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removing 16g compessor cover

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1sicvr4

Probationary Member
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Jun 19, 2008
Christchurch, Australia
Hey guys I'm new to the forums :) Well I have to clock my big 16g 180 degrees so I can fit my aftermarket intercooler piping. Appertaley I have to remove my compressor cover to get rid of a pin that will allow me to clock my 16g. How do I remove the compressor cover and can I do it with the turbo still bolted onto the car? Also I read that u can't run an internal wastegate if I clock the turbo is this true? Thanks.
 
To pull the compressor, all you need to do is remove that large cir-clip. The link above recommend using a pair of cir-clip pliers, but I don't. I've found that a pair of needle nose pliers with the ends ground down to a point will work better than cir-clip pliers because they are much stronger. That big cir-clip has alot of tension.

Also, yes you can retain the internal wastegate set-up with a clocked compressor cover, but you will need to weld actuator mounting provisions onto the compressor cover. I'm not sure if it would be worth the time and effort for you; I'll let you decide.

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Could I recommend modifying the J pipe rather than clocking the compressor? You'll have at least an extra $400 in O2 housing and external wastegate to deal with when you could just take the J pipe and a mandrel bend to a welding shop and pop it on.
 
I agree, I hate J pipes. Bolting on my extremepsi J-pipe was the most difficult part of my upgrades. If I ever have to take it off I'll probably clock it as well. Should be easy because I don't run the internal gate either.

As Paul said, use some needle nose pliers for the circlips. I always find that the easiest.
 
I just want to make sure to clock it I basically pull it apart, remove the cir-clip and put in back together? I thought I had to remove the locating pin? Sorry to sound like an idiot guys I'm a newbie at this turbo stuff . Can someone please tell me more about this j-pipe mod? Currently on a tight budget so really not really too keen to go the external wastegate route at this stage. I'd be lucky to see past 18psi on my 510cc injectors so its not really a necessary mod right now anyway.
 
I just want to make sure to clock it I basically pull it apart, remove the cir-clip and put in back together? I thought I had to remove the locating pin?
To access the locating pin, you need to have the compressor cover removed.

So,
1) remove cir-clip
2) lift compressor cover off
3) remove locating pin
4) set compressor cover back in place, clocked at the desired direction
5) re-install cir-clip
 
glad i found this thread. i was trying to figure out how to take the turbine housing off the ebay china made 16g that i just took off the 1G i bought. cause it has some very BAD shaft play and not sure if the turbine housing itself it chewed up. . .exhaust side was
 
so not to sound stupid ... but to clock the compressor in order to run an aftermarket FMIC setup you HAVE to be externally gated?? im running into the same problem but if i could get away with ditching my j pipe and clocking the compressor cover i would send back the 100 dollar J pipe i bought from DEJON to make my setup work.

however i am running an internally gated 16g.. just curious
 
i actually just ordered the dejon j pipe.. (sorry not trying to thread jack at all).

i was just curious if i could do this to my compressor housing and be able to save my 100 bucks i spent on the dejon piece.
 
97boostedTSI from what I've learnt about this over the past few days you can run an internal wastegate if you clock the turbo BUT you have to weld the actuator onto a new position on the compressor cover. If you can't weld or don't have any friends that can weld it would probably save you a lot of time, money and effort if you just went with an external wastegate. Which is the option I'm gunna go with by the looks of things. Looks like my car will be sitting in the garage for a few more months its just 1 damm thing after the other with that damm car :mad:.
 
I've run an Evo3 16g with a clocked/modified compressor cover & internally gated for a couple of years, just like the photos in post #3. The cover is going back on my new E3 next week, as well. No problems whatsoever. I'd pay for the welding over the j-pipe again, even if it was the same cost. It keeps the engine bay looking cleaner, and you'll have a shorter intake track.
 
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