Time for a rebuild...had a couple questions

[lowandsleekDSM]

Hey everyone,
Well its time for my to join the "im rebuilding my engine" crowd. I`m rebuilding my 2g 7-bolt. I found bad piston rings in the number 1 cylinder during a leakdown test about 2 weeks ago so i figured it was time but the engine has 110,000 miles on it, so that has me alittle concerned but i do have a few quiestions while i`m doing the rebuild. Now my first question when i get the machining done to the block (if it needs to be bored out at all due to the bad rings) and when i get new bearings for the crank (the crank will possibly be new anyways) will i experience crank walk? I havent experienced crank walk yet on my motor (i know i just jinxed myself). And also....i have been reading about running 8.3:1 pistons and seeing that that compression is the sweet spot right? Im doing more of a mostly stock build with little upgrades here and there:

projected parts list:

all necessary machining to the head and decking the head
8.3:1 wiseco pistons
all necessary stock gaskets and bearings
possibly a new crank
stock rods
arp bolts for the head and turbo (more may come later)
cometic head gasket
Brian Crower 272`s
Brian Crower springs and retainers
possibly stock valves and seals
evo3 16G (ported and biger wastegate flapper)
evo3 exhaust mani
manual boost controller
fuel upgrades
safc
550`s
new timing belt parts and Greddy kevlar timing belt
and whatever else comes to mind while i`m rebuilding
Now...should there be ANYTHING else i do? anything else i`m missing...i dont wanna go to crazy on this build..just to get a nice quick street engine
Any advice is truely welcomed....im somewhat a newbie at building an engine...i have a chiltons manual and ive been reading a lot on here also

 

[silver bullit]

Crank walk has to do with the thrust washers in the crank failing prematurely but, other than that what else is your questions?

 

[Black95awd]

If you are looking to make anything over 300HP I wold replace the stock 2g rods. Also I wouldnt bother with a new crank, if it aint broke dont fix it.

 

[cruisintalonawd]

aggreed with th crank the crank will last up to 600HP I've been told..that is if you keep it all lubed up

 

[spooled_u_1st]

I would suggest using SCAT rods. They aren't expensive and that way your engine build would be full.

 

[Black95awd]

aggreed with th crank the crank will last up to 600HP I've been told..that is if you keep it all lubed up

The crank is good well over that, Nate (TPG Tuning) is making almost 900 with a stock crank

 

[Black95awd]

I would suggest using SCAT rods. They aren't expensive and that way your engine build would be full.

Identical to Eagle, and I think Eagles are cheaper. Engine pro is cheaper yet, and still the same factory...... I have been shushing a lot today...

 

[hedrick]

You wont know about the machining or crankwalk until you open up your engine. If your ring lands are ok and you didnt do internal damage to the cylinder walls you will probably just need a hone. With the crankwalk if you find endplay in the crank, then new bearings will fix the problem for about 10k miles. Crankwalk sucks and if you have it I would switch to a 6bolt. Looking at the part list you have it I would recommend doing a 6bolt build. Not many people build 7bolts. Also if your going to have all that work done with all the listed parts you will be looking around ~$4000

 

[lowandsleekDSM]

well to point out..i never had crank walk in thie engine...thats why im kinda sticking with this engine...i mean the fuel upgrades...might come after i just get the egine working....this is a semi long term project since i have a second car. i still have to pull the engine out but cant due to some sh*ty weather here in florida