The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Tire/suspension check: is this bad?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

AlphaAssault

15+ Year Contributor
480
1
Sep 5, 2007
Tyler, Texas
I jacked up my car and did a few checks on my front left tire, and heres what the results were:

Hands at 12 and 6 o'clock, pusing in and pulling out there was about 1/8 inch play in and out, accompanied by a slight squeak like rubber-on-rubber.

Hands at 9 and 3 o'clock, pushing in and pulling out there was about 1/4 inch play, accompanied by the same rubber-on-rubber squeaking.

Finally, i was able to spin the tire by hand, and it spun more or less freely. now that i think about it, the car was in neutral, so this might not be a big deal, but i felt like mentioning it anyway.

So, seeing as how I have never really messed with suspension before, are these acceptable amounts of play, or is there something fishy going on here?
 
+1 on the wheel bearing although if they as as bad as the play indicates that they are then you should hear them when you get up to about 40 - 50 mph
 
The wheel bearing is the right to left (9 and 3 o'clock) test, correct? if not, how do i check my wheel bearings? What are some other ways to tell if my wheel-bearing is going? and the up and down tests for ball-joint condition, right? 150xxx miles, and if memory serves, only the driver's side wheels were off the ground, to answer silver bullit's question.
 
Ive got to make a 300 mile trip back home this weekend. from the info given, is any of this serious enough to warrant a fix before i leave? all my tools are at home, so i would prefer to swap out everything there.
 
12 and 6 checks your wheel bearings
3 and 9 checks your tie rods (and wheel bearings)

The wheels have to be suspended for a true test.

After replacing the tie rod end(s) you need an alignment.
After replacing the wheel bearings (relatively big job requiring special tools) you should get an alignment but not absolutely necessary.

Without actually seeing the amount of play I don't believe any of us can suggest whether or not you drive the car. Run it by a couple alignment shops and get their professional opinion.

This is all assuming you have good hub-centric wheels that are torqued correctly and not significantly bent.
 
try to get someone to help you and have them wiggle the wheel at both positions while you look at the balljoint and tie rod ends and see where the play is coming from. if its as bad as you describe you should be able to see them moving side to side if they are bad.
 
I took the car for a drive yesterday and noticed 2 things: firstly is that the steering wheel wobbles any time i get over 65mph. however, if i keep driving at 65+ mph, the wobble goes away after a few minutes and everything is smooth again. i believe an alignment would fix this problem, because I had am axle replaced but never had the car aligned. Secondly, i will sometimes hear a noise that can be described as worn brake pads, only not as loud. it might actually BE the brake pads, but there is no pattern to the noise, and it doesnt sound when i actually brake.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top