Slave extension

[vanilla gorilla]

So I just put in my new clutch and it looks like I am going to need to get the slave cylinder extension rod, but wanted to check just to make sure.

So I put a new clutch in. On the new pressure plate, the fingers are positioned more towards the engine than the tranny (if tha makes sense) in comparison to the old PP. Basically, after the slave adjusted there wasnt much travel left on the rod. It has alot longer to travel before the TOB reaches the pressure plate. Theres nothing else wrong with the system, the PP is just made differently, where the fingers are more recessed than on the old unit. I noticed this before I put it on.

Anyways, I tested the clutch with the car off the ground. After bleeding it thoroughly and adjusting the pedal, it just doesnt release all the way. And I was just wanting to make sure that this would fix my problem.

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/cust...cat=691&page=1

Thanks
vanilla g

 

[dlb21]

What type of clutch is it. Stock or Performance. It is best to get the extension with a performance. Also see if the tranny moves in the slightest as the tranny/ Motor mounts may be worn and are alowing the rod to push the tranny away. You can also check your adjustments for the master cylinder/pedal travel. I didnt see if you had a 2g or 1 g but the 1g have clutch pedal problems. Before I got my extended and the new mounts I got the clutch to disengage for a while by ajusting the clutch pedal to master cylinder rod. But in the end ive read that its better to get the extended rod.

 

[nates6969]

First of all what clutch are you running? you link doesnt appear to work... and if its a clutch designed for a dsm (obviously is) then the fingers on the pp should be outward facing. Are you sure the PP was torqued down correctly and was seated against the flywheel evenly?

You should never need to extend a slave rod. and even if you did you wouldn't get any more travel out of it as the system would just compensate and push the rod further into the slave unless you extend it so far where you are bottoming out the pistion. In this case you would preload your clutch and slowly destroy your TOB.

The only way to truely obtain a longer travel is change slave or master cylinder diameters and really you shouldn't have to be even considering that...

my bet is theres something messed up with the PP...

 

[spoonman]

I do not recommended ever using an extension rod, it will only cover up a problem not fix it. If the fingers on the installed clutch are not exactly vertical then you need to loosen or tighten the pressure plate mounting bolts. To tight and and the clutch will not engage to its full potential and to loose and the pressure plate will give to much pressure when the pedal is pushed in and the car will roll.

 

[Defiant]

So I just put in my new clutch and it looks like I am going to need to get the slave cylinder extension rod

No. Never.

 

[vanilla gorilla]

Its a 2g. Its a fidanza 3.2 kit and fidanza flywheel, and yes its for a dsm, . I tourqued all the bolts to fidanzas specs.

I didnt have this problem with the last performance clutch I put in this car, because the last performance clutch had the pressure plate fingers designed more like stock.

We put a performance clutch in a car just like mine at school, and it had the same problem as I am having now. So what we did was drop the tranny and remove the pivot ball that the TOB fork sits on. We put shims behind the pivot ball and reinstalled it. This fixed the problem. But I dont want to drop my tranny again to do it, so I was thinking that the slave extension would help, but I guess not.

 

[RoasT BeeF]

Adding washers would be the correct way to fix the problem. Extending the slave rod is not. Quote from RRE:

The release bearing arm and the pivot ball will wear over time. Replacing both is one way to deal with the problem. Adding a washer or two under the arm is another way.
When the transmission is first installed in the car and just bolted down to the motor, this is the time to check the wear on the arm and ball. Checking it right that moment will save hours of hassle later! Look at where the arm protrudes out through the square boot on the front lower bell housing. With the arm pushed over towards the passenger side so that the release bearing is just touching the clutch, the arm should be either in the center of the square hole or towards the driver's side of center line.

If the arm is sitting off towards the passenger side, you need to pull the transmission back out and add a washer or two. This gets things back in line. If you don't, the hydraulics in trying to take up all the extra slack, will push the arm over and bottom out on the inner bell housing. If you are fighting clutch adjustment problems on an existing clutch install, get under the car and check this out. If you remove a crossmember to see it better, you can pull off the rubber boot and look in the bell housing with a flash light while an assistant pushes on the clutch pedal. You may see the arm hitting the inner bell housing.

If you are having problems with a clutch adjustment, don't be tempted to try to lengthen the clutch slave cylinder rod. It may work for a few symptoms (worn pedal assembly mostly) but it is not the right way to fix things. In order to take up additional free play, it puts constant pressure on the release bearing.

 

[clockworktoy]

I ran an extended slave rod for a while before deciding to properly fix my problem and getting a new fork/ball from RRE. And on a sidenote the extended rod made my slave take a shit within a couple months from the install period.

 

[4Motion4g63]

not to thread jack but could this also cause TOB rattles when its out of gear.....

 

[RoasT BeeF]

Generally when a throw out bearing rattles its because it is worn out and needs replaced.

 

[vanilla gorilla]

Thanks for the info guys. I'm not going to invest in the slave extension.