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Questions regarding "new to me" unknown mods 96gst

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Slobra300

Probationary Member
17
0
Jul 11, 2008
Yulee, Florida
First off I have been doing alot of research on here for answers and have learned alot of usefull stuff so thanks! This website is very helpfull but... I need specific questions answered so I apoligize if Im duplicating a thread.. I just bought a 96gst with 6 bolt swap through a friend who knows the car and the recent owner. To make things a little difficult I bought the car site unseen but only because I trust my friend alot and he was actully going to buy it first so when the chance came up for me.. I took it. 6 bolt has 25,000 miles, cams (not sure on specs), fmic, bov to atsmophere, tbe, upgraded turbo(dont know which) boost controller. Thats about all I know. My friend test drove the car and it runs great he says. The car hauls ass as he put it. Its just been sitting for about a year and needs some tlc.. Thats all fine and dandy but I am a perfectionist and want to redo everything. My question is (sorry it took so long to get here) about tuning. My biggest concern. How do I figure out if hes running a chipped eprom, or what type of tuning he has done to the car? There isnt an safc hooked up or anything visible but the car runs great and has decent mods so I know the car has to have some type of tuning. And suggestions to complete tuning set up would be helpfull also. Neo+ eprom, dsmlink, and where does the maft play in to this. My goal is eventully atleast 400whp so... Thanks for any help...
 
Looks like you have a long way to go. lets just start off by doing the maintenance and some cleaning.

to see if your running any kind of tuning device, take out your ecu and check it if its already chipped.

the car looks pretty clean from the outside except for some of the dings on the hood.
 
Looks like you have a long way to go. lets just start off by doing the maintenance and some cleaning.

to see if your running any kind of tuning device, take out your ecu and check it if its already chipped.

the car looks pretty clean from the outside except for some of the dings on the hood.



Sound good.. Yea Im gonna replace the hood, do a 97-99 front end conversion to clean it up a bit. And a major cleaning on everything + full tune up. I was reading about the maf and will convert it back also. Im in Iraq right now but will soon be home for 2 weeks leave so at the end of my time back home Im going to pull the engine-trans so I can have the car repainted also. Plus take advantage of having the engine out inspect/clean it. I think thats a good start for now. Thanks for the advice...
 
weird. im surprised its not running horribly with the BOV dumping to atmosphere without the MAF-T. Also, are you sure it's an upgraded turbo? I ask because from the pictures I can't see a J-Pipe and it would need one for a 16g (most common turbo upgrade). Other than that, looks like a really clean car. Just think, once you get the BOV recircd and the other kinks worked out it's going to 'haul ass' even more.
 
weird. im surprised its not running horribly with the BOV dumping to atmosphere without the MAF-T. Also, are you sure it's an upgraded turbo? I ask because from the pictures I can't see a J-Pipe and it would need one for a 16g (most common turbo upgrade). Other than that, looks like a really clean car. Just think, once you get the BOV recircd and the other kinks worked out it's going to 'haul ass' even more.


Yea I thought the same thing myself. Like I said Im still overseas so Ive learned alot about the car from just inspecting the pics and talking to my buddy. He test drove the car 3 days ago and said the only thing it needs to be a dd is a new fr axle. Ima just replace both of em. Other than that it runs great which like you said is kinda strage concidering.. But after trying to zoom in I thought I could see a j pipe but wasnt really sure. The res. of the pic my buddy took was kinda crappy. Either way Ill prob go with a evoIII big 16g untill I verify whats actully in the block. . The previous owner has dumped alot of money into the car about a year ago like a brand new trans, clutch+flywheel but just lost intrest and let the car sit. His loss will be my gain. Ima just start by recirculating the bov and go from there. I just cant wait to get the engine out so I can strip it and paint it. Get everything powder coated by Bonehead and put it back together. All I can do is plan from here though.. In time...
 
Looks like it could be a 14b/16g type turbo. In the picture you can see the hose clamp on the LICP on the left side of the radiator hose. Then the stock 1g style outlet elbow. It is possible for them to be using the 1g outlet elbow and some flexible hose to connect it to the SMIC.
 
with the BOV being disconnected you wont always notice a big difference, when i bought my car it was off and ran fine to me, but get better milage now with it hooked up right
 
that would be possible if he had a SMIC but in his list of mods he said he has a front mount. it looks like the stock T25
 
Hey looks like a stock turbo or maybe a t28 in my opinion because the stock heat shielding is in place. Also i had a 98gst and i ran an hks bov uncirculated with the stock maf. In fact i still am and ive done turbo swap dsmlink etc. In all the years ive had my bov(about 4 or 5) the car has never run poorly due to that and ive never been told i should get it recirculated. If youre going to get a 16g you should try to find one from an evo 8 or 9. The 16gs from those are awesome the regular big 16g not so awesome.
 
^^:rolleyes:^^

NO-NO an Evo 8 or 9 turbo will not work on our motors. Everything on their engines are setup the opposite direction of ours.

I am pretty sure that the turbo that is on the car in question has a 14b/16g style turbo. You can see where the outlet elbow is bolted to the turbo's compressor housing to the left of the heat shield. And just because it has the stock heat shielding on it does not mean it's the stock T25/T28. Possibly the person that swapped engines had a good 14b on the engine and just left it on there.
 
The only Lancer Evolution turbos that fit our cars are the 16G's from the Evolution III, which have the same engine orientation as our cars do.

Information here:

Slowboy Racing :: DSM :: Turbos :: Mitsubishi :: MHI EVO III 16G

About the only thing that people *normally* fit from the Evo8/9 on our cars are the fuel pump, and sometimes, the injectors. ;)


Hey looks like a stock turbo or maybe a t28 in my opinion because the stock heat shielding is in place. Also i had a 98gst and i ran an hks bov uncirculated with the stock maf. In fact i still am and ive done turbo swap dsmlink etc. In all the years ive had my bov(about 4 or 5) the car has never run poorly due to that and ive never been told i should get it recirculated. If youre going to get a 16g you should try to find one from an evo 8 or 9. The 16gs from those are awesome the regular big 16g not so awesome.
 
^^:rolleyes:^^

NO-NO an Evo 8 or 9 turbo will not work on our motors. Everything on their engines are setup the opposite direction of ours.

I am pretty sure that the turbo that is on the car in question has a 14b/16g style turbo. You can see where the outlet elbow is bolted to the turbo's compressor housing to the left of the heat shield. And just because it has the stock heat shielding on it does not mean it's the stock T25/T28. Possibly the person that swapped engines had a good 14b on the engine and just left it on there.



You are correct. I was able to confirm the turbo today and it is a 16g however I dont know what style. And after more inspection on the pic (zooming in) I can see the j pipe. On another note I have a noob question. Im still learning as this will be my first boosted car but Im a mechanic for a living. Only thing is I work on 903ci turbo diesels in Bradleys for the army. LOL But anyways my budy told me that while the car was parked for a year.. some asshole decided to break into the car and tried to steal the boost controller (dont know what type but I do know its electronic). But all the guy managed to do was break the face off of the bc rendering it usless and disconnected. How will this affect the current boost? Will the car default to factory boost? When he test drove it he said its def. boosting but didnt know how much as there is no boost guage except the factory pos...
 
Yea don't bother even looking at the stock POS gauge. I would take a vacuum line and run it from the Intake manifold to the wastegate actuator that way it will run just base boost. Which on a 16g will be around 9-12 PSI. Do this of course just until you get a real boost gauge and a boost controller of some sorts.
 
Yea don't bother even looking at the stock POS gauge. I would take a vacuum line and run it from the Intake manifold to the wastegate actuator that way it will run just base boost. Which on a 16g will be around 9-12 PSI. Do this of course just until you get a real boost gauge and a boost controller of some sorts.

I see. Makes sense.. Im thinking Apexi AVCR because you can limit boost in specific gears.. Sounds good on paper but have you heard of this really working for fwd dsm's. I mean if its not worth the money then I would just go with the profec...
 
I have no hands on experience with that type of EBC but I don't see how it knows what gear you are in? If it's a manual there is nothing that tells the ECU or the EBC what gear it is in to limit the boost. Therefore I don't see it working very well for that purpose. I may be wrong but that's how I see it.

If that car has very much exhaust work done to it depending on what mm flapper is in the wastegate you might have a problem with boost creep. I know I do. I set mine to 15psi and at about 5000 RPM it is up to about 20-21psi by redline. So, I got bigger injectors and set my boost to 20psi and now I get 22psi by redline. No EBC will help you with this problem seeing as how you are limited to what is done to the wastegate in this situation. I need to pull mine off and port the hell out of it.
 
I have no hands on experience with that type of EBC but I don't see how it knows what gear you are in? If it's a manual there is nothing that tells the ECU or the EBC what gear it is in to limit the boost. Therefore I don't see it working very well for that purpose. I may be wrong but that's how I see it.

If that car has very much exhaust work done to it depending on what mm flapper is in the wastegate you might have a problem with boost creep. I know I do. I set mine to 15psi and at about 5000 RPM it is up to about 20-21psi by redline. So, I got bigger injectors and set my boost to 20psi and now I get 22psi by redline. No EBC will help you with this problem seeing as how you are limited to what is done to the wastegate in this situation. I need to pull mine off and port the hell out of it.

Yea the thought had already crossed my mind. I know what you mean by porting but what do you use to do it? A dremel or something?? And what a safe tolerance to go by so you dont take to much off of the inner outlet?
 
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