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1g LC-1 Wideband Install?

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Can someone point me in the right direction to a 1g LC-1 install? Thank you.

What do you want to know? I have mine installed.

Here is what I wrote up on DSMLink to install it to the ECU... if you don't have DSMLink your install will be different since the ECU will not recognize the WB.

The reason I am asking is that Welded the bung about 1.5 ft from the turbo outlet and just before the flex section of my down pipe. The wiring from the Sensor to the plug is not long enough to reach to the rear O2 hole (under driver seat), so I will need mount the LC-1 module on the underside of the car and route the wires up through the hole. I intend to remove the Rear O2 and cut the harness and solder:
- LC-1 (YELLOW) to Rear O2 (WHITE) - Signal
- LC-1 (GREEN) and LC-1 (WHITE) to Rear O2 (BLACK) - Analog and System Ground
- LC-1 (BLUE) to the Chassis Ground
- LC-1 (BLACK) will be routed under the arm rest and the LED and reset switch mounted into the arm rest
- LC-1 (BROWN) wil be taped up and not used
- LC-1 (Serial IN) will be routed to the armrest in the same manner as the Reset Switch

Universal Digital Tuning Products and Tuning Tools from Innovate Motorsports

I ended up cutting the Rear O2 sensor [Pin 75 on 2g, I believe] wire going to the ECU and soldered the Yellow LC-1 wire to the ECU. I then spliced in the White and Green wires to pin 81, i believe which should be sensor ground. Blue I wired to a chassis ground point and Red was wired to cigarette lighter. Brown was taped up.

I mounted the unit on the center frame brace and routed the wires into the cab by cutting a small slitt at the bottom of the steering rubber boot.

I then set DSMLink to ignore rear O2 faults and calibrated the LC-1 per manufactors recommendations. It took me longer than I anticipated, ~4 hours, but I spent alot of the time trying to loosen the cap on the bung I had previously welded onto the DP a week prior (~2 hrs to weld the bung to the DP, stupid O2 sensor studs seized to the nuts and were a pain to get the studs restarted) and had seized up (I believe #10 hex fits cap), as well as replacing the stock front O2 with a new one since I was so inclined. I also spent alot of time triple checking my pin counts and wire to ensure they were correct.
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I have the bung installed already, I just wanted know what wires went where for a 1g. Thanks.

Has anyone had success pulling off logs with Vista?
 
I have the bung installed already, I just wanted know what wires went where for a 1g. Thanks.
If datalogging via the supplied Innovative LogWorks Software/Gauge then just follow the included directions for power/grounds as it is otherwise self-contained. If using another datalogging software package (DSMLink/MMCD..etc) that does not have an AUX Input, you will need to wire the LC-1's analog output to an unused OEM sensor (MPD, EGRT) and calibrate depending on the software you are using :dsm:
 
Ok, so I can just wire it up as noted in the instructions, log from my laptop using LogWorks, and just use my MMCD logger as it is?

That sounds like the setup I am looking for, as I have no WB display , neither do I want one.
 
Ok, so I can just wire it up as noted in the instructions, log from my laptop using LogWorks, and just use my MMCD logger as it is?

That sounds like the setup I am looking for, as I have no WB display , neither do I want one.
Yea, can log both the MMCD and LogWorks separate. LogWorks is pretty cool in that you could add several other Innovate products and daisy chain them together and have additional external data to what the ECU/MMCD will provide. I believe you can also log an external input via the EGRT line by setting the LC-1 to a particular range of outup V/AFR, but haven't used that software in years so dunno.
 
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