dont laugh too hard at my drag times.

[PIMking]

1st run

r/t .609 ( i know first time in a LONG time)
60' 2.192
330 6.221
1/8 9.561
mph 74.49
1000 12.375
1/4 14.746
MPH 94.83

2nd Run

r/t .429
60' 2.048
330 6.145
1/8 9.572
MPH 70.10
1000 13.010
1/4 16.443
MPH 61.02

The clutch was slipping in 2nd and 3rd gear in the first run
the clutch was slipping REAL BAD in the 2nd run so I shut her down before the 1/8th.

I just replaced the clutch with an OEM stock clutch kit, but if it held I would assume the time and speed would of been ALOT BETTER. This was a test run to see what happens when I put on my mods here in the next month.

Like Injectors, Cams and gears, Header and O2 housing, afc, Flywheel and Clutch, FMIC, Fuel pump, Dyno and tuning.

I ran this on 93 octane street tires and 15 psi. Tell me what you think after you get done laughing.

 

[casperfast]

slipping on a new clutch? did u resurface the flywheel? oil on disc (possible rear main seal)? bad adjustment(done at pedal?

 

[PIMking]

Well I just bought the OEM kit knowing that in a month or two that im getting the fidanza Flywheel and stronger clutch. so that was just to get me by for a couple of months. No I didnt resurface the flywheel no oil on clutch. No the rear main doesnt leak. how do I adjust the clutch?

like I said this is a base line until I get everything on and dyno and tune the car to see what I will run then.

 

[dsm-onster]

Your base line should be better.

Also you MUST MUST MUST resurface or at least CHECK your flywheel step height. This ain't no gm fowspeed.

 

[casperfast]

you adjust the clutch at the push rod on the top of your clutch pedal, out is more grip, in is more slip. adjust it until you have 1-1.5 in. freeplay when the padal is all the way out. or to your liking

 

[PIMking]

This is the Clutch that came out of the Car.

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[silver bullit]

Wow dont work on cars no more. You need to check the flywheel and How many miles did you break the clutch in?

You can bleed the clutch, ad washers to the pivot ball to help the release/tight and need to check your clutch master cylinder, bleed it and check the whole system pretty much.

 

[ROOKIE1]

, what were you dragging .

 

[PIMking]

Wow dont work on cars no more. You need to check the flywheel and How many miles did you break the clutch in?

You can bleed the clutch, ad washers to the pivot ball to help the release/tight and need to check your clutch master cylinder, bleed it and check the whole system pretty much.

Harsh man. like I said before I didnt care that the clutch wouldnt last too long since I am going to put a performance clutch so thats why I didnt do it. Dont tell me that you never cut corners before.

 

[silver bullit]

Harsh man. like I said before I didnt care that the clutch wouldnt last too long since I am going to put a performance clutch so thats why I didnt do it. Dont tell me that you never cut corners before.

Yeah dont mean to come off as an ass hat but this is why you dont do it cause now you have to rip it apart again and waste more money and down time.

 

[PIMking]

Yeah dont mean to come off as an ass hat but this is why you dont do it cause now you have to rip it apart again and waste more money and down time.

The pics are the one that blew out on me. So I had no car what so ever so I bought a oem from Oreilly's and put it in waiting for my parts to come in the mail. I knew that I was going to have to do that anyways. so to me it was no biggie.

 

[kewlguy]

well it's about right for stock. my fastest run was a 14.79 with sub and everything in it on my GS-T

 

[BoostFrenzy]

Like Injectors, Cams and gears, Header and O2 housing, afc, Flywheel and Clutch, FMIC, Fuel pump, Dyno and tuning.

Cam gears aren't really needed unless you REALLY want to fine tune the car.

It's called a manifold not a "header". Get it straight . j/k

And as for the dyno tunning, instead of paying for that, just buy a logger and a wideband O2 sensor and tune it yourself with the AFC. That way, not only can you tune it, but also monitor it while you are driving, and check codes, and so on and so forth.

 

[dsm-onster]

Also, you can get a FW with a corrected step height and insured to be flat from advance auto for $30 + core charge. This is about how much it would cost if you had a machine shop spec/shave your FW.

 

[PIMking]

I was thinking of a lightweight flywheel. Is that going to help?

 

[boostnhard]

Oh yes, i just put one on (fidanza) about 10 lbs light. RPM are fast as ####

 

[rarson]

Cam gears are needed if you're not using stock cams. How the hell are you supposed to degree the cams you bought without cam gears? Unfortunately, not all cams are precisely ground.

The Fidanza is definitely lighter than 10 lbs. I think it's 8 or less for a 1g? I can't remember. The 2g one is about half a pound lighter (AWD, anyway). The lighter flywheel is going to make the car even harder to launch. With a stock 2g clutch, I was able to run low 13's and consistent 1.8 60-fts. What mods do you have done to the car? If you're driving pretty good, then your mph shouldn't be hurting too much from the slipping clutch (and from the mph, it seems like your clutch shouldn't be slipping... did you break it in before running at the track?).

And I really don't mean to be an ass, but the word is TUNING. There are only 2 "n"s in TUNING. It drives me nuts when I see the word "tunning." Basic English, people.

I don't think you're getting the most out of your parts. If your clutch was slipping, I think it's because of your driving more than your power.

 

[PIMking]

Cam gears are needed if you're not using stock cams. How the hell are you supposed to degree the cams you bought without cam gears? Unfortunately, not all cams are precisely ground.

The Fidanza is definitely lighter than 10 lbs. I think it's 8 or less for a 1g? I can't remember. The 2g one is about half a pound lighter (AWD, anyway). The lighter flywheel is going to make the car even harder to launch. With a stock 2g clutch, I was able to run low 13's and consistent 1.8 60-fts. What mods do you have done to the car? If you're driving pretty good, then your mph shouldn't be hurting too much from the slipping clutch (and from the mph, it seems like your clutch shouldn't be slipping... did you break it in before running at the track?).

And I really don't mean to be an ass, but the word is TUNING. There are only 2 "n"s in TUNING. It drives me nuts when I see the word "tunning." Basic English, people.

I don't think you're getting the most out of your parts. If your clutch was slipping, I think it's because of your driving more than your power.

I am going to buy an act clutch kit and just a oem or resurface my flywheel.

Im not sure if I should get the 550's or 650's but the fuel pump is on its way and im trying to find a used safc. and a fmic. I know what cams i want but im going to do the timing belt at the same time as the cams.

driving more than your power? what exactly does that mean?

I had about 500 miles on the clutch before I really did anything. I did it knowing that i was going to change it in a month or two anyways.

 

[rarson]

The runs were made on the OEM unit that you replaced the old clutch with, right? I'm saying that if you're going to be running high 13s/low 14's, the OEM clutch should be good enough to hold. It's possible that you're slipping it too much, heating it up, and causing the clutch to slip when boost hits. By the way, if the clutch starts to slip in second gear, don't keep on the throttle. It'll only slip worse and worse in higher gears. Once you heat it up it looses more and more friction capability and eventually will turn to "kitty hair" (in the words of RRE). That's probably why you had to back off on your second run.

Which reminds me! I'm currently driving my car around with an OEM clutch in it, too. It's got probably a couple thousand miles on it, basically new, and it almost always holds second (17-18 psi, hard to tell just by watching the gauge). 16 psi and third gear is toast, so I can't do WOT pulls (not that I like to on the street with an external wastegate). Now why is my clutch holding in second gear and yours isn't? My car ran 11.91 @ 22 psi. See what I'm saying? I think maybe you're slipping it too much. Either that, or you've got some problem with the step height, pedal adjustment, or one of the other things mentioned.

I logged a buttload of 15-20 psi runs on both the T-25 and small 16g (prior to cams and DSMLink) on the stock clutch and only had slipping once I hit about 45k miles (in other words, it was just worn out).

Regarding mods, what kind of cams are you planning on getting? For fuel injectors, you should be okay with 550's (staying with the 14b, right?). I'm guessing it will be easier to get the car running well with the smaller injectors (550's versus 650's) with the AFC. By the way, I actually have an AFC I'm not using. PM me if you're interested (it's an old-school 5-knob, not the flashy blue kind, but it's way easier to use).

 

[PIMking]

pm sent

 

[PIMking]

I adjusted the clutch and it seems to hold a bit better. If my MRI comes back okay I might head back up to the drag strip friday and see what she will do this weekend. I got my ACT on the way.

I found that my turbo is making a weird noise. kinda sounds like a super charger buzz while in boost only. It seems to run hard as normal and no smoke and no shaft play I will do a boost leak test and see if something is leaking.

 

[rarson]

My guess is a boost leak, but you might also want to check to make sure nothing is interfering with the compressor wheel.

You don't even want to know what happened to the 14b I had on my car before the 16g. Let's just say I know how much boost a 14b with NO compressor fins makes.

 

[casperfast]

i lightweight flywheel will make the rpms rev faster, but the heavy flywheel actually adds alot of torque because of its weight and momentom it takes alot more load to slown the motor. and that stock clutch disc is completly gone. the pressure plate it burnished with hardened hot spots and grooves. im sore your flywheel on there is screwed

 

[95redturboawd]

I read somewhere that the stock quarter mile time is 15.1, so your first run wasn't too shabby.

 

[rarson]

i lightweight flywheel will make the rpms rev faster, but the heavy flywheel actually adds alot of torque because of its weight and momentom it takes alot more load to slown the motor.

Not quite. You got the right idea, but the explanation is a little off.

A heavy flywheel doesn't add anything. In fact, it sucks up power. That's the whole point of a flywheel. A flywheel stores energy.

Think of rolling a tire down the street, versus rolling a penny across a counter. The heavy tire keeps rolling for a much longer distance, because it's heavier and has more inertia. A heavy flywheel will hold more energy, which is good *when you want flywheel speed to remain the same.* Such as in a launch situation. However, once you begin accelerating down the track, the flywheel speed is constantly changing. In this situation, the heavy flywheel is just sucking up power that the engine is making.

At any given moment in a car's acceleration, a heavy flywheel is actually sucking up power because the engine has to accelerate all that extra weight.