Car sputters, dies, and then starts fine

[myeagleneedmods]

When I get in my car in the morning, I start up the car and it will struggle to get past 1k rpm and then will die unless I press the gas pedal. If it does die before I press the pedal, it will start up fine when I start it again and then I wont have this problem again until the next morning. Any explanation for this?

 

[nobgsx]

dont mean to thread jack but mine does the same thing. mine has the coolant lines removed from the tb, from the fiv so figured it just had something to do with it.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

Sounds like your fuel pump/seals may be going out. It could be a number of other things as well like your coolant temp sensor, ECU going bad (unlikely, but possible) and other things as well. When you go to crank it in the morning, turn it to on for a few seconds and wait for the CEL to go off, then try and crank it. If it starts correctly, it is more than likely your fuel pump loosing pressure over night.

 

[joyfil2001]

definately sounds like a fuel pressure problem. if you could get a fuel pressure gauge on there you would be able to figure it out.

 

[daarkness92]

+1 on fuel pressure but also check out your spark plugs

 

[wises4057]

i thought id bring this thread back by saying, so mine does the same thing...i checked fuel pressure...right on the mark to factory #'s. If the return fuel gasket was leaking on the pump, would it show up the fuel pressure gauge? i would think not since it is located before the regulator, and wouldn't read low pressure behind it.

The other thing it started doing at about the same time was acting like it has a boost leak right at the start of boost(around 3k-3.5k rpms), but after studdering for a second at the start of light boost, it pulls fine...but can't find a leak anywhere(have done a boost leak test). The car is completely stock, with 76k miles on it. I understand the coolant temp sensor could be causing the issue with cold starts in the morning, but would it also cause that feeling of a boost leak like that? Or could it be an issue with the MAS(since the IAT sensor is fixed in there)?

any suggestions would be great!

Thanks

 

[talon2gbuyer]

gonna revive this thread for a sec.. recently had an issue where the head-to-turbo coolant hose ruptured on me. was able to get it to the parking lot and then replaced the hose. I think i got to it before it over-heated, but who knows. So anyway, on the way home it would start up (cold) just fine, run for a few seconds then start sputtering and eventually die what looked like a painful death (motor bucking all over the place) and my A/F's would be around 16.5-18. So after it would die I would start it back up, and a few seconds later, same situation.

So i brought the car home and ended up changing out a few things and inspecting the crankshaft, and the rod bearings. No scoring or damage to the bearings or the crankshaft, no coolant in the oil, so I ended up re-sealing the oil pan, cleaning it out, replacing the PCV valve, resealing the valve cover, and re-filling the car with fresh oil and new coolant. Now everything is back together and it is still making the same problem. Anyone have even the slightest idea of what I should check next? I have a compression tester on the way, should be here on Wednesday, so ill update with compression numbers once I get them. I've just run low on ideas of what to check, thanks guys!

 

[talon2gbuyer]

rawr! ok, this issue is stumping me big time . I just went outside to see if the car would replicate the symptoms again, and this time it turned over, and ran like a champ until i turned it off almost 10 minutes later. No over-heating, no sputtering, no stalling (still no oil pressure, not even sure why that is happening) but nothing! has anyone ever experienced a car that has a mind of its own?

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

I told you the hangout thread its your crack sensor. If your tach is bouncing/car backfires/pops when giving it gas when it sputters then for sure.

Only other thing that causes similar symptoms is your cam sensor. Both are very likely to be the problem.

Imo your wasting your time with a compression test. You need to be looking at your sensors.

 

[talon2gbuyer]

hmm. ok i'll give those a go then, not a bad thing to replace maintenance wise anyway since as far as I know they could both be stock, who knows . Thanks man

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

If you want you could just change your crank sensor first. since it can be done at the same time.

I recommend oem sensors too. As it usually takes me two sensors from the parts store to get a,good one and I hate doing a job twice.

 

[spadepro22]

In your earlier post you stated no oil pressure, check the connection to your oil sending unit. Its notorious for coming off on 1g's

 

[talon2gbuyer]

Ok i'll check those out this coming weekend. Also, where is the connector for the oil sending unit? i took it off when inspecting the crankshaft, but i didnt see any plug for it? maybe i just missed it?

 

[spadepro22]

Ok i'll check those out this coming weekend. Also, where is the connector for the oil sending unit? i took it off when inspecting the crankshaft, but i didnt see any plug for it? maybe i just missed it?

It's a little nub on the end of the sending unit. On a 1g its a green wire connected to, probably in the same location on a 2g.

 

[talon2gbuyer]

Ok I checked that and both ends are securely fastened as they were before. I know someone mentioned a crank sensor, but for damn near $80 is there any telltale signs that the sensor is bad?