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Coolant in cylinders after new head

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Boostdclips99

20+ Year Contributor
306
0
Mar 19, 2006
Roanoke, Virginia
The story begins when I bought my 99 GSX and began to swap over my mods from my GST . I went to install the cams and found a gouged journal. So I purchase a re-manufactured from a company out of WV. After some time I finally get the new head installed with ARP studs and a composite gasket. All the torque sequences were proper followed with ARP moly lube and proper tension. I start the car while still on the jack stands and let it to run to properly heated up. I re-torque the studs and let it run again. All of a sudden white smoke pours out of the exhaust. I check the plugs and they are soaking wet. Check oil and sure enough it has coolant in it. I pull the head think I must have screwed something up with the studs the first time.

I get a new head gasket and start the process over. After getting it put back together I decide to torque the studs down a little harder and pray. Run through the first heat cycle and re-torque. Start it back up and i'll be d@mn if it doesn't push coolants into the cylinders again. The car never saw the road or was under boost.

Now the company said the head was decked and pressure tested but I'm starting to wonder if someone was sleeping on the job that day. I have a 1 year warranty on the head so I'm thinking I should send it back. I know it cannot be the block because it was running fine before. Should I take it to a machine shop just to double check that its not me and it is in fact the head? Or could there be another culprit?
 
Look for a crack in the head. The heads they have were probably bought cheap, maybe from junkyards. probably got really hot before. What did you torque the head down to the first time? What kind of HG are you using?

I looked at the head pretty closely and didn't see a crack. Also there is coolant in all of the cylinders. The head was torqued to 85ft lbs the first time and 90ft lbs the second. I put Mitsubishi composite gaskets both times.
 
I think you need to get your head examined LOL !! Really, get the head magnafluxed - & be sure . . . if not you may have a gasket issue :talon:
Im sure thats not the last time i'll hear that.

did you do the 3 step torquing sequence? I really would guess that you put the HG on wrong or its cracked. I have a friend that has a machine that can scan for cracks. See if you can take it to a machine shop to scan for cracks.

I did them in sequences of 30ft lbs. Thats what I thought at first but how would that have happened twice in a row. I even had a guy over that has done a headgasket change on DSMs and he said it has to be the head.
 
This is kinda what im going through right now.at first i thought it was the head gasket so i replaced it with a metal one and threw some arp's in there but it was still happening. so the only conclusion i can come up with is the head is cracked. Good luck
 
I think you need to get your head examined LOL !! Really, get the head magnafluxed - & be sure . . . if not you may have a gasket issue :talon:

You magnaflux steel, you dye check aluminum. What do the valve guides look like? also how clean is the mating surface of the block?
 
check the warpage on the block and head with a straight edge.

Everything looks good with the straight edge.

You magnaflux steel, you dye check aluminum. What do the valve guides look like? also how clean is the mating surface of the block?

Valve guides are new, i scraped EVERYTHING off of the surfaces and used 400 grit sandpaper.
 
the block and head need to be cleaned with asatone or paint thiner before you put the head on.

what about brake parts cleaner? It wasn't sprayed on due to valve guides but i wiped both down. I talked to the company and they said it sounds warped but they but a heat tab on the side for checking. But the tab looks fine. They will be getting a call tomorrow...
 
after awhile I got the head looked at. They checked for warpage and cracks and said the head looks fine. I don't believe it can be block because coolant is in all of the cylinders when it is warmed up. I'm getting aggrevated, what could it be?!?!
 
been thinking about this more (basically all I can do right now) but is it possible that the head could be milled down too much? Causing the dowel pins to keep it up higher and not seal?
 
been thinking about this more (basically all I can do right now) but is it possible that the head could be milled down too much? Causing the dowel pins to keep it up higher and not seal?

i helped a friend do an MR2 we had that exact same problem only we never got it running, as soon as we put coolant in, it pored out from in between the head and block. pulled them out, ground them down a little, put it all back togeather... no issues.
 
been thinking about this more (basically all I can do right now) but is it possible that the head could be milled down too much? Causing the dowel pins to keep it up higher and not seal?

Thats a good observation. But my brother had a head on decked to the max and it didnt have any problems. Maybe the dowel pins are not all the way in? You could grind them down. You should spray copper coat spray on the gasket so it will stick. If you did a compression test you will see if it is leaking from the compression chamber of the gasket. You can perform a leak down test too.
 
Thats a good observation. But my brother had a head on decked to the max and it didnt have any problems. Maybe the dowel pins are not all the way in? You could grind them down. You should spray copper coat spray on the gasket so it will stick. If you did a compression test you will see if it is leaking from the compression chamber of the gasket. You can perform a leak down test too.

I did a compression test and it was in the 130's across the board. If I remember correct 6 bolts should be in the 160s. I sprayed copper spray both times. I will check on those dowel pins but I really don't want to grind them down.
 
I did a compression test and it was in the 130's across the board. If I remember correct 6 bolts should be in the 160s. I sprayed copper spray both times. I will check on those dowel pins but I really don't want to grind them down.

120 is the service limit. Add oil, hold it at WOT, then see what your numbers are. Did you rebuild the engine before? Did you make sure the engine is warmed up before the compression test?
 
120 is the service limit. Add oil, hold it at WOT, then see what your numbers are. Did you rebuild the engine before? Did you make sure the engine is warmed up before the compression test?

Im away from the car now but no the engine is a stock 6 bolt. And yes the engine was warmed up.

From what I looked at the dowel pins are fine. What is the best way to remove them to grind down.
 
Im away from the car now but no the engine is a stock 6 bolt. And yes the engine was warmed up.

From what I looked at the dowel pins are fine. What is the best way to remove them to grind down.

needle nose pliers should take out the dowel pins. I have a hard time believing that the dowel pins are the problem unless the dowel pins are no pushed down all the way.
 
someone else seems to believe that there is material stuck down the stud holes causing the studs to back out. I was pretty positive I cleaned them out really good.
 
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