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2G Conversion?

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interex

15+ Year Contributor
1,039
1
Apr 28, 2008
Centralia, Illinois
What exactly is a 2G 6bolt Conversion engine? I was looking at FFWD and It didnt exactly explain what it was. Pretty expensive though heh :/
 
That conversion is to swap out the problematic 7 bolt engine (the amount of bolts it takes to bolt the flywheel to the crankshaft) to the solid 6 bolt.. The 7 bolt engine's suffer from crankwalk, which is basically excessive endplay (back and forth motion) on the crank shaft.. Left un checked, it destroys blocks, and just does alot of nasty things

The 6 bolt 4g63 is a very robust motor, with bigger rods than the 7bolt.. It doesnt suffer from the constant fear of crankwalk, and is a very common swap for 2g head's.. It eliminates the headaches of the 7 bolt engine..
 
Nah I know what the 6 bolt is, I know about the swap, I'm talking about an engine on their site...

This fully cryoed 2.0 1G/2G conversion motor shown here is equipped with Wisecos and Eagles, our SOB piston coating, Level 4 head with Crower spring kit and our Level I custom grind cams with adjustables.

What does the 1G/2G Conversion mean?
 
I figured that was what they meant. I figure its just best to use the 1G head/block together with a sheetmetal intake manifold and bored out TB. I'm putting together a list of stuff I'll need to put together a strong 600whp 6 bolt.
 
From what I understand, the 2g head is the head of choice for a 2g... But The 6 bolt bottom end is the one you want below it..
 
See this is what I'm not understanding... 50% say use the 1G head on the 1G block and the 50% say to use the 95-96 head on the 1G since it wont need the bolt holes bored to 12mm.

Though I've read, the 1G head has better flow and combustion, and the same with the 1.8 head on the 6 bolt. There are too many threads with too much cross communication and miss conceptions. I'm going to be building up my 6 bolt and I'm sure it will take me quite a while to get completed so it is really hard for me to take in the accuracy of what I should do to build a stout engine that will handle up to 650 WHP max.

I guess my first purchase will be the Eagle rods and Wiesco pistons unless taking my pistons from my 95-96 engine, but then again I'm still lost on what is best to do without spending a ton of money for the equal performance.

I'm trying to find someone who's built a nice, strong engine and is willing to talk with me personally about things and help me when I'm stuck on how to do something. I'm really new to the DSM scene and I do know a lot about engines and cars and dont want to be seen as a complete "noob". I've bought a really sweet Talon TSI AWD and just want to build a good, strong, quick engine for the car that will hold up to some occasional hell :p

:talon: Powered by :dsm:
 
If you want 600:

Build the hell out of the bottom.. Strong rods and pistons.. Eagle/Wiseco is great way to go.. Highly suggest an aftermarket crank (eagle?) for that kind of HP

Balance Shaft delete

Oil pump - Upgrade it.. Maybe dry sump (do they have these for DSM)

**All this will give you the ability to HANDLE all the boost you are going to push through it.. Your turbo is your power maker.. ALOT of research needs to be done on your part, because no 2 turbos are alike, and what works for one cat, may not work for you

Fuel system

Walbro 255 and AFPR - Needed for all the fuel that is going to be in demand from the ecu making reading all the air from your huge turbo

Big injectors.. 800+

Full 3" turbo back exhaust..

Open your head up - Again, research will tell you the best combo of cams, IM, and turbo.. Where do you want your power? Mid? High?

Lots of spark.. coil on plug

Big time turbo - You need lots of air for lots of power..

Tune it..

there.. 600 hp

Seriously... Learn what makes HP, and that will let you know what mods you need to do to get there.. Your turbo gives you the air you need to make power.. Your fuel system and ecu deliver the fuel you need to make combustion.. Your spark system makes it go boom.. and your piping and exhaust help get as much air in, as fast as possible, so that is can be moved out for more as fast as possible.. It takes alot of time and reading to figure out what you wanna do..

O yeah? Dont forget to build a tranny that will take that kind of HP..
 
I believe 1993-1999 my young grass hopper! :boring:

Actually 92.5 started the 7 bolt. So you could get a 92 with a 7 bolt... :p

Anyway... I'm still waiting to find out is it best to use the 2G head on my 6-bolt engine? Would I be better off having my 1G head honed, ported, polished, and surfaced or shaved down a lil for added compression? No one seems to be answering what the BEST route would be. I'm not too sure if I wanna run the 2G head or the 1G head and just need input from people who have spent time building the 4G63 rather than people who say "i read this/that" :( sorry.

It is just really hard to decide which head to use, what type of job to have done on the head, and the same with the intake. 1G, 2G, mixed? *blinks*
 
Either head is fine. You are probably going to get machine work done anyways right? so have them port and then it doesnt really matter which one was better stock. You can get 600HP from either one so just work with what you can find.
 
The 1g head flows more when stock, but the 2g head is a better design. A professionally ported 2g head would be optimal, in my opinion.
 
The 1g head flows more when stock, but the 2g head is a better design. A professionally ported 2g head would be optimal, in my opinion.

If I use the 2G head do I need to use the 2G intake (if i dont buy a sheetmetal one) and which TB should I use? I also am wondering if I use the 2G head... does that mean I dont have to worry about modifying the CAS and wiring? If so I'll just take the 2G head in and have it ported, polished, and order the springs that are required for the 272/280 cams.
 
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