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Downpipe won't clear transfercase... awd 2g w/ evoIII O2 housing

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Turbo-addicted

15+ Year Contributor
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Apr 8, 2008
Campinas, South America
Ok so I got this pipe from hanhracecraft and it won't clear the transfercase... it's 1 inch off to passenger side. Is that because I have the evoIII O2 housing? it's a 2G car AWD, :talon: What should I do? The turbo is a e316g stock location.... Thanks!
 
The Evo3 O2 Housing puts the collector flange at a slightly different angle vs a 1g or 2g O2 Housing... This will have an effect on the downpipe's position.

You have a few choices:

1) cut off & reweld the existing DP

2) get a different O2 housing

3) get a different DP (I went with this solution, from De Jon Tool... They make an Evo3 O2 housing-specific DP)

Good Luck
 
Port your old 2g o2 housing and slap it back in. Should flow just as much as an evo3 housing anyways and therefore taking care of the problem of the different angle.
 
I think I'm just gonna cut it and weld at a exhaust shop, seems like the most not cheap but effective way w/o kinking the pipe and saving over $170 over buying another DP.... I'm keeping this EVO3 O2 housing... I need the extra flow.
 

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Yea my brother just got a megan dp, and dejon tool cat back with the evo 02. We had a shop weld it up and they charged him like $300 for labor. We where pissed because they said it took so long do to the evo o2 housing. That is crap.
 
Early Megan downpipes had the flex section right where the bulge in the transfer case is. On my buddy's 2G AWD, we had to smash the flex section flat on one side to clear his transfer case. It wasn't a big deal or a ton of work....just an annoyance.

They've since moved the flex section to a more desireable location.
 
Probably should have done abit of research before buying that downpipe & evoIII O2 housing combo. Sounds like Dejon offers a DP for the evoIII housing & I believe RRE is another one that offers one. If you don't want to buy a new one, like has been said have an exhaust shop modify your current one (though they may charge you almost the same as buying a new one plus you could make some money selling the old one....)
 
Another option would be just run it. We had the same issue with our VRS 2.5inch DP a little while ago and were able to just muscle the flex section so it worked. It did tear up the flex section a bit, but not too bad. One thing to keep in mind, this car was not daily driven, so it's very possible if you drive your car daily that the constant vibration would cause the t-case to work its way through the flex section, YMMV.
 
Another option would be just run it. We had the same issue with our VRS 2.5inch DP a little while ago and were able to just muscle the flex section so it worked. It did tear up the flex section a bit, but not too bad. One thing to keep in mind, this car was not daily driven, so it's very possible if you drive your car daily that the constant vibration would cause the t-case to work its way through the flex section, YMMV.

Yes it seems like that's the way to go. Thank you!:rocks:
 
That sounds like a good way to wreck a flex section, especially if you have stock or worn motor mounts. But if you don't care, that would be the easiest.

Yes I agree, that's probably what's gonna happen although I do have a new prothane motor mounts... The thing is I have this dp already there, I'm out of cash, and unemployed... So I don't have much of a choice right now, but run it , then later when it ruins the flex pipe and it's leaking I replace the hole thing w/ a Dejon E3O2 DP, which should be the pipe I should've gotten in first place If I knew I was gonna get a E3O2 housing... My only concern now is the T-case run hotter w/ the flex pipe so close against it ?
 
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