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did i just kill my clutch???

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96greengst

10+ Year Contributor
33
0
Nov 1, 2008
psl, Florida
so i got a 96 gst with 14b turbo with some mods running 16 psi,the car had bad motor mounts when i bought it,so i put new front and rear mounts and prothane inserts on all 4 mounts,took a while since we didnt have a press to get the steel ring out,LOL and had to use a chisel and hammer method to get them out.
so since i bought the car like this i havent been able to hit it hard through all the gears,
so i was ready,nailed it was breaking em loose in the top of 2nd:D but after this run to 4th gear..my pedal felt "soft"..and in 1st or reverse when i try to ease the clutch out it like im just dumping whats left of it? no travel? also the pedal stays on the floor and i have to pull it back up with my toes,wtf? it doesnt do it when the car is off? and it doesnt slip or grind any gear?
hydrualics seem fine?
just like i fugged sometthing on the pressure plate up?
any ideas?
and if the clutch is gone,is their a GOOD write up on a clutch job here somewhere with pics,LOL or what should i expect to pay for a shop to do it,if i choose to?
ive done fwd clutch's before,not on a dsm though.
and what clutch should i run? always had goodluck with act.
is a lightwheel flywheel a good idea on these motors or no?
 
so you think its the clutch?
im leaning towards the act "extreme street" set up i think thats 2600 if im not mistaken?
id rather be too much then not enough,i got plans for this car. oh yeah trans was replaced 9k ago as with stock clutch and its already toast,LOL
the weird thing is when i it started doing this i let off the clutch in 1st gear and went into neutrel and watched my clutch pedal litterally sink back to the floorboard?
is the clutch the culpret???,still drivable,just kind of hairy in reverse and 1st gear taking off,LOL
 
I wanna say its your clutch, but im not completely sure. it sounds like it could be.
 
did you by all check your fluid. if your were leaking fluid it will do that. i know most dsms liek to leak fluid on the back of the clutch master cylinder. i just replaced mine when i put in the act 2100 clutch and i think i need a new slave cylinder now. but check your fluid and get back to us please i dont want to see a guy spend alot of money on a new clutch ya know when its just some fluid LOL.
 
fluid is fine,that was my first thought,too much if anything,LOL and actually the master looks like it was replaced when the trans/clutch was replaced less then 9k ago
 
check for leaks, check your cylinder and then if all looks good pull the tranny check your clutch, sounds like a clutch issue. until u need a 2600 clutch i wouldnt reccomend one on a daily driver.
 
yes well thats very interesting. i would think unless your pressure plate is gone that your have a leak of some sort thats not building up pressure in the line. but it could be clutch. i got the act 2100 and i have alot of work done to my car and its holding up great. im more afraid im gonna snap halfshafts now that my clutch start clipping. but i kept a stock flywheel. i dont like hoe fast revs drop and i have a 1000 watt rms system with no capasitor and alot of electronics so i dont want my car to die on me LOL. let us know.
 
their are no leaks..i checked that. with a new dealership transmission installed id prefer the 2600.its still street driven but not my only DD,,im getting something else to keep as a a non modded car/truck to get me to and from to work,this will be the weekend fun/track car and i plan on more mods so id rather go with the 2600/fidenza flywheel now and not have to worry later.
i used to drive a saturn with 150 shot with a act six puck and that was rough,a street disk i could handle,LOL
 
well im a newbie here so let me be honest,LOL the master for the clutch hydraulics is the one all way to the drivers side on the car, i just checked it and its to the max.line?
i thought from looking at earlier it was overfilled,not sure if it was a illusion or what with the cap on,LOL? i dont see any leaks? and its at the MAX line now?
so the resivoer is actually seperate from the pedal/rod assy?:dsm:
 
it also seems weird that up untill now the clutch was fine? id beat on it,but only in the gear i was boosting in,LOL afraid of the motor ending up in my lap the mounts were so bad,LOL
so thats why im leaning towards pressure plate.the car has the supporting mods to be at 300 hp...i think i broke a spring or torcehd the fingers on the PP,sometime it seems ok then next im pulilng the pedal back up
THOUGHTS?
again no grinds or slipping in any gears,just when im taking off or downshifting to 2nd to make a turn do i experince this pedal "lost" feeling,although the pedal doesnt feel nearly as stiff as it did,i can still shift all other gears fine?
 
the car had 170 to 180 psi across the board 2 weeks ago,i doubt that crankwalk has anything to do with this?
 
so i got a 96 gst with 14b turbo with some mods running 16 psi,the car had bad motor mounts when i bought it,so i put new front and rear mounts and prothane inserts on all 4 mounts,took a while since we didnt have a press to get the steel ring out,LOL and had to use a chisel and hammer method to get them out.
so since i bought the car like this i havent been able to hit it hard through all the gears,
so i was ready,nailed it was breaking em loose in the top of 2nd:D but after this run to 4th gear..my pedal felt "soft"..and in 1st or reverse when i try to ease the clutch out it like im just dumping whats left of it? no travel? also the pedal stays on the floor and i have to pull it back up with my toes,wtf? it doesnt do it when the car is off? and it doesnt slip or grind any gear?
hydrualics seem fine?
just like i fugged sometthing on the pressure plate up?
any ideas?
and if the clutch is gone,is their a GOOD write up on a clutch job here somewhere with pics,LOL or what should i expect to pay for a shop to do it,if i choose to?
ive done fwd clutch's before,not on a dsm though.
and what clutch should i run? always had goodluck with act.
is a lightwheel flywheel a good idea on these motors or no?

Shop will charge roughly around $400-$500 roughly to replace the clutch for you.
Most common clutches i know dsmer's use are the ACT 2100-2600 ( based on your future plans)
As far as crankwalk.. its alot less common then people think. I'm adding this link to this thread because you said your pedal is slow on coming back up. Read through this.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/240082-scared-simptoms-crankwalk.html
 
as i mentioned before check you crank if its walking :)

trust me you better check the crank and being at 18 psi is irrelevant


good luck

I would recommend listoning to this guy. That was my thought at first too. and was going to post the crankwalk thought. but he beat me to it. grab ahold of your crank pully and see if there is any movement at all. you can search the crankwalk also and it will tell you more tale tell signs of crankwalk. but it sounds like thats whats going on. good luck buddy.(expecialy if its the walk):dsm:
 
checked for crankwalk,all good!
ended up being the clutch mastercylinder afterall,car is back to normal for now,LOL
 
checked for crankwalk,all good!
ended up being the clutch mastercylinder afterall,car is back to normal for now,LOL

I have the same problem, does ftw, I just got paid and time to replace tranny and clutch. BTW what kind of clutch are you using?
 
My car is moderately modded and I just bought the Fidanza 4.3 Ceramic clutch kit. ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT!Have some buddies with some Evo's that are running this clutch as well, some making more power then I am. A little chatter till it's broken in, and then it's fine. Do a lot of research on a clutch you like instead of just jumping on the ACT bandwagon. Not saying ACT doesn't make good products, but do some research for yourself. How much power are you planning on making in the long run? Also, +1 on the Fidanza flywheel. If you do go with the ACT 2600 though, be sure to replace the clutch fork, as I hear many people who use this clutch find themselves undoing their work because there clutch fork was bent/broken by that clutch.
 
I'm new to the DSM but I had the same problem and also replaced my clutch master cylinder and all was well for for a couple months and then it started all over again. The dreaded crankwalk attacked, ruined my crank, ate my thrust bearing and chewed on my block. Make sure you keep checking it and I would advise removing your clutch safety switch and start the car in neutral so you get some oil pressure going to your thrust bearing before applying your clutch. If you get any indication of crankwalk stop driving or you will be looking at total bottom end rebuild. I now have a 6-bolt block and crank in my garage to rebuild.
 
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