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Dsmlink Run File, Can i get some feedback?

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eder-loco

15+ Year Contributor
133
0
Feb 19, 2006
pasadena, Texas
sorry if it was posted in the wrong section, but.
i dont have acces to the tuning section, I can read but Cant post.
here is a Log i recorded, Trying to see what u guys think.

couple of runs in the same log file.
 
Have you posted on the link forums yet? They will be more help to you on this type of subject then tuners will.
 
Looks like a good run. You still have your a/f ratio props set for 450cc injectors though...
 
Either raise your 3500rpm timing slider your lower the 4000rpm one at least. Going from 5 to 11 degrees that quickly will make it very easy to knock. What I would do and see how it works is:
3500+3
3000+2
2500+2
2000+2

Did you tune the ltft's?

Please do just a 3rd gear pull from around 2,000 rpm to whatever you shift at. Include mafraw in the values that you capture.

How much boost?

Send them an email at [email protected] Include the chip number, date made, your desired username, and desired password in the email. The number and date can be found on the chip.
 
No, Cant post on that forum. i brought it used and the damn guy never transfer the stuff to my Name.

Mods are on my profile wich include 880s

He doesn't have to transfer anything for you. You contact them yourself with your link number and they'll set you up. No more answers for you incase you're running a fake..
 
its not his fault if hes running a fake( if he truley did buy it like that)

your knocking at your boost peak, lower your timing sliders ( 4k-7k) down at least 2 clicks, your going to make more power without knock. also you need to calibrate your maf. dsmlink wiki shows you how to do this. your 70-90 isnt bad( 2.25) tune for no knock and check back.
 
I'm assuming you don't want to listen to my advice in post #7 where I said:

"Either raise your 3500rpm timing slider your lower the 4000rpm one at least. Going from 5 to 11 degrees that quickly will make it very easy to knock. What I would do and see how it works is:
3500+3
3000+2
2500+2
2000+2"
 
Are the injectors PTE880's? Yourl LTFT low fuel trim needs adjsuted, you're at -12.5. I have -49 and 330 ms with +/-1 on my fuel trims for my 880's on gas. Check out jeffgst.com, he has a lot of helpful info on his page.
 
Are the injectors PTE880's? Yourl LTFT low fuel trim needs adjsuted, you're at -12.5. I have -49 and 330 ms with +/-1 on my fuel trims for my 880's on gas. Check out jeffgst.com, he has a lot of helpful info on his page.

i was reading on that, but cant find where to adjust those at.
* EDIT * i found where to type this in.
 
I'm assuming you don't want to listen to my advice in post #7 where I said:

"Either raise your 3500rpm timing slider your lower the 4000rpm one at least. Going from 5 to 11 degrees that quickly will make it very easy to knock. What I would do and see how it works is:
3500+3
3000+2
2500+2
2000+2"

Ok, So my sliders are at +4 from 4k to 5.5k And +3 from 6k to 7k. Thats what i am gonna lower down right?
 
its not his fault if hes running a fake( if he truley did buy it like that)

Who's fault is it then if he didn't do his homework? The guys at link have to suffer for his (or anyones) lack of ensuring things are on the up and up?

I've since emailed him to explain how to sign up on the link board. No response back yet (a day), and he is online so think what you will. I only made the comment because it's not fair to the entire community for someone to steal (not saying in this case) and then try to get the answers for free too. I like to ensure people are being honest with us, before handing out help to scammers. (again not saying this case applies)
 
Btw i tried connecting my AEM wideband to the Ecu, And everytime i powered my wideband, my front o2 would read 1.10V , but when i turned off the power for it, the Front o2 would go back down to 0.06-0.08 At Idle. Am i doing something wrong?
Also the AEMWBGAUGE On the display would just sit at 10.1 :1. would not move from there.
 
Btw i tried connecting my AEM wideband to the Ecu, And everytime i powered my wideband, my front o2 would read 1.10V , but when i turned off the power for it, the Front o2 would go back down to 0.06-0.08 At Idle. Am i doing something wrong?
Also the AEMWBGAUGE On the display would just sit at 10.1 :1. would not move from there.

What pin did you wire it into? I wired mine into the back o2, which is pin 75.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/281763-2g-turbo-ecu-pinout-w-wire-colors.html
 

That seems strange, the rear o2 pin should have no effect on the front o2.

BTW: Your front o2 should be cycling at idle, from .06-.92 or somewhere's in that range. If it's not, then your front o2 sensor is having issues itself.

Edit: You're using the white analog wire, right? Double check it's pin 75 that your wiring it into.
 
i mean, it does go up and down like its suppose to. But once the wideband gets power from me switching it on. It just goes to 1.20 and doesnt move from there. i'll recheck my connections. to the ecu


*EDIT* yes it was on the wrong pin.

Going to connect wires again into ECU tomorrow, Lower Timing slider from 4-7 By 2clicks.And repost back with another log.
not getting how to calibrate the MAF do.. :-\
 
Ok there is 3 new Logs.


First one i drove a little bit then i hit it.
Second was the first run after the timing change.
Last run was when i got home and i let my car sit for about 3 mnts and it started to act weird.
my wideband was reading 11.2 steady while just parked there. i revved it a little and it went away.
This runs were Logged with my AEM wideban, on 20psi.
 

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