to know about these cars.
 
I agree. A plastic BOV is crap. What is bad is that it doesn't matter the price of the car, some still seem to think plastic BOVs are good. My current car (toy) had a plastic Bosch BOV and it was replaced with a Forge BOV. Plastic BOV don't last and they leak.

-Dana
 
If you are going to replace the BOV, make sure you keep it recirculating, or your going to have really poor performance, as the recirculating line comes in after the MAS, so the ecu has already adjusted for the extra airflow. My parents had '95 AWD, got about 26mpg highway and 23 or so city, but that was entirely stock.
 
It seems to me like you know what you are doing with this car.

Like you I have had European cars all my life, but after getting raped by a GST in my Porsche 968 I decided to take a look at them in further detail... I saw that for the most part they were inexpensive and highly underated. So I picked one up in Orange County California, and drove it back to Texas (nice drive)... I quickly realized a 4g63 Eclipse has everything that makes a good car great; an suurprisingly large potential to go as fast as you want, reliability, great gas mileage (for the most part), and amazing looks.


Good luck! :thumb:


:dsm:
 
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